Project Survival Truck
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: San Antonio Texas
Project Survival Truck
I'm working on a plan to mod my truck to make it ready to get away from what's coming. Your knowledge, experience, thoughts, etc. would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance
joe garza
Project Survival Truck: How To Turn A Used F150 Into A Reliable, Low Maintenance, Getaway Transport To Survive The Coming Economic And Social Collapse.
The requirement is to be able to get away from a society and government gone wild with enough gear, food, etc. to survive the ensuing bloodbath.
And, of course, resources are not unlimited.
Fulfilling the requirement means some off road capability, some load carrying capability, extended range and some independence from a sustainment infrastructure. The vehicle has to be able to operate free of prepared road surfaces, with minimal recourse to a professional dealer and maintenance network, while carrying everything I need to drop off the grid for as long as possible.
In the best case, I have to be able to get a location less than two hundred miles away. In the worst case, I have to be able to move more than a thousand miles, and then return. This plan will focus on getting two hundred miles.
Requirement 1: Free Of Prepared Road Surfaces
1. Ground clearance – tires, lift, leveling, etc.
2. Suspension travel -
3. Traction – gearing, LS/Locker, etc.
4. body armor, skid plates, push bars, etc.
Requirement 2: Load Carrying Capability
1. OEM payload package & HD suspension
2. OEM ClIII Trailer hitch & trailer
3. Camper top
4. Cargo rack
5. Hoist
Requirement 3: Extended Range
1. Economy engine programming
2. Aux fuel tanks
Requirement 4: Reliability
1. Consumer reports ratings
2. Limit deviation from oem specs
3. OEM HD cooling & electrical
4. Reliability improving mods – synthetic oil, etc.
Requirement 5: Limited Resources
1. 2000 F150 <60K <$7850
2. CarMax reputation and warranty ($1449)
3. Used components – Shell @ $410, etc.
i would appreciate any advice, recommendations, etc. the people on this forum have lots more experience in this than i ever will; i'd rather not make my own mistakes if i can learn from someone else's experience. thanks, again, for your time.
joe
joe garza
Project Survival Truck: How To Turn A Used F150 Into A Reliable, Low Maintenance, Getaway Transport To Survive The Coming Economic And Social Collapse.
The requirement is to be able to get away from a society and government gone wild with enough gear, food, etc. to survive the ensuing bloodbath.
And, of course, resources are not unlimited.
Fulfilling the requirement means some off road capability, some load carrying capability, extended range and some independence from a sustainment infrastructure. The vehicle has to be able to operate free of prepared road surfaces, with minimal recourse to a professional dealer and maintenance network, while carrying everything I need to drop off the grid for as long as possible.
In the best case, I have to be able to get a location less than two hundred miles away. In the worst case, I have to be able to move more than a thousand miles, and then return. This plan will focus on getting two hundred miles.
Requirement 1: Free Of Prepared Road Surfaces
1. Ground clearance – tires, lift, leveling, etc.
2. Suspension travel -
3. Traction – gearing, LS/Locker, etc.
4. body armor, skid plates, push bars, etc.
Requirement 2: Load Carrying Capability
1. OEM payload package & HD suspension
2. OEM ClIII Trailer hitch & trailer
3. Camper top
4. Cargo rack
5. Hoist
Requirement 3: Extended Range
1. Economy engine programming
2. Aux fuel tanks
Requirement 4: Reliability
1. Consumer reports ratings
2. Limit deviation from oem specs
3. OEM HD cooling & electrical
4. Reliability improving mods – synthetic oil, etc.
Requirement 5: Limited Resources
1. 2000 F150 <60K <$7850
2. CarMax reputation and warranty ($1449)
3. Used components – Shell @ $410, etc.
i would appreciate any advice, recommendations, etc. the people on this forum have lots more experience in this than i ever will; i'd rather not make my own mistakes if i can learn from someone else's experience. thanks, again, for your time.
joe
Last edited by Joethefordguy; Dec 27, 2009 at 12:12 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Tampa, FL
well im gonna go out on a limb here. If you really want something that can take a beating you are gonna be putting money into it. Probably more money that you will want to spend.
