It occurs to me I left out a minor detail that might make a difference in everyone's thinking about their suggestions... in advance, sorry about that!:o

Anyway, in the OP, I mentioned I had to make a trip of 200 miles. I should have said I know that ground. I know it won't be real steep, it won't be real wet, and it won't be real rocky. For that matter, I own the ground at the end. It is rocky, but not impassable - we keep a very old trashed out 2WD half ton Chevy out there and get anywhere we want to go. It will not go straight over the ravines; the quads do that when we want to, but there's lots of not too far "drive arounds" - in short, the cheesy (cheap) half ton gets anywhere the quads do, it just takes a little longer.
That part, I’ve got covered. And that's the part this design is aimed at. I have no intention of covering all possible terrain, just the ground between here and my hidey-hole.

The second trip I might have to make is over a thousand miles, to pick up a family member living that far away. Obviously, in a thousand miles, you will find every kind of terrain. This design won't do that, and I’m not working on a design for that at the moment. Realistically, that might be a long walk. It’ll take longer, but I know I can cover that ground on foot.

 

Have you thought about a Camper shell type thing? You could keep most survival gear inside and all the shovels etc on the outside by making brackets for them or have a bigger roof rack and most importantly you would have shelter! That with a suspension lift would make it a bit top heavy so maybe 4 inches lift max with some good 33 tires front and rear bumpers with a winch and like said above, Lights!

 

This is my vote. Duplicate this and you are golden.

 

have you seen the F550 Earthroamer builds? i think it's earthroamer.com - awesome truck!

 

i just bought a used lear camper. i have my eyes on a great deal on a 1 ton capacity roof rack that fits around the camper, but i've maxed out the budget for the time being. i might miss out on this particular deal, but sooner or later...

so far, i got the camper, a packrat tool box/drawer, and side steps from WAAG. with any luck, i'll get the steps (rails) mounted today; and finally get the gotts mod done.
FYI re the budget - all three of those cost me 1135.00 used (plus 380 for the line-x, obviously not used). the camper looks new, and the rails were still in the original box - the mounting kit hasn't even been opened!.

 

the good deal on the rack is at http://www.autoanything.com/truck-ra...0A3091255.aspx

 

i read once that blocks, or spacers, can cause problems because they change the torque loading of the springs/leafs. does anyone have any experience with this?

 

as far as putting blocks under your leaf springs it doesnt change the load, but will change the torque thats applied to the rear end.

When you put a big block in it provides leverage, this leverage is known as axle wrap. This can be cured with traction bars.

Another thing id personally recommed a shackle flip BUT this will decrease the load capacity and cause axle wrap.

Add-a-leafs will help lift and increase load, but remeber the 8.8 under your truck can only handle so much. so just cause the suspension can handle it doesnt mean the axle will. keep that in mind.

 

thanks, i'd completely forgotten about the axle. i'm thinking more and more about swapping out to a 9.75. the last time i did this with a buddy for a mudder we were working on, we didn't have the same concerns i have now. is that swap doable while keeping the same wheels, and the abs, brake setup, etc. will there be any controller problems?
i guess i should say - i see these as potential 'side effects', what might workarounds be?

 

the 8.8 to 9.75 should be a complete bolt in.

if you have drum brakes stay with an axle with drum brakes, cause there will be more modifications needed to the braking system to run disc brakes. Disc brakes are a nice option but if you are tryin to spend as little as possible theres alot more id spend my money on them rear discs

theres alot of variable here but you MIGHT have to shorten the driveshaft

 

I have gotten a lot of useful random brackets and roof racks and off road accessories at swap meets and on craiglslist. No need to buy new if you can find whatever your looking for in good shape. There is always a deal out there waiting to be made.

D

 

AND lets see some pics man! Don't keep us waiting like this!

 

Check out movies like death race and i am legend for ideas for ur truck. Good luck. Can't wait to see some pics!

 

2X what trimble said about the blocks. Basic statics pretty much. You're creating a farther distance between your force (from driveshaft) and your object (leaf springs). It's the same concept for why you don't try and loosen a bolt with your hand all the way against the socket on the wrench...you hold the wrench at the end (a distance) where it's easier to create a greater torque with less force.

When you add blocks, it's easier to create the axle wrap because less force is needed to create a greater torque on the axle itself...hence why I want to get rid of my blocks so bad! Hope that helps!

 

i thought i'd read something along those lines. that's why i'm researching lifts and suspension mods. even a bad lift is expensive!
thanks, guys!


re the request for pics - don't really have much to show yet. see my profile for some representative pics of old rides, and, when the sun comes up, i'll take a pic of my bone stock F150 with a camper shell and post it...

as soon as i get something nice to show, i'll post some pics. or, if i really wreck it spectacularly, i'll show that too!