never satisfied aye haahha

 

Langglowe I noticed that when you dynamatted you rear cab you did not cover up the two vent holes, that are located in the each rear corner of the back wall of the cab. Is there a reason for this ? Im in the process of doing my entire crew cab and I covered mine both, figured it would seal better for sound dampening. Let me know if I should uncover or cover for maximum results. Thanks

 

The only problem with covering them is cabin pressure when the AC is on with the windows up. I cover 1 of mine completely and half of the other one, no problems with pressure.

 

On mSaLL's advice that is exactly what I ended up doing after the fact.

Completely covered the passenger side and half of the drivers side

 

langlowe, im pretty sure you said you ran a pull of wire to the rear speakers, but my question is how did you remove that interior panel that is between the front and rear doors? the one that holds the seat belt mechanism..

 

I removed the front and rear sill plates. Once those were gone I grabbed the bottom of the B pillar panel and pulled. It will come out a good 6-9 inches. More than enough room to get to the boots and fish speaker wire into the door.

 

thanks i started to do that but i was worried id break it or something , your install is awesome, im slowly trying to do my system for the first time ever by myself

 

LangLowe, i got another question, you said that you used the 9th wire in the 9 wire bundle for a remote turn on, what did you splice into with that wire?

 

I used an add-a-fuse at #42 in the passenger fuse box. I ran a small lead from the add-a-fuse to the 9 wire.

To make the add-a-fuse fit you have to trim the side of the fuse box top cover but that is pretty painless. Utility knife worked for me.

 

thanks, sorry to keep bugging you, but where can i get an add a fuse? autozone? and does it have to be a certain type like a mini one or what? sorry this is all new to me i dont usually do my own system, but seeing yours got me motivated

 

I got mine at autozone.

Real easy to use.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=2102557

 

Langlowe, I would like to thank you for your post, I used your ideas with my focal tweeters and placed them in upper door panel like your install, they sound fantastic, little harsh on some types of songs but overall I think it was better then placing them in the stock tweeter location just above the mids. Thinking about doing a 3 way set by focal for my fronts in the future but Im gonna try to make up some fiberglass pods before I break down and spend the extra cash. Overall Im very pleased. Thanks again for your post. I think I put over a 1000 miles on my truck just driving around listening to the system!!!

 

Thank you k9daro.

I hear you about the Focal tweeters. I went active on the front stage a month ago and it has been a real challenge taming those TNB tweets. I am realizing just how good a job the passive crossover did.

3 way would be nice but I need to figure out the tuning of this active 2 way first. Also, I can barely cut wood and I don't think fiberglass is in my playbook right now. A while ago I asked a local shop how much to make custom fiberglass kick panels but it was out of my wife's budget, they wanted $500 - $700.

 

Langlowe -- first, thanks for this; I am in the planning phase of a similar project on my 2011 FX2 and your article and pictures are helping me a LOT.

Two questions if I may:

1.) I noted that you retained the factory HU and tapped into the speaker level outputs using a AudioControl LC6i. I was thinking of doing this as well (retain my factory HU with changer, etc.) but figured the amps in the factory HU are massively EQ'ed for the cheap Sony door speakers and factory sub, and a such, using the speaker outs via a LC6i would pass that colorized, uneven audio to my outboard amps and without further (possibly extensive) re-equalization, would sound bad. I have not seen this mentioned in this thread so must not be an issue but wanted to ask -- are you getting reasonably flat audio on the line level side of the LC6i? Also, did you have any problems adjusting the speaker level inputs to the LC6i (how much can you push the volume on the HU into the line interfce before it starts to distort)?

2.) In your pics, looks like you Dynamat'ed the rear cabin wall underneath a molded cover before screwing your amp rack in. Reading the comments here, the purpose for this is to reduce noise, but I am wondering why; it would seem that just screwing the amp rack onto the existing rear cabin wall, retaining the molded trim and leaving it at that wouldn't make a noise situation any worse (would improve it actually since you are adding considerable sound-deadening mass to the area). Just interested in the cost justification and benefits of the Dynamat material.

I was planning on replacing my factory HU with an Alpine INA-W900BT in part because I assumed utilizing the speaker outs on the factory HU would not produce a satisfactory audio source. Thus increasing my budget considerably and delaying my project for months. It is currently looking like late September if I go the full, currently planned Alpine route: INA-W900BT HU , PDX-F4 (4X100W), PDX-M6 (600W sub), SPR-60C (front components), SPR-68 (rear 6X8) and two JL Audio 10W1v2-4 subs and under rear seat box + a 5F cap. Eliminating the Alpine HU and going with the rest of this system would advance the project to mid-August (3-4 weeks from now).

BTW, I am not far from you, just north of Georgetown

 

I think one of the main reasons to dynamat the back wall is to help with road noise. the back wall is not insulated like the doors other than the piece of carpeting from the factory.