1. Suspension 4 link front and rear
2. 42" Michelin XML's (millitary tires) very heavy will help against punture resistance.
3. Cut fenders, you dont want so much lift that you are top heavy (id say you want about 10" less than me if not more.
4. 2.5 ton ROCKWELLS, These are military axles they are gonna be the best bet for overall strength and dependability.
5. Topper, with all the neccesities.
6. Body armor, EXO-CAGE would be the best idea.
7. Motor, either keep the current motor or look into a Diesel Swap you will want the torque and longevity of a oil burner.
8. Lighting, get as many lights as you can, you will want to beable to see.
9. Dual batteries
10. Upgraded alternator
11. Winch, front and rear. 12-16.5k will be the range to look at.
12. Replacement bumpers such as road armor, or boondocks
this is something that would get you though almost anything you encountered. Id feel as safe as possible in this setup. But you are looking at alot of money. I understand that this isnt the most practical thing, or the best price but you would survive in it
1. Suspension 4 link front and rear
2. 42" Michelin XML's (millitary tires) very heavy will help against punture resistance.
3. Cut fenders, you dont want so much lift that you are top heavy (id say you want about 10" less than me if not more.
4. 2.5 ton ROCKWELLS, These are military axles they are gonna be the best bet for overall strength and dependability.
5. Topper, with all the neccesities.
6. Body armor, EXO-CAGE would be the best idea.
7. Motor, either keep the current motor or look into a Diesel Swap you will want the torque and longevity of a oil burner.
8. Lighting, get as many lights as you can, you will want to beable to see.
9. Dual batteries
10. Upgraded alternator
11. Winch, front and rear. 12-16.5k will be the range to look at.
12. Replacement bumpers such as road armor, or boondocks
this is something that would get you though almost anything you encountered. Id feel as safe as possible in this setup. But you are looking at alot of money. I understand that this isnt the most practical thing, or the best price but you would survive in it
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 149
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From: farmington hills
The requirement is to be able to get away from a society and government gone wild with enough gear, food, etc. to survive the ensuing bloodbath.
id go with one tons. parts for a general axle like a 10.25, 14 bolt or dana 60 are everywhere. 2.5 ton stuff is harder to find and expensive. lockers are far from cheap for those either. you'll probably want something like a detroit rear and a selectable in the front. id go low gears 5.13 or 5.38s and a set of 40s, maby 44s.
i perfer leafs, they can flex good but are also very strong. exo cages are bulky and heavy kinda a pain to work around should you have to. id go with a winch bumper in the front and a nice heavy bumper in the rear. winches front and rear or make a moveable mount. onboard air would be a must and something with enough capacity to fill your tires and not take an hr to do so. id buy a big trans cooler and a nice power steering cooler. id run a high amp alt and maby even 2 deep cycle batteries and somewhere youll want a power inverter. as far as fuel tanks, you would want something that will tuck up so that you dont drag it on anything.
id go with one tons. parts for a general axle like a 10.25, 14 bolt or dana 60 are everywhere. 2.5 ton stuff is harder to find and expensive. lockers are far from cheap for those either. you'll probably want something like a detroit rear and a selectable in the front. id go low gears 5.13 or 5.38s and a set of 40s, maby 44s.
i perfer leafs, they can flex good but are also very strong. exo cages are bulky and heavy kinda a pain to work around should you have to. id go with a winch bumper in the front and a nice heavy bumper in the rear. winches front and rear or make a moveable mount. onboard air would be a must and something with enough capacity to fill your tires and not take an hr to do so. id buy a big trans cooler and a nice power steering cooler. id run a high amp alt and maby even 2 deep cycle batteries and somewhere youll want a power inverter. as far as fuel tanks, you would want something that will tuck up so that you dont drag it on anything.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,966
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
1-tons would be unreliable under these circumstances.
if you were to run 1 tons forget about running military tires as they are just too heavy and will wear down the hubs, bearings and steering.
id also look into plating the whole under carriage.
