Two wheel drive worked for many years before four wheel drive. It is all in how you and where one drives. Good luck I want pic's of the progress.

 

couldn't leave just yet, ChrisT's last comment is gold: "3)Transmission- Spare parts for the M5OD tranny: We've all read about the weak input shaft of the M5OD, so I'd carry some spare parts for repair in the event of failure."

no, we haven't all read!!! that's exactly why i'm here, to learn stuff like this. Thanks! i did not know about that particular problem. i will obviously have to plan for it... between carrying parts to fix a broken tranny and a trans swap, i'm leaning strongly to the trans swap. i have (once) swapped a powerglide for a 3 speed, that seemed to go well.

again, huge thanks!
joe

 

I had a long post typed out, but decided to shorten it up.




Skip the idea of 2wd. You really need to rethink that idea. Good driving in 2wd will get you a long ways, but more often than not 4x4 will actually get you through it. 4x4 is no more of a weak point than a 2wd truck.


Skip the idea of anything electronically controlled. The old carbed engines are dirt cheap (plus parts are VERY plentiful and also dirt cheap), and if they break its easily fixed along side the road. When your computer fails, you're stuck.


Keep the 5spd, but not the M5OD you've got in there now. They're notoriously weak. A ZF5 is pretty much bullet proof.


For the amount of gear you're wanting to tote around a long box truck, and one with a heavier frame than the F150 is going to be needed. Your frame will need alot of work (boxing) to take the kind of abuse you're talking about.


Take a look at some of the rock crawlers out there. They put alot of the principles into play that you're looking at. The biggest difference is that they don't carry the amount of gear you're talking about. Most everything they build is to allow them to beat on the truck in much harder conditions than you're looking at without breakage.

 

LOL! Rockwells? 54" tires?

Unless you plan on mudding in a bottomless pit, I'd spend less money on the build up of your truck and more money on actual "preparedness"... You can survive without Rockwells and 54" tires... You can't survive/live without water, food, shelter, and arms (most likely).

This is kind of funny. This topic gets brought up quite a bit on the gun forums I'm on. This and "If zombies roamed the Earth tomorrow..." or "Preparing for zombies".

I'd buy whatever truck you can afford, maintain it very well, install a larger or auxillary fuel cell, jerry cans, BOB, full 1st aid kit, put on the largest M/T's that will fit stock, lock it front and rear, and install full length skid plates. I'd also have a winch mounted via reciever for front and rear extraction. And probably a little beefier bumper and topper (you might be hauling things/people). That'd about be it. I'd spend the rest of my survival plans/funds on actually making it...

 

A PA system to go with your CB radio. A swing away tire gate so you can carry a full size spare if you decide to go with a bigger tire. Possibly some type of window armor so people that weren't as prepared as you can't break in. Nothing bullet/bomb proof, just enough to stop a fist or bat. Maybe some chicken wire on the inside of the window anchored somewhere in the door and at the top. I'll think of some other stuff at work tomorrow.

 

what's a BOB? and please, send a link to those gun forums you mentioned. if you need it, i can give lots of zombie advice - none surviving around here! (hint: no teeth = no bite. can you say "Louisville slugger"?)
i do plan on using a winch mount as you suggested. i saw that somewhere once and i thought it a great idea.
good suggestion on the window armor... i've been thinking about that, going back and forth on it.
thanks guys!

 

Do people seriously believe in zombies? I had a battle buddy in iraq that believed in zombies and had this book called how to survive a zombie attack or something. Funny thing was on the back under genre it said comedy. He thought it was real.

 

man, some people will believe anything. i give you our last election. and all of europe. plus, every successful recruiting sergeant and used car salesman.
don't knock it, i intend to make my fortune writing about zombie strategy. watch this space!

 

Despite the completely ridiculous question, I am going to give you an answer. You need something small and agile. Get a Jeep or a Toyota and build it right.

 

at this whole thread!

