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Hell yeah bro! What a feeling that must have been to hear that fire up the first time. Keep it up!
I previously got it to run for a brief time without coolant in it, and the donor gas tank on the floor of my garage. The truck is much more complete now, and it was exciting to be able to get it up to operating temperature
Tie rods fit perfectly. I've got 14 threads inside the outer tie rod on each side and a quick visual of the alignment I think im still toe out. I'll have to do a rough alignment later on before she hits the road. Huge success, very happy with this!
Been working more under the dash, tiding up the wiring making things are routed out of harms way, connected the two ignition switches with a sub harness/removable connector
Engine bay is looking more complete! definitely keeps me motivated
What do you use to neatly wrap and bundle wiring? I want to make my wiring from my double din harness match the factory look. You have to connect wires in different areas so I want to make them look oem now. Is it a special tape?
split loom and electrical tape, you can get appropriate diameter split loom at a local computer store
I've also used "friction tape" before, its a different texture, its more of a woven material, designed to specifically handle harness movement and not tear. Probably would be better to call it antifriction tape?
I'm using a complete donor harness out of the 2015 F150, so its using factory connectors for power and communication with the steering rack
Ahhh; any chance you can tell what kindof input it's getting to work? I ask because I have one sitting in my shop I wanted to attempt to use as it's own unit without the factory computer. I know the main power connection. But wasn't sure about the smaller connection. I'm ok with not having "speed sensitive"
Ford doesn't use "speed sensitive" that's an old hydraulic steering term. Simply put the electric rack has a 2 channel torque sensor on the input of the rack itself. Its measuring deflection on the shaft, and puts that through some calculations to determine driver demand, and how much output is requested. Not just rotational, but torque request as well.
As far as wiring, I believe its main power/ground, and a small 12v ignition wire on the main plug. The smaller connector is CAN communication which is used for relaying fault codes out to the main truck computers.
I ordered a Dorman replacement driveshaft for a 2003 Harley Davidson. Its a 2pc driveshaft, and will give me a good start at getting the driveline nailed down
The Coyote 6R80 output flange (bolt on flange) is different than the Dorman slip shaft that would slide into a 4R100
I've got the driveshaft sorta mocked up, gonna need to get it lengthened and modified to work with my 6R80