I would. With the studs sticking out of the RH head, it is a challenge to safely install it back in that hole!

 

I installed the pass. side head without the header simply because it wouldn't fit from the top. However, I did the driver's side last night with the header installed and it went a LOT easier believe it or not.

Using the factory TTY bolts, (new) I did the 30 ft/lbs - 90deg. - 90deg., then an extra 1/4 turn, and they are reading about 75 ft/lbs. Does this sound right? The overtorque won't cause issues will it? They really didn't seem that tight. Nothing like taking the old ones out anyway.

The driver's side manifold fits fine, but I had to take the front driveshaft out to clearance the collector flange and the last bend in the inner most tube. There's only about 1/4" - 1/2" between the drive shaft, heat shield, and header. YIKES. I had to beat the hell out of the pass. side tube that hits the starter solenoid. Sucks that it's so flat spotted now, but it has to be better than the stocker or shorties. At least the starter moves with the engine.

 

Damn , I'm gonna recommend the Pacesetters - Ceramic coated for the 4six guys . At least they fit and you don't have to remove the starter - let alone - beat the headers down to fit. What a PITA.

BTW - The heads look nice!! Except for the skaunch you added to the one - You can always fill with Aluminum filler if your questioning it. I used a metal filler on the block 2-3 years ago and it seemed to do the trick - No leaks.

I've heard that you have to make absolutly sur both surfaces (head/block) are free from contaminates, like oil, before the install or they may leak. Mineral spirits work well for that.

 

Are you sure those Pacesetters fit the 2000+ 4.6?

I did spray both surfaces with brake parts cleaner and wiped with a fairly clean rag...hopefully that does the trick.

 

what headers did you go with? I had no problems with my dynatechs...

 

I don't see why not - They fit the 97 4.6L without an issue. Even though you have PI heads , the exhaust port side is the same as NPI heads. I don't know what would be different about your model.

 

I just wonder since no one seems to have done it besides shifty, and his is 2WD.

Built, I went with OBX, but I have the 4.6.

 

Oh yeah, I noticed after torquing the head bolts down that one of the little brass looking eyelets that holds the layers of the gasket is half way pinched between the head and block on the driver's side, front, lower part of the head. I know it's the right gasket, and it's installed right, but WTF? It looks like these were made to squish, but this is the only one that's actually pinched as far as I can tell. It just kind of freaked me out, I'll try to get pics up later. Anyone seen this before?

 

Having a little trouble getting the timing chains back on with the new guides / tensioners / hydraulic tensioners installed. The tensioners are fully compressed and locked in place, but I still can't seem to get enough slack. Any tips?

 

The timing chain guides go on first. Upper passenger side and lower driver side. Then the chains with the crank sprocket. Then the chain tensioner guides and finally the hydraulic tensioners.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

...so in other words, the order in which I removed them? HAHAHA...thanks man. Out power went out last night so I couldn't get on the 'puter. I got to have her up and running by Sunday...hope I don't run into anymore BS.

The pass. side chain guide changed and so did the upper bolt. My local dealership said I needed the long one like on the driver's side lower, so an emergency order and $10 later I had the wrong bolt. Turns out they require a 6x30 bolt sold in packs of 4. I got that info and the p/n from Team Ford and picked one up locally. It's one thing after another I tell ya.

 

I've been reading from the beginning, and it is nice to see how it is going for a DIY'er like yourself. I am in the same boat right now (broken manifold bolts and lots of miles). Thanks for keeping it updated and I would like to know if you can post a couple of pics of the exhaust? I want to go with OBX and install cats as well. would like to know how it all fits. I have the 5.4 so alot fittment issues shouldn't come up with mine.

Great read!

 

Checkout my "OBX's going on my 4.6L 4x4" thread in the exhaust forum. There are some pics there, and more to come. I wouldn't think twice about the OBX kit for a 5.4L. I could get my stuck exhaust stud out for anything until I had the head out and on the floor...came right out then.

 

Well, phase 1 is a success!!! No headgasket leaks, the headers and exhaust fit, and best of all no more maintenance items to deal with for another 100,000 mi. My god the exhaust is loud...getting a Dynomax Bullet installed tonight, but I'm sure it'll still be ridiculous over 3,000 RPM.

I can nearly touch the header tubes coming straight out of the head without getting burned at full temp since SS doesn't conduct well. I'm not at all worried about cooking the starter. Weird thing is, doing the coolant flushes, I could hardly get the truck to reach temperature. The e-fan never kicked in or anything. It use to take about 10 min. from a stone cold start-up, but I let it go for at least 30 min. yesterday and it just didn't get there. I hope the new thermostat isn't jacked or something. Hahahaha. Maybe the free-flowing exhaust and lack of exhaust gases in the intake have something to do with that.

 

It's gotta be like a whole different truck - congrats

But why are you throwing all the torque away w/a bullet? Harness that low end w/a borla ..Have you seen the Dyno chart on dif exhausts yet?