Remeber weight means nothing with something like this, make it heavy.
if you were to run 1 tons forget about running military tires as they are just too heavy and will wear down the hubs, bearings and steering.
id also look into plating the whole under carriage.
Remeber weight means nothing with something like this, make it heavy.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: farmington hills
1-tons would be unreliable under these circumstances.
if you were to run 1 tons forget about running military tires as they are just too heavy and will wear down the hubs, bearings and steering.
id also look into plating the whole under carriage.
Remeber weight means nothing with something like this, make it heavy.
if you were to run 1 tons forget about running military tires as they are just too heavy and will wear down the hubs, bearings and steering.
id also look into plating the whole under carriage.
Remeber weight means nothing with something like this, make it heavy.
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,843
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From: St. Charles, MO
If survival is what you're after then a newer F-150 is not the vehicle you want. You want something with widely available parts and something NOT electronic. I'd look for a mid to late 70s Ford or Chevy 3/4 or 1 ton 4x4 truck.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Tampa, FL
they may be unreliable but says who? military axles are big and heavy and expensive. 600 for a set of lockouts. if they happen to break and they do break you sol unless you know where to get parts and have the bank roll to back it. military tires are great but not the best. even the military gets stuck. why make it heavy? so when you get stuck it take twice as long to get out? i see no point to run excess stuff you wont need. 2.5 tons and military tires would make it hard to drive on the street. my dad has a duece, not the most friendly thing to drive, the tires hop, they suck in the snow and rain. there heavy tires designed for a heavy truck. cut swampers or boggers would do just as good if not ten times better, there softer and will be able to flex around objects, and grab when you need them to.
truck needs to be heavy to provide as an anchor if the time came that you need one.
BTW your dads duece drives like crap because... A.) its not setup for street B.) its a hack job. Come down to Florida theres duece and a halfs running around as DD. The michelins are probably the longest lasting smoothest tire your going to find. and they are HARD, no need for any soft sticky mud tire on this truck. 90% of its life would be on the street driving though metal scrap, and rock rubble.
have you ever broke anything on a 1 ton axle? locker, gear set, they arent a easy swap. With what the man is doing the 2.5tons would never break and if they did it would be a axle shaft. theres no reason to buy a locker either, leave the front open and weld the rear.
Ill tell you right now under extreme conditions WITHOUT a built 1 ton you will break axle shafts often. I broke my 1ton axle shafts with a 4.2 and 46's. So add alittle power behind that and listen for snp crackle pop. So now your gonna say... well build the 1 tons up... well then what happens when something breaks where are you gonna go find chromoly axle shafts or lockers for that.
im gonna have to agree with Zaairman on the fact that you dont want an electrical based vehicle. So either swaping the motor and trans to something that doesnt require a computer to run or just looking for a older truck.
For instance: My setup that im working on right now is: 3.9L Cummins, 700r4 NP205, Rockwell 2.5 tons, 48" Michelin XML's for street, 44" boggers for mud. This setup is ALL mechanical, NO ECU, NO PCM on the trans or motor.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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your totally mising the point. some Interco tires would be ripped to shreds if this was a reality. HE IS NOT saying this will be a dedicated offroad rig. Its more for the metal crushing stand point. Its not like its going out to find the worst possible stuck **** and get in it.
truck needs to be heavy to provide as an anchor if the time came that you need one.
BTW your dads duece drives like crap because... A.) its not setup for street B.) its a hack job. Come down to Florida theres duece and a halfs running around as DD. The michelins are probably the longest lasting smoothest tire your going to find. and they are HARD, no need for any soft sticky mud tire on this truck. 90% of its life would be on the street driving though metal scrap, and rock rubble.
have you ever broke anything on a 1 ton axle? locker, gear set, they arent a easy swap. With what the man is doing the 2.5tons would never break and if they did it would be a axle shaft. theres no reason to buy a locker either, leave the front open and weld the rear.