...but here's my input if you're wanting a tougher truck. I'd say line-x the entire body, put the fabtech 7.5" lift kit on it, put some 35's and be done. Its not like its gonna be driving through a war zone or anything

 

Man, I've been keeping up with this thing for a while, and only had one thing to say. However, I think I've thought of my proper input. I have a 99 2WD with the 7.5" Fabtech lift kit and 35" tires. Unless youre planning on putting a locker in the differential, that truck will not last very long off road..UNLESS youre amazing at driving a 2WD in those conditions. My truck desperately needs a locker when I go offroad..which is not that often. Also, the 4.2 is NOT a good engine in my opnion to be dealing with. I'm sure I'll get railed from other people about bashing the 4.2L, but I dont not think it's a good engine. My reasoning is that my brother has a 97 with the 4.2L and offroads any chance he gets. His truck spends more time at the transmission shop than it does on the road too. It seems like there is something wrong every other week. And at 75K miles, he needed an motor rebuild and at 110K miles he needed a transmission rebuild. That is mo opnion for the current truck youre wanting to use.

However, a possible solution to this would be to sell the truck you have now and buy something much older that is carb. I'm sure you would not have a issue selling that truck, espcially with 60,000 miles on it. Search any local classified listings or craigslist for your area. People are always selling good project older vehicles to work on. An older ford or chevy would definitely give you a solid truck to rely on and a solid base to start with. Also, parts are much cheaper and easier to find with an older truck like that.

However, if you honestly want to stick with your current truck. This is my opinion...

1. 7.5" Fabtech lift kit..(instead of blocks in the rear, buy 5" leaf packs instead)
2. 35" TSL Super Swampers..definitely also a spare
3. Steel Rims with beadlocks
4. 4:56 gears with a selectable locker
5. Skid plate to protect the front suspension
6. Steering stablizer
7. Snorkel for your truck
8. Gotts air mod intake
9. Definitely a nice toolbox for your bed with roofrack.
10. Emergency kit (Waterproof duffel bag that can be carried in emergency situation containing essential for quick mobility)
11. CB radio
12. Catback exhaust.
13. Longtube headers
14. Brush guard
15. On board air compressor and tank (I would mount underneath the toolbox to protect it.
16. Some type of internal rollover cage(Just some type of reinforcement on cab)
17. Double Optima Yellow top batteries with stronger cable terminals

That's all I can think of for now...

 

*Disclaimer* I'm not here to question your motives, poke fun at your ideas or somehow belittle you for wanting to be prepared for adversity.

With that out of the way, feel free to read my post.

Working with the truck that you have, if for no other reason than "it's what you have", here are some things I would consider:

Powertrain:
Keep the low mileage 4.2L stock. Our '98 4.2L truck was still running strong at 210k miles when we sold it. It was never a rocket ship, but that isn't of great concern in the situation you are describing. I don't have any experience with the manual transmission in that truck, but like most manual transmissions I can only imagine it is prone to damage as much from user error as mechanical failure. If you are competent in driving, it will probably hold up just fine.

Drivetrain:
If you are going to be carrying a lot of weight in the bed, upgrading to a 9.75" axle out of a 5.4L equipped truck might be a good idea; but if your cargo load is within the tolerance of the 8.8" axle, then don't even bother with the swap. If money allows, you can consider re-gearing the axle with something in the 4.10 range and adding a limited slip differential or selectable locker.

Suspension:
I don't know what options are out there for your body style F150. Our '98 was completely stock, so I am of no assistance here.

Brakes:
Upgrading the brake pads to something like Hawk HPS pads is a good idea. They will create more dust than the OEM pads, but in turn will provide stronger braking power and are less prone to brake fade. Hawk HPS pads work well over a wide range of temperatures and are not much more money than other pads. Stainless steel brake lines are also a good idea, and probably will need to be done at the time you lift your truck.

As for all of the other things, I would say to keep asking around and upgrade as you see fit. I would probably carry my extra fuel in 5 gallon Jeep cans (I know they are not called that, but I call them that). By carrying the fuel in those 5 gallon containers, you can remove them from your truck and save yourself from carrying around the extra weight of a larger tank or fuel cell in the days leading up to the collapse. Basic recovery equipment is good to have, and it sounds like you have a good feel for that stuff.

