I appreciate the time and explanation...remember though, I have a 4.6. If I had the 5.4 I would have done several things different from what I've done with the 4.6. Also...if I had a blower, I'd have removed the swirl dams for sure. Maybe even with cams, but not before a lot more research.

I will say that Patriot didn't have squat to say about their reasoning for removing the swirl dams or even for me not to...but I'm sure they're somewhat tight lipped about their porting. Don't blame em.

 

HI!... FoxLake removes the "EYEBROW" when you get their heads. I know, I have them.





I think this guys full of *****. All I know is that I had 251RWH.P before ported heads and cams. 354RWH.P after and thats from lowering the compression from 9.0:1 to 8.4:1.

 

Sexy.

 

No pics yet, but I cleaned up the upper intake ports, put an angle to the leading edge of the dual plane seperator, and radiused the heck out of the injector area so as to promote atomization earlier and provide a smoother transition into the head. I LOVE doing this stuff.

 

Am I going to have any trouble with the coolant since I've had the heads off and all? I noticed there is a plug in the intake manifold that I assume is for bleeding if necessary. Also, since I'm flushing so many times and am installing a new thermostat, should I leave it out till I'm done or?

 

BTW, I found that link...didn't want you to think I was BS'in.

http://www.kc-mustangs.com/KCM/showthread.php?t=4085

 

I think you want to install the stat as one of the bolts is an intake bolt and is part of the torque sequence. The stat should be OK.
Where's the plug??

 

Well, I figured I'd go ahead and bolt it all up, then drop the new thermostat in afterwards, but no big deal either way. The threaded plug with red pipe dope on it is on back side of the manifold in the middle of the coolant crossover section. Least, that's what I believe it is. Perfect location too huh?

 

Both bolts on the t-stat hold down the manifold and are part of the torque sequence. Sequence #8 and 11.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Right, but I don't imagine removing all the inake manifold bolts are part of the thermostat R&R procedure are they? I'll have to check the service DVD when I get home. I'd be shocked if it were.

 

No, to remove the t-stat only remove the two bolts.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Welp, the cylinder head shop dropped the ball and I won't have heads till Monday now. Going to take a few days off, so hopefully that will get me back on schedule. They didn't get the plug inserts installed because they couldn't find the bad one. I told em to do em all before I ended up with a bad one.

They said that that the exhaust valves didn't check out on the vacuum test so they pulled them. Apparently they looked "good" except for some light pitting, so they "faced" them and now they check out. He didn't recommend changing the valves. Should I? Any idea what good stainless valves would run me? Would they be dished or would I want to go flat? Must have been from the non tow-safe tuning pulling that 1,000 lb. wave runner through the Ozarks.

The new hydraulic tensioners showed up today. They are composite with a release clip rather than having the hole for the paper clip. Are these junk compared to the original ones or what? They are completely redesigned and have an integrated seal on the mating surface. Not at all reusable, IMO. There is also no toothed / ratcheting arm on the piston like before, and the head of the piston looks to be a bit smaller dia. The oil path is different as well. You wouldn't think they would cheap out on such a critical part. No wonder these are only like $38 a pop.

 

HI!... The original tensioners are steel not aluminum. The plastic ones do the job but I prefer the steel ones myself.

 

Thanks Neal, I just checked out the old ones and noticed that. I edited my last post to add more info too.

Oh yeah, Ford Racing can't seem to get me my header gaskets, so that will probably hold me up as well. It's been over a month now. If they can't overnight them on Monday, then I will just cancel.

Are the compressed fiber gaskets really that much better than the MLS OEM style with silicone sealing surface? I know they are only a fraction of the cost.

 

HI!... MLS is the only way to go on a modular engine, unless you go copper with "O' rings. But that's very expensive.