Ill tell you right now under extreme conditions WITHOUT a built 1 ton you will break axle shafts often. I broke my 1ton axle shafts with a 4.2 and 46's. So add alittle power behind that and listen for snp crackle pop. So now your gonna say... well build the 1 tons up... well then what happens when something breaks where are you gonna go find chromoly axle shafts or lockers for that.
im gonna have to agree with Zaairman on the fact that you dont want an electrical based vehicle. So either swaping the motor and trans to something that doesnt require a computer to run or just looking for a older truck.
For instance: My setup that im working on right now is: 3.9L Cummins, 700r4 NP205, Rockwell 2.5 tons, 48" Michelin XML's for street, 44" boggers for mud. This setup is ALL mechanical, NO ECU, NO PCM on the trans or motor.
truck needs to be heavy to provide as an anchor if the time came that you need one.
BTW your dads duece drives like crap because... A.) its not setup for street B.) its a hack job. Come down to Florida theres duece and a halfs running around as DD. The michelins are probably the longest lasting smoothest tire your going to find. and they are HARD, no need for any soft sticky mud tire on this truck. 90% of its life would be on the street driving though metal scrap, and rock rubble.
have you ever broke anything on a 1 ton axle? locker, gear set, they arent a easy swap. With what the man is doing the 2.5tons would never break and if they did it would be a axle shaft. theres no reason to buy a locker either, leave the front open and weld the rear.
Ill tell you right now under extreme conditions WITHOUT a built 1 ton you will break axle shafts often. I broke my 1ton axle shafts with a 4.2 and 46's. So add alittle power behind that and listen for snp crackle pop. So now your gonna say... well build the 1 tons up... well then what happens when something breaks where are you gonna go find chromoly axle shafts or lockers for that.
im gonna have to agree with Zaairman on the fact that you dont want an electrical based vehicle. So either swaping the motor and trans to something that doesnt require a computer to run or just looking for a older truck.
For instance: My setup that im working on right now is: 3.9L Cummins, 700r4 NP205, Rockwell 2.5 tons, 48" Michelin XML's for street, 44" boggers for mud. This setup is ALL mechanical, NO ECU, NO PCM on the trans or motor.
Secondly if you served at all in the Armed Forces or owned a truck with Michelins on it you would know that they wear quite rapidly. You would also know that the weight rating of each tire exceeds that of your entire truck.
Also 2.5 ton axles do break and no not always with warning. With a final reduction ratio of 6.72 they are not good for highway use as the pinion is spinning too fast and the bearings get too hot over about 65 mph. And why would someone want all of the weight and size if not needed. You mention breaking one ton axles, what year and what where they out of ? Older one ton axles are weak compared to newer ones.
Weight as an ANCHOR POINT WTF.
Weight is hard on fuel consumption and parts as a whole. More weight is not always good. If things really where to fall apart where in the hell would you get fuel MADMAX. And what in the hell is an F-150 frame going to take before it breaks. I also have two Excursions which are one-tons and have never broken an axle one is a v-10 the other a 7.3 Powerstroke. Both have lifts and larger tires and both get wheeled pretty good. COMMON SENSE will keep a vehicle alive well better than adding more weight or make it bigger or even throw bigger parts at it.
If someone wants a truly easy to maintain survival rig non-electric controlled diesel, manual trans, lighter weight and reasonable tire size will do fine. Also Ground Hogs are great tires as they are hard, work as well as most off-road tires in the mud or whatever as long as inflation pressures are looked at and not over inflated. Why in the hell would someone want to go with mil-spec Michelins on a 20" rim knowing that one day it will need to be replaced? Use a common street size it is easier to find.
Last edited by 2.5Ton; Dec 28, 2009 at 02:57 PM.
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Rockwells would be the way to go dependibility wise but, he said he wants fuel economy too. That takes 2.5 ton axles and military tires out of consideration. So I'd say Dana 60 front and a Sterling 10.25 in the back. Put a fuel cell in the bed so it wouldn't take up space and wouldn't get punctured underneath.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,966
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From: Tampa, FL
As the owner of a Deuce I can tell you this IT DRIVES AND RIDES JUST FINE.
Secondly if you served at all in the Armed Forces or owned a truck with Michelins on it you would know that they wear quite rapidly. You would also know that the weight rating of each tire exceeds that of your entire truck.
