Hmm, I was hoping they were something that would work for my setup and I woulda' bought em from you maybe. I just need more power, and at a 1 or 4 ohm.

 

I am still doing the numbers in my head to see if I can use one or both of them. I need 6 channels of power and would like to get 500-600 watts for a sub. I am thinking about taking out one of the 2050's and putting in a 3.0x. I could then run the 5150 in 3 channel mode. Bridged to the front comps and run the single channel to the center channel. Run the rears off the other 2050 and run a sub off the 3.0x. Finding room for it is the problem.

 

Now, I have all kinds of things jumping in my head. Bryan, how much mounting depth do you think is max with a bottom firing sub with the seat lift kit using 3/4" MDF? I am wondering if I could get my Arc 12" sub to fit. It is only 6" deep. It takes .9 sealed or 1.3 ported. That ported sounds interesting. Have it down firing with the port firing forward. But, their enclosure would take a 3" diameter port 12" long to be tuned at 30Hz. Do you think bottom firing is doable with the seat lift?

 

IIRC, when I was drawing up the plans for a downfiring 12", there's about 6.75" - 7.25" (I can't remember exactly) of mounting depth. I'm at work and don't have my sketches. Also, that is with about 3" of clearance from the baffle to the floor and using 3/4" MDF. You might be able to get some more mounting depth if you don't need 3" of clearance. You should be able to get your box volume too...I can't remember what that came out to though.

Another thing...this isn't tried and true. I never built the box, so I'm not sure if my dimensions would work.

If I have some spare time here at work this week, I might draw it up again.

 

I am going to stop by the body shop this week and pull the sub out of the Mustang. I thought it was deeper than 6" but, that is what Arc's site is saying. I downloaded their spec sheet and I could actually get away with only a .65 box for that sub. Although, that seems way too small and would require more power. I am thinking of trying the sealed box around .9 or so.

I tried calling LMI and got no answer. Did you order your kit online or by phone? I hate not being able to talk to someone to make sure how long before they can ship it out. That is going to be my first step is getting the lift kit. Until I do that, I have to rely on you for my info

I did find out that right now, I am only putting 110 watts to my Arc 10" D2 sub. I thought the 5150's sub channel was 200 @ 2 or 4 ohm but, it is not. It is amazing the bass I get with only 110 watts. With the 12", I could get the 200 @ 2ohm. 200 is not much but, might be enough for me. Around a 3db increase, more cone area, and if I could go ported, another 3-5db.

 

Sounds like a plan! Just remember, I'm at work and don't have my truck with me. So, everything is by memory...which is scary, knowing me. LOL But, I will help you as much as possible.

I think I just ordered the seat lift through their website. IIRC, I got a confirmation email that it was shipped the next day. Another fair warning...not all the brackets line up right. You will have to play with it and maybe add a couple of washers here and there. I'm not the only one with this problem...I have a plethra of members emailing me for advice and help, and one of them recently was claiming to have the same problem (let me take this moment if any of you guys are reading this and I haven't emailed you back yet...be patient and I will, promise ). Just remember my advice to put it all in loosely and tighten up as you go.

 

And please do not think I do not appreciate it. I am extremely grateful.

I just got off LMI's website and placed an order. Hopefully, it will get here this week. I am pretty excited about the idea of fitting the 12" under the seat. 10" subs are great but, the impact of a properly installed 12" is awesome. The only 10" I have been able to come close to the SQ of the IDMAX I used to have is a 10" Diamond TDX in a ported enclosure in my Acura TL. I ran it at 1 ohm with 1,000 watts from a Memphis Belle and it was outstanding. Gave the IDMAX a run for its money. The Arc and ID subs do not have quite that much in terms of "powerful impact", but they just sound great.

 

Congrats on the LMI seat lift. Remember what I said about it though.

