This is the part number you gave me on page 4 for the Ford Racing header gaskets:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ms-m-9448-a462

Says, "Compressed fiber laminate".

 

HI!... Sorry I thought you were talking about head gaskets.

The PART # I gave is what I've been running for 9 years with no issues. Never blown one of those out. Just make sure you go through the TQ sequence with the header bolts.

 

BTW, I finally got a degree wheel today.

I know the tightening sequence for the factory manifold nuts, but haven't seen anything about a true torque sequence or torque values. I'm using stainless locking header bolts.

 

I just made a judgement call on mine - same as I do the plugs lol and I wouldn't use a degree wheel either unless I had one handy, it would be nice tho. - How much was it?

Good luck with that anyho. Right, it might not be safe to use the stock numbers, you could strip em out. Header bolts are shorter/quite a bit shorter than the stock studs. Uknow , I'm not sure the make a torque adapter/tool that will get on all of those.

As you prolly know, the proper sequence is from the center out (headers included). I used a 5/16 ratchet wrench and re-tightened once about a week after driving. Checked them again the following week and they didn't loosen after that. Never had a header leak , not yet and I used cheap gaskets.

Prolly sh^t you already know anyway - just in case

 

I think the service DVD said to torque from one end to the other, but I could be mistaken. Guess I need to get me one of those wrenches instead of ****in with the open end. I'm using stainless locking header bolts, so I only have to do it once. Was a good investment I think.

You wouldn't believe the pile of aluminum shavings I ground out of the intake again last night. I had a little more work to do at the TB elbow to manifold port on both sides, and a LOT of gasket matching between the upper and lower manifold. Did it with the old gasket in place. Also sanded the plastic flashing off the lower. Think I'm done now. Hopefully I'll have some heads tomorrow.

 

More shavings = More flow

 

Hahaha, bet I ground anther 5HP out. Oh yeah, the degree wheel is a FelPro...whopping $7 @ O'Reilly.

Crap, I got the wrong front crank seal.

 

Yea , grind away - I have the aluminum intake and was rough as hell inside - many little voids and casting imperfections. I had a bad flat spot @ WOT that I don't have anymore after smoothing polishing that out. Now, I can't say for sure that took care of the problem because I did a few other mods and sensor replacements before firing it up again to see where I was at, but it had to smooth up the flow quite a bit.

7 bucks ! That's it ! - It's a Felpro? Cool. - I thought it would be one of those -"Master Mechanic" or "Kitt" brands that you find it in the bargain bin waiting to check out. I'll have to add one of those to the arsenal - Maybe I'll try it out on the plugs with my "Angle of the Dangle" ratchet

Yea ,seals and gaskets - I ordered 98 5.4L Intake gaskets 3 different times before receiving the correct ones - Man , Ford liked moving the dowel holes around in those heads....

 

Check out the new plug holes!!!



The head surface is nice and sexy too, or should I say...WAS. I dinged the hell out of the surface on the pass. side rear dowel, about 1/8" toward the firewall. It's about 1/8" long and EASILY catches my fingernail. It looks like it's right at the peak of the raised area of the headgasket. I'm not sure if that's a good thing or bad. Hopefully these 4 layer headgaskets will do the trick, but I'm sure this isn't quite what Ford had in mind. I hate to gamble, but it would put me another week out. Maybe since it's a head bolt hole it won't be so bad. All I did was get it torqued down to 30 ft.lbs. all the way around following the sequence. Had to go around 4 times to get them all to stay at 30 ft/lbs I hope this is the proper way to do it rather than just tightening to 30 ft/lbs ONCE. I think the degree wheel is going to be too big of a pain so I think I'll just mark the bolts with white out and head with Sharpie at 180 deg.

Global COP's are identical to the Motorcraft COP's. I'm positive they are the OEM.

I have to move the header tube almost another 3/4" to fit and have 1/2" clearance between the starter and 1/2" to the frame.

Do I need to have the heads resurfaced AGAIN? Did I torque the head bolts properly thus far?

 

Here's a shot of the area in red. The second little mark there is a real light scratch.

 

those plug threads are niceeee

 

What do you guys think about the head surface? It's gonna be real fun getting the driver's side in with the header on it. I'm suppose to get on the dyno next Wed. so it's gettin serious.

 

The scratches are in an OK spot, imho. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Awesome, thanks.

Hacked the $#!^ out of the headers...I'll get pics up. Still need to test fit. I'm in for almost $400 in fabrication. Had to go buy a 12" piece of stainless tubing too.

 

yea the head surface is fine. why cant you put the headers on once the heads are on?