My thoughts on non-truck stuff:
1). Prepare (as best you can) a plan for you and your family. If you can, practice certain drills and have quizzes to make sure everybody remembers their part and is on the same page as you.


2). Go camping as frequently as you can. This is not only fun, but can help you make a list of supplies you need as a family (or individual) and keeps your basic survival skills sharp.

3). Have you seen Zombieland? Rule #1 is cardio! I'm not referencing zombies because I am poking fun at you; rather, it is my opinion that being fit and healthy are keys to surviving in bad situations. If your vehicle did break down, or you were otherwise forced to hike long distances it is nice to know that your most basic survival tool is up to the challenge.

 

I found this funny. Is Carmax going to accept your warranty when the world crashes and burns.

Hate to tell you but you are going to be out of fuel before you even ruin your truck. So just leave it stock, Mad Max.

 

Some of you guys are geniuses, and I’m getting farther behind. I’ve taken to just copying entire posts and keeping them in a separate file.
On the other hand....


I will answer one objection I’ve seen more than once - the warranty. Actually, I'm not going to answer it, I’m going to make you think.

Try, real, real, hard, to imagine why a warranty, or at least the availability of one, could make a difference in this design. Go on - it's called thinking; I know you haven't heard of it much, but give it a shot.

Hint: warranty's have time limits! Heck, never mind the hint, just take a look at bullet #1 in the quote you included. I’m assuming you can read; you got this far. How’s your reading comprehension?

Sheesh…. Now we can see how nobama got elected…

 

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE dont finish that line, cause then you are saying you are thinking about other guys peckers and that would be very homo of you.

Anyway. with the budget you are on.

MAXXIS Buckshot mudders are CHEAP and last awhile i doubt you could find a better deal on tires.

since you dont plan on liftin it much. leave the tires on either stock wheels or wheels with the same specs as stock. so a 16x8 with 4.5" of backspacing would work. You dont need the tires sticking way out, this will cause accelerated wear on steering parts, and hubs.

The 4.2L is easy as hell to work on and maintain, but it would be my first choice. NONE of the modular motors would be a choice.

You asked about making your own diesel, old frier grease will burn in a diesel motor, the new no transfat oil is better because it doesnt get all hard when it cools. Every restaraunt should have this type now, by law. Diesel motors are nice because they are low maitnance, plenty of torque and if you get the right one no computer. My 4bt has a th400 on it but im removing that for a built 700r4, the 700r4 is auto but with NO electronics. Id still recommend a manual in this case though.

THe 2wd is a weak point, but since your staying on the road as much as possible it wont matter much.

The tools you need are obvious.

Id 100% sure upgrade the rear to a GM14 bolt, yes you will have to different bolt patterns but stock 14bolts are STONG, alot stronger than the 8.8 or 9.75. 4.56 gears would be a nice touch but theres othe options with the 14 bolt. you might beable to get some 4.30's which would suit you better.

I think having a pre planned safe place is more important than the vehicle, the vehicle will only take you so far then the rest is backpacking in and you MUST be very picky about what you decide to take on the hike. Too much gear and your loud, tired, and bulky, too little gear and you are setting yourself up for a rough stand out.

Depending on location, sleeping bag is not a must, neither is a tent. You can make a shelter. Water is a must and research the MULTIPLE ways of filtering rain water and be familiar with the steps. Get some protien bars, something high in calories so you dont loose alot of weight, you need to stay healthy. A good knife is a must, fishing string, hooks, and even thread a needles. Remeber you will want to stay busy, once you find some place you can stay ALWAYS keep improving it and always be on your toes. This goes back to having a preplanned area, learn the area know what you can eat and what will make you sick.

If this WAS to happen, id get me and my daughter as far away as humanly possible from everything. No ones gonna go looking for you out in the bush somewhere you buy yourself is not worth their time. Id try to have a friend or two that are detailed about you plan so you have help.

Me personally would rather be alone but with my daughter thats wouldnt be an option.