All this just gets me access to the headbolts basically. NEAL?!?!?! BUILT?!?!?!

 

wait wait, is that a list of replacement or just removal/reinstall? cuz if its removal reinstall for a gasket u dont need the valve stuff do ya?

 

I am replacing ALL gaskets on the top-end, as well as idler pulley, tensioner pulley, thermostat, IAC, and valve seals. All but the valve seals / front main seal have to come off anyway.

 

oh your lumping your work i see. but yeah that list looks pretty close for getting heads off.

 

Where did u get that intake manifold? Thestock one sucks.

 

???

 

Oops wrong thread my bad.

 

I dont really see a question here... I did my PI Head swap with the engine in the truck. I didnt use anything special to hold the cams, I Just put the engine in safe mode, where none of the valves can hit a piston, and pulled the chains off. I degreed the cams when my engine was on the stand, so it was much easier than in the truck.

 

http://www.modulardepot.com/articlesp.php?aid=32

The first photo shows safe mode. Good read.

 

That's what I was looking for, thanks guys.

 

UPDATE:

Been letting the PB Blaster go to work on the exhaust hardware, and I got hung up trying to get the 4x4 fender flares off to get to the fender splash guards, so I went to work under the hood. Got the vacuum lines out of the way and the TB / elbow off, as well as the intake assy. of course.

The front EGR bolt siezed up in the aluminum so it was a real pain to get out and the threads are trash. Going to have to find an oversize bolt to replace the new ones. Also, I noticed that the black plastic cover deal that goes over the lower intake is all broken up. There was a grey piece of something sitting just behind the alternator on the left side I tried to grab, and as soon as I touched it, it completely desinagrated. There appears to be a lot more. Any idea what it is? Does that plastic cover do any good? I'd imagine it's just there to keep it from getting heat soaked. Looks like p/n: 6P013 on this diagram I have.

 

The fender flairs are flexible so they need not come off to remove the splash guard bolts. Bend them a bit to get a ¼ drive socket on the heads. The brittle pieces attached to the lower intake are sound deadener. Mine is long gone. Removing it allows more air to circulate around and help keep it cool.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Sound deadener? HAHAHA...that's ridiculous. What about the plastic cover...another sound deadener?

Liners are out, as are O2 sensors, and driver's side collector nuts. I'm beat and goin to bed.

 

Yea , those suck - The old style lasts longer, It's solid rubber and wraps around the lower intake like a jacket. It even has two snaps in the front. Doesn't wear out . I don't know why they changed it to that plastic crap..Mines still intact.

 

Looks like I may have been getting some cross contamination in the coolant...even though it's only been 25k since my last drain / fill, it was pretty gnarly with gummy buildup in the hoses and thermostat housing. Should I just use the Prestone flush or good ol dish soap and water?

I'm a little concerned about the dyno runs with these ProComps. I think they are only rated @ 100mph...think they can take 125+? 4th. gear is my 1:1 and I've never topped it out. 3rd. takes me to 90-95, then I let off in 4th.