Pocket ported? What about that tiny exhaust valve nub? I'll check with them tomorrow...I can't wait 3-4 weeks...maybe 2. Wonder if $100 tip will get me bumped in line? Since I opted out of cams / springs, I can justify a few hundred more. Then again, I've "a few hundred" myself out of over $2,000 so far.

 

Did the new head bolts come with any instruction ? I take that the degree indicator is just for engines "in vehicle" - not on the stand. Haven't done this myself - so all I can offer is instruction off the DVD.

Do you have to re-torque after the engine has been run? Seems like you might after the heat cycle.

 

If you don't care then call it what it is. You have only referred to the Detroit Truetrac once in this thread and that is quoted above. Had you referred to it correctly the previous times we would not be having this discussion. I have maintained and supported my postion of it being a DETROIT TRUETRAC because that is what it is. Is in NOT an Eaton Truetrac no matter who owns the brand. Look at the website again, even Eaton calls it a DETROIT Truetrac because that's what it is, just like the DETROIT Locker, DETROIT E-Z Locker, and DETROIT Gearless.

This limited slip BS got started
1) by YOU because you called it an Eaton Truetrac rather than by its proper name and,
2) because it IS a limited slip according to the product description I was seriously joking about the "Lincoln Locker".

 

The pocket porting will elminate all the "nubs" and everthing in the combustion chamber. It would really be a good thing to do, esp. since you opted out of the cams, I hope I can talk myself out of some of the "stuff" that will go into my 4.6, but I'm determined to see 700hp at the wheels so, I guess that won't really work.

 

I would guess that the degree wheel would be more useful with the engine on a stand vs. in vehicle. Might be a pain. (As if it weren't already.) No additional instructions with the headbolts. I would think a retorque after heat cycle would be a must, but it's not mentioned in the service DVD, and I'll be damned if I'm going to try to remove those valve covers after it's all put back in place. I'd rather over torque. (...or not, since they don't provide a torque value.)

I lifted this from the following article:

"Cole's tip when building any motor is to have both heads on the block and alternate your torqueing of the bolts/studs between both heads to get even stretch on the block. Work your way out from the inside pair of head bolts to the outside, in steps from 30lb.ft. to 50lb.ft. to the final spec. Remember if you do use the OEM TTY head bolts they MUST be new, and you have to follow the stretch specification outlined in the shop manual."

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...t2V/index2.php

 

It doesn't matter if you call it a Detroit TrueTrac, Eaton TrueTrac, or an Eaton Detroit TrueTrac...it's pretty common knowledge that it's the same unit. (Besides Eaton's minor design improvement.) I'm not arguing it any more, call it what you like, and I'll do the same.

EDIT: Neal brought it up on pg. 14 when I stated I wanted the TrueTrac, and he replied saying to stay away from the junk Eaton L/S, at which time I asked for clarification. In fact, if you read my exact post after Neal's...you'll see that this disagreement never needed to be.

"Are you talking about the Eaton limited slip OEM style or the Eaton / Detroit TrueTrac that uses helical gears?"

Does that not satisfy your requirement that it's referred to as a Detroit TrueTrac? I referred to it as such before you even started this BS. You had to see it, you commented on the link I provided in that same post. Not my fault you didn't know Eaton was manufacturing these now.

 

I'll call it what Eaton calls it, a Detroit Truetrac. Hell they own and manufacture them, logically they should know what to call the damn thing.

I do apologize for missing your previous referrence by its proper name, and yes, that does satisfy my smart-*** statement.

I missed the part where I blamed you for me not knowing who owns the Detroit brandname. That was never an issue, Calling things by their proper names was. (ie Lincoln Mark LT vs Ford Mark LT) In fact, I stated you were correct about the ownership of the brand several posts back.

Good luck, I hope you truck turns out better than you had hoped, early, and under budget.

 

Huh - Do you have "built54's (Joey's) How To" - He has an instructional on PI swaps. It might be in there, I'm looking for it - It must be another another hardrive, can't locate it on this one.

 

I sure do, here's what he put for the headbolts:

"Carefully sit the head on and put the NEW head bolts in, they must be replaced. Refer to a Haynes repair manual or somewhere else with good information for the proper tightening specs, its very important to do it correct as these are "torque to yield" head bolts. now move to the passenger side, there is a bracket on the back of the head that took me 30 minutes to realize that is what was holding the head on and why I couldn’t get it off. Remove that and then do the same for this side as the driver’s side. Torque the heads down very good."

 

So what do need exactly - I've gottuh a few DVD's - You want numbers? Procedures? I've got both Haynes and Chilton's books as well.

 

Guess I'm going to follow the factory procedure as outlined in the service DVD, I just wish Ford would have provided torque specs. How is 180 degrees from 30 ft/lbs "TTY"?

Just ordered a set of Global COP's.

 

WOOT!!! The cylinder head shop said they would see what they could do about taking that shroud out of there.

 

TTY is a term that defines what happens to the bolt. You torque it till it yields. That means that it stretches rendering it useless for another application. The article that you posted was quite clear about the procedure for using the OEM bolts. Remember if you do use the OEM TTY head bolts they MUST be new, and you have to follow the stretch specification outlined in the shop manual. The shop manual procedure is 27-32 ft/lbs then 85 to 95° and then a final 85 to 95°.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

...and this is done with a degree wheel or by eyeballing / marking the bolt? Thanks JMC.

 

Doesn't say a damn thing on the DVD's - just gives you an illustration -



Damn! Are those even the Head bolts? Doesn't look like it. Iduno; like I said before - Never had the heads off her.

BTW - That was a b^tch stealing this diagram off the DVD - The things I had to do to get her here