Patman,

You know there are so many people out there that won't touch a newer engine for a build because of the electronics. You should write a book about the problems you've encountered with your swap and how you solved the problems. It seems from what you've done, identifying what to look for with an explanation of how to mate two different harnesses is information sorely missing from the garage mechanics library. Would it even matter which manufacturer is involved? Wouldn't the same issues and needed understanding be the information that is really needed? Just a thought because you obviously have got this down.

 

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...68b48d6bda.jpg

Here's the best picture I have of the engine mounts I used

 

I swapped in shackles and rear shocks today. Set the console in the truck, still need to bolt it down. Also played with the console deck a bit more

 

I set the truck on the ground today, for the first time in a really long time




I quickly realized how low that cat pipe really is! First stop will have to be the exhaust shop




I got the truck fired up, and she moved outside under her own power!!







I found out my modified/welded steering shaft isnt very straight, and its hitting the manifold pretty hard. Gonna have to redo that before we can attempt her first test drive. The good news is I had lots of clearance issues around the steering shaft, so hopefully the rebuild will end up with more clearance if its true and straight

 

 

Still having steering shaft clearance issues. Removed, straightened, grind it more for clearances.

Still have more issues, gonna have to order some universal steering shaft parts before it will be driveable




My wife helped me make a custom Texas plate for use during car shows and photoshoots





I was cleaning the garage this weekend, and found my old 4.6 engine cover. Just set it on top and it actually looked pretty good

 

My control pack from Ford Performance was $1500. What would you estimate the work you did would cost to have done?

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6017-A504VB

 

Well mine was mostly time, negligible material costs. 3 of the 4 body harnesses came with my junkyard purchase. I bought one harness from the dealership for 75-100 bucks IIRC

I have something like 50 hours in harness work. You can do the math on what the retail cost would be if that was full shop rate.....

Also at the time I started this project in 2017 no one offered a control pack for the 6R80, so I also didn't have a choice either

And it wasnt until recently they now offer harnesses that support EPAS

 

Here's my before picture of the driver's side cat




Small pie cut




Welded




Reinstalled. Much better!!!

 

Didn't think about the trans. The control packs available for the 6R80 at the time didn't work in the F150's.

My A series, 2013 control pack does electric steering. It's been removed in the B series. It's set up for AiM steering and at that time Ford hadn't removed the ability to adjust the steering weight and speed which they did in 2014 and was a good idea.

Item Connector # Description Item Connector # Description

A - UEGO O - Blunt Cut Cooling Fan Lead

B - Battery ground BL P C400 2-way ICP for optional supercharger

C - FPPDB Q C102A Alternator

D - Firewall Grommet R C128 MAF

E GD200 Ground S C160B 16-way I/P Pigtail Connector

F C160A Inline to I/P Pigtail Connector T C175B 103-way Cowl Pocket Connector

G C2040 APPS U C146 Inline to 12C508 (Engine Harness)

H C257 Clutch Bottom of Travel - - -

I - - - - -

J GD100 Ground - - -

K C251 Data Link Connector/OBD2 - - -

L - - - - -

M - EPAS connections(optional) - - -

N - Starter Lead - - -

Table 1 – Summary of Controls Pack Connectors

Connector item M is the EPAS.


50 hours of shop time? You have some skills most of us don't and at 50 hours, $1500 doesn't seem so bad.

 

Still really hoping to have the truck on the road so I can make it to the Coyote Shootout in Ennis on the 21st


I'm still fighting steering shaft issues. working through those last week and this week. More fabrication and more custom parts. YAY!!




You can see the awkward angles the driveshaft is trying to operate at, as well as the clearance issues against the exhaust manifold




More parts. Bought more than I should need, will give me more options on hand as I figure this out




Cheap materials templates. Cardboard and 3/4" PVC pipes




I cut my previously modified steering shaft, and then deconstructed it





Welded the 3/4" DD steering shaft into the factory shaft, back into the truck for test fitment





Fabricated the bracket for the shaft holder





Test and mockup





Removed from the truck for welding and paint




Stay tuned for further updates very soon!!

 

Wow, I don't envy you this job. Not knowing you I should maybe keep stay silent about this but. . . . I'm curious if you considered switching to rear steer spindles and mounting the EPS on the backside of the crossmember? Similar to what's done on the Mustang. Rear steer was used on the mustang because the location had less steering load and deflection. Intuitively, the cantilevered ladder frame is going to increase load and deflection over a unit body frame. If so, front steer is going to have an uncorrectable understeer nature. Rear steer would have oversteer but would be correctable. Steering can be taken away through geometry but can't add too what isn't there. I look forward to your opinions on the steering when you're done.

 

Front or rear steer doesnt have an effect on under/over steer? Camber and Caster play a much more significant roll in controlling vehicle dynamics

And no I did not consider that. It would have tripled or quadrupled my fabrication work on the steering rack mounts, and would have actually made my steering shaft angles worse

 

I should have stayed silent but since I didn't; From my college chassis and suspension design handbook.

. . . front steer. . . because any deflection of the control arms which are higher loaded than the steering gear will result in understeer. Rear steer will result in oversteer.

Anymore and you probably wouldn't believe me. Best of luck.

 

There are very subtle nuances about a tie rod being under tension versus compression. But in my opinion that has nothing to do with overall vehicle dynamics such as under/over steer....

We can discuss this further (in another thread) if you'd like, but let's try and keep my thread on topic here