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She's back up on jack stands, started ordering some parts already, and i'll be ordering more parts this week
I'm still fighting my "time out" no start conditions, was able to pull fault codes during one no start event. I've got a whole list of things I need to check and verify after thumbing through the diagram books again... Of course the fault code calls it "input b" but that isn't labelled anywhere in the diagram like that......
And I am honestly not sure if that is actually the problem or a symptom of a different problem
Noticed in your UPDATE 16 video your concern with "axle wrap"
It may be the angle of the video but your rear pinion angle sure looks HIGH...even not torqued up? I have not looked at a 2 wheel rear suspension but would assume it is LEAF OVER AXLE? moot i saw the pic..... did you swap the front leaf hangars to lower it. Typical rear pinion angles are set -1 ->-3 deg DOWN on leaf spring vehicles. With such a short rear drive shaft and your pinion looking like 10 UP....thats gotta be death on that rear joint not to mention terrible vibration. Unless you just WANT to go 4 link an average fix for most hot rods would be pinion wedges first then a set of cal-tracs to prevent spring wrap. I don't think you have enough real estate under there to add a pinion snubber (plus they limit suspension too = BAD FOR TRUCK)
btw cool job on the truck
Noticed in your UPDATE 16 video your concern with "axle wrap"
It may be the angle of the video but your rear pinion angle sure looks HIGH...even not torqued up? I have not looked at a 2 wheel rear suspension but would assume it is LEAF OVER AXLE? moot i saw the pic..... did you swap the front leaf hangars to lower it. Typical rear pinion angles are set -1 ->-3 deg DOWN on leaf spring vehicles. With such a short rear drive shaft and your pinion looking like 10 UP....thats gotta be death on that rear joint not to mention terrible vibration. Unless you just WANT to go 4 link an average fix for most hot rods would be pinion wedges first then a set of cal-tracs to prevent spring wrap. I don't think you have enough real estate under there to add a pinion snubber (plus they limit suspension too = BAD FOR TRUCK)
btw cool job on the truck
Its actually set -2 compared to the engine/trans angles
the second shaft "goes up hill" to the pinion so it looks pretty goofy. The pinion is climbing 10ish degrees based off my estimates.
I'm also getting a small growl from the driveshaft during higher speed coasting, so I can't shim the axle any further down
Bottom line is my axle is rotating a ton up and down, I've got additional footage from shifting from R to D and back in my driveway and even just the torque off idle its moving ~5ish degrees
I don't think I have room under the truck to run traction bars. Can't sacrifice 2.5 to 3" of ground clearance when I am currently sitting at 4 to 5" of total ground clearance
I think you will find most 4 link system will sacrifice that clearance also as the diff mounts must extend downwards around 3-4 inches (depends on manufacturer) unless you do like a triangulated 4 link. Another option might be caltrac SPLIT springs where the front spring is quite SOLID relying on the rear spring to be more "flexible".
Hey Pat, I was reading your post and remembered a set up that may help the axle wrap problem. It's usually for a ranger but
thought it may work in your scenario. It' just a thought...hell ya never know it may be the answer....LOL I was thinking with your fab
skills this might idea might help.
Some parts are starting to trickle in. I've got about half of the axle parts I ordered, ordered basically one of everything on the axle. Oh and my watts link is here too. That's gonna require some fabrication......
Didnt have much time to work tonight, just leveled the truck frame, disconnected the shackles, and moved the axle up to "ride height" so I can start mocking up the 4 link and then take measurements for the coilovers