I'd just get a wagon humvee, drop a fuel cell in, some bolt on body armor but keep it light. I know the uparmored humvees we had sank in anything moist because of the weight. Drop cb radio or two in it. Some first aid bags, a big one, medium and a small one for different situations. Like previously said atleast one winch, but try for front & rear. Lots of lights but make sure you have some golights as well. They are like the police flood lights but remote controlled for easy use. Upgrade to heavy duty bumpers, with a brush/push up front. Real heavy duty one. Never know when you might have to push **** out of the way. Upgrade the skid plates. Make sure the oil pan has a plate under it. I know quite a few people busted oil pans over there because of no plate. Also like someone said get a aircompressor on there and a couple of power inverters. Upgrade the battery to a redtop or yellow top. Plus put a power distrubution block and put a couple of batts in the rear. Strong altenator and starter. New air intake with a snorkel. Drop a 2-4" lift with upgraded shocks, springs etc. They have great ground clearance as it is, you don't want it to high due to high center of gravity and a bigger silhouette. Make sure all the outside paint is flat. You don't want reflection. Also get a somewhat universal color to blend into multipul environments. Not green, black, tan... Like a coyote brown color. Works good in all environments. Put a rack on the roof as well for spare tires and extra parts and equipment. Don't forget a roll cage as well.

If you can find one, a surplus wagon style humvee. Less electronics the better. For emp type stuff if you are worried about those type of things as well.

 

Yes you are correct that I AM MASTERBEATTY'S DAD. You are also quite the idiot, the term deuce is a generic term referring to a 2.5 Ton truck.
The armed forces do not have a 2.0 ton in this configuration nor have they ever.
The next issue that I find find you to be totally stupid on, you indicate that you are aware of the fact that the Michelin XML tires are rated for more than your whole truck, well jackass what good do you think you do putting four tires on a truck that never see enough load to work properly it doesn't equate to longer life.
You answered none of the questions I asked, you insult me and start out with an attitude do you think you need to go spank one out little fella.
Sometime when you grow up and get a real truck and not that cobbled up piece of **** you drive let me know. Also getting stuck in a mud hole is easy try something worth doing jackass anyone can sink a truck. Try rocks or hillclimbing or I don't know maybe getting a goddamn life.
When you have any idea what it takes to survive in anything but an urban environment with a coffee shop on all corners let me know that as well. Rest assured that if/when things should fall apart me and my family will make it through due to preparation, training and a well executed plan we all can understand and carry out.
You my dear friend are an ******* who thinks you know it all and you do not. People with well more experience have seen and done more and know about the more about the various issues you claim to know. Shut the arrogance off pay attention and enjoy your trucks and sport you will learn more and be better off for it.
Anyone can get on the computer and be a bully which is what you do. I do not care if you kiss *** around here and get away with it but the facts are out there and you do not know them.
If I get banned or punished in some way for having an argument with you it would not surprise. Freedom to think outside the box and not follow the crowd is going away and until people learn to think again it will not return. You look for the sheep that follow and not go against anything you say, Sorry but I think for myself and family.
Good day sir and as all weak-kneed E-Thugs will do you will reply with more rants and useless information that some kid who does not know better will idolize you for.

 

Would both of you shut the hell up already. So far this is making both of you look like raving idiots.








The Currie axle would be a good axle, but there are much better ones out there like Spidertrax. The problem that has already been stated is that if something happens these use all custom parts which will not be readily available. Thats why you use a set of D60s or rocks (rocks would be better in this case).

 

lots of good info, which is why i posted here. i do not agree with everything i see here, but i didn't want to have my views prevail, so i'm not commenting too much ... despite some of the comments. i do see i'll have to expand on my 'requirements', as i seem to have led some of you astray.

as to those who laugh at my assumption re our country and collapse, i did not ask for comments on my reading of current events. i'm not seeking to change anyone's mind, nor do i care to hear anyone's comments on the subject in this forum. feel free to start your own thread. i included that only so people here would better understand the requirement, not for agreement or disagreement.
having said all that, why is it that almost always, those who disagree cannot offer anything but ad hominem attacks?
obtw, i lived for 4 years in those black helicopters. if you know who the AFIO is, then you should know better. if you don't, i suggest you refrain from arguing sans facts. or, at least go start your own thread.

now, can we please stick to the subject? if i'm crazy, i'm crazy - and think how many offroad dealers will profit from me because of it.