I hear you about nothing like the sound of a 12". I think I might try to fit a couple of 12W6v2's in a downing firing box. I can't fit a sub with a high Xmax and deep mounting depth too. Would love for IDMAX12's or 12W7's down there, but those wont work unless I do the box/seat thing.

Which Arc do you have? I'm also gonna look into DLS Iridium and Nobelium. Those in a 12" have a mounting depth of 5.5" , Xmax of 14mm. Even maybe a RL-p, but to get it to fit I'll loose clearance and it needs alot, it has 24.2mm and mounting depth of 6.5", that would be pushing it. I also thought they are more of a SPL sub than SQ.

 

RL-p's should only be run ported, or atleast its a waste if you don't. I have been debating selling the avalanche for when the rl-p's are back in stock. Now if only I had the skills to rip everything behind the seats out (reg cab) and build a decent looking box/mini wall/anything.

Brypink---If you still have the 2-ohm zapco, then get a pair of DIYMAS, now were talking about small sealed boxes.

 

Bryan, I have the 12" Arc series. It is dual 4 ohm coils. I also got a call from LMI tonight. He said that he was going to run another batch of seat lifts tomorrow and mine should ship out tomorrow. From Montanta, I bet it will be next week but, that is fine.

 

Dcon, where did you get that Arc 12d4?

I am looking everywhere for one and can't seem to find one, at least for a decent price.

One guy near me carries them, but wants 199.99 for one of them.

Is your's the solid black cone 12D4?

I want one bad.

Rob

 

Rl-p's dont need to be ported. Its not a waste to run it sealed either. Who told you that?

Bry, the Rl-p's are like a SQL sub. They can get decently loud and have some pretty good SQ too. I wouldnt call it an SPL sub.
You should buy those Stereo Integrity BM's on CA.com, then tell me what they are like And if they are nice sell them to me. lol. They look interesting. I though about buying them for the hell of it, maybe wait till they come out and are out for awhile and see what people say though.

Dcon, your electrical system has to hate you. Lol. Have you done any upgrades to yours? And how is it taking all the draw from the amps?

 

Rob,

I found this for you: http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showt...hreadid=129436


The guys name is Erik. Good guy. I bought 2 Arc amps from him last month. Great price. They may be B-stock but, basically brand new refurbs if they are.

 

Bartak, I have not done anything to the electrical system. But, right now, even with the 3 amps I am using, I am only running a rated 690 watts. Breaks down like this:

Front Comps 150 x 2
Center 180 x 1
Rears 50 x 2
Sub 110 x 1


And if I can get away with running the sub channel at 2 ohm if will bump it to only 800 watts. All on 4 awg cable. I have not checked voltage when it is cranked up pretty good but, I have not had any issues with dimming lights or anything. I would think the Ford system should be more stout than my old 2001 Acura TL and I had 1,300 watts running on it with no upgrades to the electrical. Although, when I got crazy with it, the lights would dim. I try to stay under 1,000 watts. I figure that would be the cutoff for running into problems.

Of course, if I were to put the Zapco in there running 600 watts to a sub. The number would change to around 1,200. Not really what I want to do.

 

See, that's my problem w/ the RL-p...everyone says "pretty good" or "decent" SQ...I hardly hear anyone say "awesome" or "the best" SQ like the 12W6v2, IDMAX12, 12" MAG, 12W7 (the lesser of the 4). I know everyone's opinion is different, but I've heard all of them and ran a couple of them myself. I've heard a RL-i 10, but not a RL-p 12 yet. To me the RL-i sounded average, like any other decent sub. Space is limiting me though.

As far as only running the RL-p in a ported box...I have to disagree on that too. It all depends on what you want. The response curve looked pretty flat for a sealed box. This is what I enjoy in a sub...but, it has to do it accurately and get loud doing it. So, a sealed box is the ONLY way I go, I'll never have a ported box again.

Bart, I think I will pass on those proto types. LOL I'd rather wait and get a second run.

BTW, I have the 4 ohm (dB drag modded) version 9.0