I have 33 BFG MTs. 3.55:1 gears. My dyno runs go up to 5500rpm in 4th. manual tranny 4th gear is 1:1 ratio. You do the math. According to my calcs that should be in the vicinity of 150mph. I DO NOT STAND ANYWHERE NEAR THE TIRES.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

^^^^ Yea , no sh^t!! - That could be un healthy.

Jackal - How did your heads look around the manifold water jackets ? Any pitting ?

 

Got the exhaust manifolds off and all the accessories. Also got the e-fans off and mounted to the custom brackets. Just in time too, there were 4 spots that had worn nearly half way though the radiator where those POS copper rods were. Hopefully some JB IndustroWeld will keep em from blowing out.

Do I have to drop the front axle / remove the oil pan, and install a new gasket when I take the timing cover off, or do you just use RTV here? Does the power steering pump have to come off the block to get the timing cover to clear the crank for removal? If so, do you need to drain it, or replace any gaskets etc.?

 

Noticed that the alternator "squeeks" at a certain point when rotating the pulley. Is this a sign of it going bad or nothin to it? I'm trying to figure out which one it is, the 95 or the 135 amp. All is says on the back is:

AT
XL3U-BA
00081212

& "Motorcraft" and "19" are in the cast.

Searching hasn't done a lick of good.

 

Bump...

Also, regarding "safe mode" don't you already have to have the heads off to find "safe mode" in order to mark it as such?

I had to order another $400 in parts on Friday, and between having to send the heads off and getting a full stainless exhaust TIG welded up, as well as dyno runs, alignments, etc...I may have to put off the gears till next tax return. The gov't hasn't stimulated me enough this time around. HAHAHA

 

Got the fuel rails, injectors, and COPs out of the way so I could finally get that upper intake manifold off of there. Guess what...they were, all but one, HAND-TIGHT. I mean literally, I used my fingers only to unscrew the rest. The lower intake has a small pool of oil sitting in it too. Figured it would. That goofy plastic / rubber insulator was split in half and half of the insulation was missing. That POS is long gone.

Looks like lots of room for improving the upper manifold, but I'm not about to attempt a Dremel job on that bad boy.

Got the pass. side valve cover off, and bolts loosened on the driver's side. I need to pull the fuel lines off the rails, but pulling didn't get them loose. (yes, I pulled the retainer clips off) Figured I'd make sure that was the proper way to remove them before I broke something.

I've taken some boring pics of the progress I'll try to get up tomorrow night.\

Oh yeah, no jbrew...I didn't notice any pitting, at least on the top side of the heads. I did notice something today though. The Royal Purple Ice coolant additive stuff said DO NOT USE DISTILLED WATER IN ALUMINUM RADIATORS. What is that all about...what are you suppose to use? Mine's run distilled since day one, and so have my dirtbikes. The new colant is Peak gold / yellow long life, all colors compatable pre-mix, but I'm flushing with distilled and Prestone coolant flush.

 

Here's the tool for disconnecting the fuel lines from the rails. It pushes the spring ring back to release the pressure:http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

I'm sorry some of you guys have lost interest in this, but here's what I'm at:



Ya'll got me this far, I hope you will help me see it through.

I got all the bolts out of the timing cover, but the damn thing won't budge. How do you "pry" it off of there?

I haven't drained the oil yet, so I'm hoping it doesn't come pouring out the front when I do get the cover off. I did check the oil and it wasn't quite to the cross-hatching on the damn stick. It's only been 2,000 since my last oil change, so it was getting bad. I usually go 4,000 between changes, and haven't made a habit of checking it since about 10,000 miles ago. Hope I haven't trashed the bottom end.

See the classic signs of 2001 4.6L Romeo PI heads there on the block? Nice huh? I hope the deck surface was protected by the headgaskets somewhat.

My plan for removing the timing components is to pull the plugs and put the engine in "safe mode". Then marking everything, removing the guides to get enough slack to pull the chains, and hoping I don't bump any of the gears while trying to get the heads off. How freely do these gear move when the chains are off anyhow?

 

you sure you got them all off? Mine slid right off. How a bout the ones from the oil pan going up into the cover? and yes, the power steering pump has to come off

 

Duh, you just beat me to it...I got all cleaned up to go out to eat and decided to get on the creeper one last time. I can clearly see that the power steering pump has to go, as well as the 4 oil pan screws. DOAH!!! I know Ford says to put about 10-15 dabs of RTV at certain points on the cover, so I figured that was holding it on. Thanks man. Planning a trip to KC anytime soon? LOL

 

I dunno, I Just noticed you were pretty close... well on the opposite side of the state. any drag racing or truck shows by u this weekend?

 

WOW - Is that a bad head gasket or what! Sorry , haven't seen one leak quite that bad before..Holy chit!. Mine actually looks clean in comparison -



I can' believe how bad that is , what causes that I wonder ? Over heating ? Were they leaking on the exhaust side as well ?

Sweet heads tho - definitely PI's

 

Don't forget to remove the water pump. It will be in the way.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I definitely didnt lose interest in this thread... Looks like you've been busy. Were you losing oil and coolant into the valley or just one? Your valley looks bone dry compared to mine. Its all sludge down there for me.

So I take it you ruled out the comp cams? I did, every set of heads I see that I am interested in have the cams with them so i'll just be happy to have the PI advantage plus the + .5 in compression.

But yea nice work so far and keep the pics rolling

 

Built, looks like this weekend was rescheduled, and the real fun doesn't get started for another week or two anyhow:

"MIDWEST SHOOTOUT UPDATE
Todd Tosto's Midwest Shootout that was scheduled for Sat. Mar. 29th. has been rescheduled for Sunday April 13th."

I would have easily paid for gas, and then some...if anything just to see that damn truck of yours, but it's no big deal...I was just messin with ya. We will have to hook up sometime though. Wayne "The Train" Hanc0ck is coming to STL on a Friday in about a month and has the weekend off, so we're thinking about coming out to party. We see him in KC about 4-5 times a year, but he usually he has a show booked the very next day. I promised the ol lady if the truck was running, we'd take it out there.

(Anyone into REAL country music / hillbilly swing / rockabilly, not that CRAP you hear on the radio, then youtube Wayne Hanc0ck. He'll be in a bar near you soon, and is the most bada$$ guy you'll ever meet.)

Anyway...yeah, the exhaust side looks a LOT worse. Oil is actually collecting on the top side of my M50D from it, and it doesn't help that my driveway is on a steep incline. Never a drop on the ground though. The 01 Romeo heads had burrs on front of the driver's side and rear of the pass. side, and Ford does NOT allow for resurfacing, so of course it came right back.

I did decide to bail on the cams since I don't have to do heads now...remember I thought I had an NPI 4.6. I don't think they are worth the money without gears and head work. Also, I think the off the shelf cams are too aggressive for a street driven 4x4 truck, requiring a custom grind which costs even more and I don't have the know-how to spec them in the first place. With my raised idle speed, I wouldn't even get that loping idle I so hoped for. Good thing too, I'm already in for $2,000 in gaskets / seals / hoses, and headers. I just hope to hell these things fit. I plan on slipping the pass. side on and test fitting before taking the heads down. Even if they do fit I don't see how I'm going to tighten the bolts up with all those tubes in the way, so hopefully I can mount them before I reinstall the heads.