 

If the op wants performance and fuel economy both as the initial post says then rockwells are not the choice. What was the last truck you had that ran them?
Rockwells require a lot of power to compensate for the weight and design. With the pinion and ring gear design they eat power like mad. Strong and durable but never designed to be efficient.
If he runs a set of Rockwells he will need 20" wheels to fit over the drum brakes unless he upgrades to a pinion disk which means aftermarket again then there is the issue of how much torquing is the frame going to take just turning them before it crack and breaks?
The list goes on and on but the point is not to say Rockwells suck *** because they don't. I just don't think they are not the answer for the op.
Lastly I could give a **** about an invasion of what the ******* ever or the doomsday crap floating around it is all bull*******.

 

Great thread, but one question comes to mind....In the event of a total social/economic meltdown, will the warranty aspect of this project truly matter?

 

not sure where you're going with that, but i'll try. Though i don't think i ever mentioned the warranty, obviously not. However: 1) until then, i do need to keep the truck maintained and i'm not willing to spend more than necessary to do that. and, 2) the warranty is the warranty because those are the parts ford expects to last longest; so my assumption is that staying close to stock means (generally) staying with high reliability.

did everyone catch that 'generally'? there are exceptions to every rule. i am saying i will go beyond OEM when i get something worthwhile in return, such as improved reliability, etc.

 

How bout wheel brakes you, Debrake the heavy POS drums and add 4 corner wheel brakes. Dont think its possible. Do some research, this is what i mean, you get on here ranting and raving and you dont even know what can be done. heres some links. Yes its expensive to properly build ROCKWELLS for the street but they are worth every penny.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=766549
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=408046
THIS IS REALLY COOL BUT NOT FINISHED YET rockwell with 8x6.5 outers
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=732246

It doesnt take massive power to move rockwells, the gearing alone will move them, maybe not fast maybe not good on gas or diesel but theres gonna be sacrifices. And id rather have to carry extra fuel then run a weaker axle.

Im looking at this whole post as a make believe event, this isnt really gonna happen. And if it does then ill be amazed.

i apologize to the OP and the other members for being a horse's butt last night. But dont tell me i dont know what im talking about.

 

Ok, here’s a recoup of where I am now, with some clarification:

Fist, let me clarify the requirements:

1. CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP
a. I don’t have a lot of money, so I’m going for the most cost-effective. Yes, an M1 Abrams tank would do the job, but I can’t buy one. I can’t even afford a used F250 crew cab, though that was my first choice. I bought a used, low mileage F150 because I could afford it. If I’d been smarter in my youth, I could probably afford anything I want, but, if I’d been smarter in my youth, I might be president and we wouldn’t be in this mess (we’d be in a different one!)
b. If it only costs a few hundred dollars, I might well do it for even a miniscule gain. If it’s a 1500 dollar bumper capable of surviving IEDs, well, it ain’t happening. If I hit an IED, I’m dead. A good bumper is probably not necessary for the casket. So, E-fans, programmers, UDPs, etc. are good bets. Diesel engine swaps, military axles, not so much.
2. RELIABILITY.
a. Obviously, there are as many opinions on this as there are those of you gracious enough to part with your wisdom and experience. I would prefer to hear more about how far modifications can go while minimizing maintenance requirements.
i. Mods such as moving the battery, going to dual batts and/or alternators, are good bets. It strikes me that such mods are almost maintenance free, if done correctly.
ii. Body armor, etc. are good bets, but only if suspension mods are included. Everything that increases the suspension load has to be accounted for. So, if put a push bar/bumper/etc. on the front, I might have to go to fiberglass hood and fenders to make up for the weight increase.
iii. Some mods should be dead last. Such as the suspension upgrade I mentioned above – before I do anything to increase suspension performance, I should first lighten the load as much as possible, within available finances.
iv. I have seriously considered engine upgrades, but, all things being equal, before I go very far down that road, I’m probably going to drop in an OEM V8 on the theory that the farther below rated capacity an engine works, the longer it will last. So there are limits to how far I’m willing to mod the existing V6. I’ll do it, but I think some of the supersixmotorsports.com stuff is probably not going to happen.
v. Reliability means protection, so body armor is worthwhile, such as skid plates, push bars, etc. Again, has to be cost effective.
3. Range
a. I want to be as independent of gas stations as possible
i. This means better mpg, and greater fuel carrying capacity.
ii. Somebody mentioned being able to make my own diesel – that sounds absolutely fascinating – tell more?
iii. I didn’t ask for storage solutions, but the more I can carry, the farther I can go – not only gas, but food, water, tires, spare parts, etc. Let’s hear from the Turtle Expedition fans out there!
4. Off-Road
a. This is not ever going to be any kind of off-road performance vehicle. I’m more than willing to go slow, go around, air down my tires, dig, bridge, etc.
b. Most of you know smart, careful driving can get almost anything amazingly far off-road. I am not racing. So I’m going to settle for smart mods that increase independence from paved roads. I’m not going to go swimming (well, not deep anyway), or cliff climbing. I am going to cross farmer’s fields, as little mud as I have to, etc.
c. I think, given all of the above, that want counts more than anything else is self-recoverability, ground clearance and traction. Comments?
5. Misc.
a. Radios, survival gear, first aid kits winches, shepherd’s jacks, levers, pry bars, come-alongs, solar stills, solar battery chargers, generators, air compressors, floor jacks, genie’s in a bottle, weather-proofing, etc. Let’s hear it!


