I've got a ? for ya neal, since you eliminated the dual plane setup of the factory manifold, did you leave the IMTV in or remove it?

 

The 99 5.4 doesn't have one.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

HI!... My 5.4 didn't have one.

 

I think the IMTV is a 4.6 thing.

Neal, do you thread chase with an old head bolt or each of the new ones?

 

would that be a possible modification on a composite intake????

 

WHAT!?!?

Well, not sure what Neal uses - Here's what I use,

A "dead end"(no taper) tap/small port cleaning wire/or course bristle brush/compressed air.

BTW - It's a good idea to run the new bolts (headers only/not head bolts) about 3 or 4 threads in and then remove by hand. That way when you install the part; the bolts will start in correctly. This will decrease the chances of cross threading which is easy to do in these aluminum heads.


About removing the divider in the intake manifold. I've read that doing this decreases torque and hurts the low end. When I polished mine, I was going to do the same thing but I value torque over high end HP, so I opted out.


Good Luck

 

Neal, I actually considered the shop vac, and decided I didn't want to nasty it up. Guess that would work best though.

I wanted to remove the dual plane section on the top side there, but it's so deep can't get it with my Dremel, even with flex attachment. I need some real tools.

Don't mind the red tint...it's from the the blanket underneath.

Driver side:




Pass. side:

 

What's with all the carbon? It's worse than it looks. I haven't used Seafoam in 20k miles...maybe that would help.

 

A shot of the old plugs:

 

jbrew, I'm doing ALL of this by hand.

 

Well, I didn't think you were using you feet

I did mine by hand + necessary tools needed. Are you referring to machining maybe?

Is it just me or do those plugs have some serious gappage.


OH!! Nevermind - You made a funny(ie-"by hand" comment) ; I just caught that

 

HI!... There are thread chasing taps out there. Some local machine shops will lend them (rent) to you.

No offence but you seem to have the engine stripped down quite a bit. Why not just go all the way and pull the engine and build it up on a engine stand. It would be so much faster and easier. The way it sits now I could have that out of your truck in like 20 minutes.

 

No stand, etc.

The plugs were gapped at .054 and still read that within .001. Think it just looks that way because of the super tiny electrode...??? Out of the box they run about .038 - .040

 

Good one brew.

I agree with Neal. I did the top end of my engine in the truck, and my ribs still hurt after nearly a year.

 

Yea, my ribs are bruised all to hell. Noticed the pass. side head was beat all to shat from the stealership's attempt to remedy this years ago. Hopefully they can still be used.

Headers don't fit on the pass. side, but I see no reason why I can't go ahead and bolt the driver's side to the head before dropping it back in. I'm taking the exhaust parts to the welder tomorrow to see what he can do to move some tubes.