Also 2.5 ton axles do break and no not always with warning. With a final reduction ratio of 6.72 they are not good for highway use as the pinion is spinning too fast and the bearings get too hot over about 65 mph. And why would someone want all of the weight and size if not needed. You mention breaking one ton axles, what year and what where they out of ? Older one ton axles are weak compared to newer ones.
Weight as an ANCHOR POINT WTF.
Weight is hard on fuel consumption and parts as a whole. More weight is not always good. If things really where to fall apart where in the hell would you get fuel MADMAX. And what in the hell is an F-150 frame going to take before it breaks. I also have two Excursions which are one-tons and have never broken an axle one is a v-10 the other a 7.3 Powerstroke. Both have lifts and larger tires and both get wheeled pretty good. COMMON SENSE will keep a vehicle alive well better than adding more weight or make it bigger or even throw bigger parts at it.
If someone wants a truly easy to maintain survival rig non-electric controlled diesel, manual trans, lighter weight and reasonable tire size will do fine. Also Ground Hogs are great tires as they are hard, work as well as most off-road tires in the mud or whatever as long as inflation pressures are looked at and not over inflated. Why in the hell would someone want to go with mil-spec Michelins on a 20" rim knowing that one day it will need to be replaced? Use a common street size it is easier to find.
Secondly if you served at all in the Armed Forces or owned a truck with Michelins on it you would know that they wear quite rapidly. You would also know that the weight rating of each tire exceeds that of your entire truck.
Also 2.5 ton axles do break and no not always with warning. With a final reduction ratio of 6.72 they are not good for highway use as the pinion is spinning too fast and the bearings get too hot over about 65 mph. And why would someone want all of the weight and size if not needed. You mention breaking one ton axles, what year and what where they out of ? Older one ton axles are weak compared to newer ones.
Weight as an ANCHOR POINT WTF.
Weight is hard on fuel consumption and parts as a whole. More weight is not always good. If things really where to fall apart where in the hell would you get fuel MADMAX. And what in the hell is an F-150 frame going to take before it breaks. I also have two Excursions which are one-tons and have never broken an axle one is a v-10 the other a 7.3 Powerstroke. Both have lifts and larger tires and both get wheeled pretty good. COMMON SENSE will keep a vehicle alive well better than adding more weight or make it bigger or even throw bigger parts at it.
If someone wants a truly easy to maintain survival rig non-electric controlled diesel, manual trans, lighter weight and reasonable tire size will do fine. Also Ground Hogs are great tires as they are hard, work as well as most off-road tires in the mud or whatever as long as inflation pressures are looked at and not over inflated. Why in the hell would someone want to go with mil-spec Michelins on a 20" rim knowing that one day it will need to be replaced? Use a common street size it is easier to find.
lets see you wheeling there buddy. Everyone here has seen mine so prove it mister 2 poster.
I bet you are masterbeatty or a friend of his coming to talk about something you dont know about. And im talking about 2.5 NOT 2 tons so i dont care if you have a DUECE go use the restroom and take care of that.
SECOND learn how to fin read a post. I said 2.5 tons will drive darn good for what they are IF SETUP PROPERLY. Next MILITARY used Goodyears, I KNOW. MICHELIN XML's in 48x16 weight around the 250 mark and 48x20 weigh about 230 mark. Like you said you stupid moron, 1 tire is rated to more than the whole truck, therefor a truck of this weight WILL not burn though them as fast as your thinking. These tires under trucks like this average over 70k with full tread and ive seen them over 100k.
Have you ran Ground Hawgs, i have i loved them, great tires but they are limited in reverse traction and size. 44's really only run up to about a 41-42 even on the 9.75" wheel.
Anchor point is self explanitory, if you dont know this then you are lost and confused. The man would be spending almost all the time in this truck, weight for fuel mileage = bad. weight for staying on the ground= good.
Obviously you dont do much WHEELING, sound like more of a puddle jumper to me.
Last edited by Bluejay; Jan 3, 2010 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Why can't you simply say you disagree? no insults!