PS this is happening. i'm doing it now. when i have something to show, i will add pictures. i would post a picture now, but i've only had it three weeks and i think you've all seen camper shells and bedliners.

 

Second,
Here’s what the design looks like now:
1. 2000 F150 XLT short bed (6.5’) regular cab 4.2L V6, 5SPD manual 3.55 open diff, OEM HD payload package: 255/70R16 tires, HD Springs, shocks, electrical (130 amp alt), cooling and ClassIII towing pkge. This truck has just over 60,000 miles on it now.
2. used Leer camper shell (done)
3. Line-X bed liner (done)
4. 285/75R16 tires on stock rims
5. LS or locker –TBD. May go to lower gears. May even go to a 9.75 axle, depends on what I learn here. So far, the jury’s still out on that.
6. I’m moving the battery(s) to the bed.
7. Dual Alternators (see pro elect tech comment below)
8. Push bumper/bar with receiver. Eventually remove OEM bumpers (F/R) and may go to glass hood and fenders for weight reduction.
9. Efans: I’m going to pull fan(s) off a Taurus or a Mark VIII. A professional engine electronic tech is going to design and install the wiring, controller(s), etc.
10. Engine programming (PHP?), Gotts mod and UDPs are in!
11. modded 10 meter radio
12. skid plates, rocker bars, side steps
13. Roof rack… if I can put one over the camper that will carry any weight.
14. Maybe better mufflers. It’s got OEM dual cats on it now, and apparently it’s hard to improve this much. (Improve= power/mpg, not sound. Opinions will vary.)
15. probably stronger springs/shocks
16. Suspension limit straps, axle hoop, etc.
17. Aux fuel tank, water tank, tool boxes, etc.
18. AC inverter, air compressor, electric generator
19. work lights
20. steel matting, shovels, picks, axe, sledge, shepherd’s jack, come-along, floor jack, wheel hub winch, hand winch, electric winch, pry bars, wrecking bars, air jack (balloon), solar still, solar battery charger, etc., etc. etc. Feel free to contribute to “etc.” Really.

 

sounds like an awesome projects. Post up some pictures if you can.

and not gunna lie, 2.5ton and 4.2trimble its been fun listening to yall fight

 

