i do have the discs now. i'm glad to hear it's a bolt-in. so the only left to worry about is the abs controller, right? will that just plug in?

thaks for the tip re the driveshaft; i'm ok with that - i've had it done a couple of times on other rigs, but not lately... is there any reason to think it would be complex?
i remember watching my motor sergeant and the recovery team chief make one shaft out of two once... in the field, in the dark, in the rain... those guys were geniuses! oh, neither shaft they started with was meant for the end product.

 

you ain't kidding - so far, i think everything i've bought i found there. i even found a used ten meter radio for 275, but i broke the bank already this month.

 

the abs will go in the same place on the 9.75 i highly doubt Ford would change the abs plug from the 8.8 to 9.75. Just make sure to get on of the same year range. 97-03.

 

OK guys -

I've spent far too much time going through this thread editing out pointless "jabs" and "put-downs" and deleting posts that were nothing more than pointless pot-stirring just to get someone all riled up.

Knock it off! Stick to the OP's question. DO NOT critique his premise. If you don't agree with it, and can't see past that, just don't post! This goes for everyone. You'll be hearing from me personally if you ignore this.

Some of you seem to be enjoying the process of "designing" a survival vehicle. Stick to that. If you want to argue over something like 2WD vs 4WD, that's fine, just keep it civil!

There's some good advice in this thread that applies to any "off road" situation. I'd like to keep it open for even more good advice.

Thanks in advance.

- Jack

 

You're welcome. and thank you!

now, as i was saying...

what all this boils down to; or, another way of looking at this might be:

with as little money as possible, how far can a street legal 2WD go? that is, how much better than OEM can it's performance be enhanced with the least amount of money? there's the obvious - lighten the load, gotts mod, etc. what else?

how's this for starters: i haven't researched prices for this yet, but it seems to me a stronger suspension is in order - not just a higher capacity payload, but basic pieces - mounts, joints, bushings, etc. that won't break off because i hit a bump too fast, or drove off a stream bank i didn't see in the dark. apparently it doesn't ake much to destroy a 'street' suspension. i'd rather avoid that. somebody or other - OffRoad magazine, maybe - actually did a piece on this years ago, with a stock blazer. It was ugly, and surprising how little it took to trash that puppy.
i'll try to post in a day or so with the pieces i think should be replaced, what with, how much, where from. i'm thinking much of this could be done in the driveway, followed by a slow trip to an alignment shop... is this possible?

 

I honestly think a good, old, surplus Army Jeep would be the best choice. Those things could go almost anywhere and they could be maintained in the field with a bare minimum of equipment and tools.

I know this is not what you were trying to "design", but I believe it's the best "starting platform".

- Jack

 

they certainly had their day; and one could do worse. i was responsible for maintaining about 15 of them for almost two years and i have mixed feelings about them. out of the 15, none was ever in perfect running condition, but i can't remember more than a couple of times when one just wouldn't go, and even then it was always an easy fix. the one problem they couldn't overcome was the lack of any real payload capability, though that didn't stop us from trying. the air force takes the record, though for consistent overloading of that old jeep - my Air Controller had enough radios to break the bank, and those jeeps were in the worst shape of all. being overloaded didn't stop them from going, they just made horrible grinding noises and went on!
i can't remember but one motor going out - we threw a rod in one, once. not bad for 15 lunatics driving somebody else's car, huh?

 

OSince the OP has stated that weight is a prime concern he needs to stay as far AWAY from Line-x and Rhino et al as possible!! They are great products, I think Line-x is superior, but they are HEAVY!!

One of our FFs Line-Xed his entire jeep, inside and out, you can hardly lift his hood! Just my $.02

And I'm sorry but I only read 2/3 through this but you definitely need firearms in this vehicle.
A .22 rifle for small game.
A mid to heavy caliber rifle for long range offense/defense.
A shotgun for defense.
A pistol for last ditch defense and/or to fight your way to a long arm.
More ammo than you would think necessary for each firearm, especially considering your scenario. You have to remember that you may very likely have to defend yourself/vehicle from people who have not bothered to prepare.

Your Louisville Slugger would be wholly inadequate, sorry. : )


ETA: I see now I just missed the firearms posts. Sorry, but reading this thread on my Droid was getting tedious!

 

Just so you'll know, Joe. I was an ALO for part of my Air Force career. I spent quite a few hours in those overloaded Jeeps with the radio pallet in the back - pulling a generator too. I was thinking you'd probably pull a small trailer.

- Jack

 

Not many have suggested specific lighting solutions. You can listen to guys who like Hella, KC, Piaa et al but IMO your best bang for buck is aircraft landing lights (ACLs). I wanted better lighting because I got tired of killing more deer out of season than I do in season!

You can buy rubber Par 36 light housings for around $13 each (currently @ Summit Racing) These are going to come with a poor performing flood or spot bulb. Then buy some GE ACLs, I think mine were #4509 I'd have to check, for about $10 each. You're looking at $50 total, maybe less if you search around for better deals. I'm totally with you on getting more for less!

The ACLs are designed to throw a long wide beam. Think of a wide spot beam NOT a fog pattern. I had them mounted on my '99 just haven't gotten around to putting on my '05 because this truck doesn't have a grill guard/aftermarket bumper... yet. With the lights set up for the beams to barely overlap in the center they would completely illuminate the road, improved shoulder & ROW (about 120') on both sides about 700' in front of the truck, maybe farther. If you tied them to your high beams with a relay they'd be awesome! I had 'em on a separate switch & it made things a bit hectic when you got surprised by oncoming traffic. :o

It's hard to properly describe what I'm trying to get across. The 'beam/pattern' is what was illuminating ROW to ROW. The excess 'spill' light would light up the properties past the fencelines. Does that make sense. The flashlight forum I frequent would understand, I'm not sure how much 'non-light geeks' get it.

 

I know that you can find hella's for $30 to $50 per set on ebay. don't forget auxillary backup lights. Mine have saved me a few times while in the mountains. You should look into ADVENTURE TRAILERS, they have some awsome A/T trailers that can haul whatever you need and they have a tent built into the top of them.

 

Those trailers ARE amazing, aren't they? You can get them with the same tires that are on your vehicle, which reduces the number of spares you need (or gives you an extra spare, depending on how you see it). They're VERY lightweight, and can be put just about anywhere, by hand if necessary.

- Jack

 

I just googled those A/T's. What a neat looking rig

 

dude! i was the opfor air director at the ntc for over a year! bro!
that was a cool job - because nobody at the ntc did anything the "right" way, i got to be air director for everything... if we tasked OA37's as red air, they were mine! or 16's, or spectre, or whatever!
obtw, i actually owned my own "hinds"....

actually, i probably shouldn't follow the oa37's with an exclamation point... things kept falling off of them...


PPS i have a 4x8 trailer. actaully, i don't have it, it's been stolen, but i know where it is...

 

Here's what i'm looking at for a lift -
3 or 4" with front spindles and AAL, possibly with some fender trimming to fit 33 or 34" tires on stock rims - 16" for the 33s, and i think it's 17" wheels for the 34" tires.

comments?

PS somebody mentioned how heavy Line-x, et al, are in response to somebody else's suggestion to line-x the entire truck! i had no idea!

PPS - re the request for pictures - at the mo, there's nothing to show but a stock F150 with a camper. as soon as it's out of the shop (initial purchase warranty work, no big deal), i'm putting WAAG steps on it and if the guy with the Rough Country push bar on craigslist will ever respond, that too. then i'll take a picture for ya and put it on here.