I think its just ashame to lower a truck especially a 4X4

 

i think its ashame to put bull bar and lift truck with big tires

 

To each their own.....

 

Took the old 2011 FX4 for a bath today, oh how I loath how spring-time...

 

New Harley wheels! Looking good!

 

3/5 djm drop
Calmax Control Arms up front
rear axle flip kit and “shorty shackles
upgraded the rear shocks to Calmax SuperShox
what yall think?

 

Gotta be on top of it several times a week to keep in clean with these roads in Edmonton right now, its terrible

 

Good Looking truck! What the size are the wheels and tires?

 

Looks like 26"s. More pics of that hood man, truck looks good.

 

 

^^^And, the caption is?

I hate to say it, but even after reading all this, I've still got a question.
See sig for truck in question.

I only want/need a small drop. (Hauling the boat out at our rather steep ramp and better highway mileage on road trips)
If I remove the rear blocks, will the front torsion bars have enough adjustment to make the front match the back,
or even go a little lower to attain the original F/R rake angle?

This is what I've gathered from this thread:
1) REAR: Remove rear blocks: (from what I see they are ~2")
---a. Need shorter U-Bolts.
---b. Need shorter 2WD shocks.
Is it OK for the bumpstops to bottom out on the rear end housing versus the "pad" that's on the block currently?

2) FRONT: Adjust torsion bars as low as they will go. (Here's where the big questions are)
---a. Do I need shorter shocks or will the existing (stock) work?
---b. Do I need to modify the bumpstops?
When sitting on level ground, there's barely over an inch of distance of travel till they bottom out.
So, if I actually get it to drop an inch in the front, will it be sitting on the bumpstops?
Or, am I totally off and I need to forget about the torsion bars and get drop spindles?
Currently, the torsion bar keys are in the middle of their travel range.

Thanks for the help!

 

For the rear you can get away with just getting 2wd u-bolts and you will be fine. You don't have to get 2wd shocks, only if you absolutely want to, I ran 4wd shocks for a while until they wore out. With the blocks removed, you shouldn't be close at all to the bumpstop unless you're hauling like over 2500lbs in the bed of the truck. And the bumpstops are perfectly fine hitting the rear end, they are there for that reason exactly.

The front is pretty much just like the rear, I ran 4wd shocks up front for the longest time and I still do, since we have the nipple and bolt combo for shocks. With the stock torsion keys, you should be able to achieve the height of a 2wd truck and not be on the bumpstops.

Hopefully that helps some!

 

Hopefully that helps some!
That helps a lot.
That's about as painless (and inexpensive) as it gets for a mild drop.

Since this is a 4.6L-5spd, I'll probably not be hauling much cross-country as it is, especially if I'm already towing the 2,500lb boat.
I'd like to have a small pop-up camper but I would/should have got a 3/4 ton if I planned on hauling that much.

 

Word of caution for anyone with dual exhaust. Without the stoppers and depending on how your dual exhaust is routed up over the pumpkin, the exhaust pipe my burn off the Antilock brake sensor... mine did. I'll be installing airbags as a precaution before towing my 30 foot Travel Trailer this year. I also load the bed with a dirt bike, generator and gear so I'm pretty heavy.

 

I have a question: When flipping/swapping torsions, does that limit you to a super low drop, or can you crank it back up to a 2-3" drop?