My apologies to the OP.
As our training has taught us we have to move swiftly and with as little weight as possible yet still be effective.
If it were an option I would,
Upgrade or make a set of good bumpers. Winch points, lift points or spare tire/fuel/water can carriers.
Reduce all weight possible, carpet (vinyl), then rhino-line the floors and back wall of the cab. Replace the hood and fenders and ditch the air conditioning.
Carry only the most necessary of tools for recovery and repair,
Hi-Lifter jack,
two small and two large pry bars,
vice-grips large and small,
hammers ball peen and 6 lb. sledge,
screwdrivers,
sockets 3\8 and 1\2 with breaker bars and ratchets with various extensions,
various tapes (electricians\duct)
J.B. Weld,
tow strap or two and a good chain along with clevis's and a block and tackle,
voltmeter, wire and zip-ties,
floor jack and a screw type jack,
Rhino line the bed and use it for tools and equipment and fuel, potable water and water
tablets should stay inside or at least out of the sunlight,
Good lighting but do not tax the system to failure. L.E.D lights come to mind,
skid plating is mandatory, fuel, oil pan/steering, rockers,
Good air filtration if needed raise it you know as well what the sandbox does to air
filters,
a good oil filter that can be cleaned and re-used like on my 7.3 powerstroke,
Dual alt. are ok but not needed IMHO just run a 200 amp and do not max it out it will
live just fine,
if possible go with a diesel a 4bt is not a bad choice,
go with a manual trans, no need to worry about a hole in the pan, leaking coolers or
lines, and much less maintenance,
a manual transfer case you pick what you like,
axles (well we see where that has been LOL) Dana 60's with a SAS for reliability
Detroit lockers and 4.56 gears or whatever you like,
steel wheels for strength, cheap, easy to repair,
as far as tires go I wouldn't go much over a 36" and no need once again in my opinion
to go with a dedicated mud just pick a good all around tire for wear and ease of
replacement,
some type of bed cover be it a cap or tonneau cover. Cap would be better as you can
mount a spare on top and carry items attached to it and leave the bed floor open for
stowage or sleeping or?
chainfalls work good by the way and tax you only not your electrical system and there
is less to fail and are cheaper,
I would try to tax the elec. system as little as poss. for durability so keep the engine fan,
I am sorry this is so wordy but I hope it gives you some ideas. There are so many
things you can do it is mind boggling.
Please keep us up to date on your progress with pics. Good luck.

 

Is this thread for real? I applaud the creativity and ideas of many, but let's be realistic here. Unless I'm missing something, you're starting out with a V6, open diff, 4x2 F-150. I would start out with a better power-train\platform then what you currently have. You are looking at thousands of dollars, not including labor or if you do this work yourself. The V6 - V8 swap isn't going to happen, I'm calling that one now. Many have started threads saying they will do it and they never do. And for if\when the apocalypse happens, I'd rather have a 4x4 truck to get me around. Are you going to do a 4x4 swap?

I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers here, I just think don't think it's logical at all to do a build like this on your current truck. I'm subscribing to see how much of this actually happens, and I wish you luck if you decide to go through with it.

 

Yes, there certainly are better starting points. This is the one i have.

now, as to 4x4 - in my experience, there is a great deal of truth to the old saying that the difference between a 4WD and a 2WD is that the tractor that pulls out the stuck 4WD needs another 50 feet of rope. again, in my experience, 4WD is usually just another point of failure. i'm not saying it's a waste of time - i just think there are better ways to meet my needs. I could certainly be wrong. For the moment, i'm sticking with 2WD.

as to an engine swap, what you said here is probably true, but I have swapped several engines in my life. I did, at one time in my youth, operate a fleet maintenance facility, and I did compete in mud runs. i have done desert runs across the mojave in a truck i built. almost left it in the mojave, but i learned a lot!
my point is, i'm not just talking to hear myself talk. i've got a lot of offroad experience (on somebody else's dime) and i know there's a lot that can be done before you need a bill gates budget.
and, i know there are lots of generous people out thre a lot smarter than i am about this. that's why i'm here, asking them for their experience and wisdom.

and finally, if i did this right, there should be a picture of my truck the day i bought it with my signature.

thanks guys!!

 

Fair enough, I guess got lost in the comments about adding 2-ton axles and such. Anyway, since your funds are limited, I would just simply modify your stock power train slightly and run with that. All of the cosmetics, supplies to carry, etc. are great ideas and all, but I think some of these major modifications you're wanting to take on are going to be a nightmare for you.

1) Engine- I'd stick with your 4.2 V6: It's a very reliable engine and easy to work on, plus, you have very low miles. We all know it's not going to win any races or tow a house, but it will easily do exactly what you are asking of it.

2) Gearing-: I would go with 4.56 with a good locker. Match that with a good set of 35" AT tires (since you're lifting your truck, right?) and you should be able to travel decent even with a 2wd.

3)Transmission- Spare parts for the M5OD tranny: We've all read about the weak input shaft of the M5OD, so I'd carry some spare parts for repair in the event of failure.

4) Suspension- I think you have that area covered.

My 3 recommendations are very limited, but I think that is a good starting point for you, before you do all the cosmetics and such, which I think are all good ideas for a "survival truck" Good luck, man.