My install experience - long writeup

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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #31  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by tdel10
Wow! Awesome install, you gave me a BUNCH of ideas!

What do you think about the Focal components? Worth the money?
I got the 165VR for a steal at right around $250. That was money well spent.

I was feeling frisky this weekend and took it to one of the only car audio shops here in Austin. I am thinking about adding another ID 10" sub or maybe switching to 2 BI MKIIIs.

A few of the guys that worked there wanted to hear it and they thought it sounded really good.

The Focals are real clean but can be a little bright to some. I am running them passive and have the crossovers at -3db on the tweets.

I can honesty say I really really like them.


Originally Posted by F 1Fiddy
How did u lay that board over that sound deadner? My sound deadner was very in even and impossible to work with.

Did u take ur seats out to do the job?
That looks amazing. Great job.
Thank you sir for the kind comments.

I got lucky in that the center support beam is where I layed my first strip of deadener. Everything else was layed from that center section. I wish I could say it was all in the master plan but I really just got lucky.

And no I didn't take the seats out. In restrospect, it would have been so much easier. Can anyone say cramps after being crammed in that back for 6 hours straight.
 

Last edited by Langlowe; Dec 13, 2010 at 09:02 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #32  
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Awesome! This might be a stupid question but how did you get your seats to fold down? Is there enough space for the amps behind the rear seats? How about when the seats are folded up? I know, well at least on mine, when I fold the rear seats up, the space behind them gets much thinner.

-Cesar
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 07:23 PM
  #33  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by cocarva
Awesome! This might be a stupid question but how did you get your seats to fold down? Is there enough space for the amps behind the rear seats? How about when the seats are folded up? I know, well at least on mine, when I fold the rear seats up, the space behind them gets much thinner.

-Cesar
There is a bracket behind the seat that has a release pin. I found how to fold the seat back down on this site. Can't remember the exact thread.

Now the amps are a different story. While there is plenty of room for the amps with the seat in the normal position I can no longer raise the seat bottom all the way up. This really isn't a big deal to me because I still have at least 3 more years with at least 1 child car seat in back.

I can get the seat up about 85% of the way up and then I can pop the release to the back. Then everything folds down as it should. That Clarion amp is almost 3" thick. When I had the small loaner 2 channel I could force the seat up.

I am sure that I could raise the amps up a little and do a little engineering to the amp rack and get the seat to raise up as it should but I am not that motivated at this time.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #34  
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Still haven't replaced the common ground 4ga and but did add some optional end caps to the Kicker 500.1. Not sure if I like the end caps but they are on for now. Any opinions on them?

I am currently in conversation with mSaLL150 and Stormsearch on possibly replacing the single ID10D4 sub and Kicker amp with dual SI BM MKIII and a Sundown Audio SAX-1200D.

Other than the ground I still two things on my list to do when winter is over.
Deaden the doors and weatherproof the MDF speaker rings.

Took a video and a few more pics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYMHnfeEBHw


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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 06:42 PM
  #35  
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What did you use for a ground?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #36  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by cocarva
What did you use for a ground?

I mounted my ground to the rear seat belt shoulder assembly that mounts to the back wall. There is a large T50 Torx bolt that hold the thing in place and that is the bolt I used. I did have to enlarge the diameter of the ring connector I was using.

I did not ohm test the location but I don't have any type of engine noice or static so I figure it is good.
 

Last edited by Langlowe; Dec 17, 2010 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #37  
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I used the bolt for the child seat latch in the middle. Just make sure you sand the paint off to get a good connection.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #38  
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Did you have any problems with the Metra BT-5520? One other poster said after wiring it up he lost his steering wheel controls. Did you experience anything like that?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 07:24 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by F150Aggie
Did you have any problems with the Metra BT-5520? One other poster said after wiring it up he lost his steering wheel controls. Did you experience anything like that?
I had no issues after using that harness. It was probably the easiest thing of the whole install other than taking off the doors.

What I did was physically remove the 4 wires that connected between the two black bluetooth connectors. A good tug and the wire and pin just came right out. Then just connected those two black connectors together.

The other 8 wires are the speaker leads and that is what you splice into.

Here the link to the picture used in brn2ryd install.

 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 10:43 PM
  #40  
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Ok thanks. I'll be diving into this early next year. I may pick your brain when the time comes.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #41  
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Update to this build.

Just for kicks I went ahead and bought two SI BM MKIII subs this week. Again thank you mSaLL and Storm.

Now on the finding another sub amp that is not to big, not to expensive, but not to cheap, and has just the right power.

Will update more as things start to arrive and I start the box build. That is the one thing I am not looking forward to. I am way to **** and I don't have a table saw.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #42  
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Heh, I used just a jigsaw and skillsaw to put my box together...hence why it looks horrible and is just slapped together. Once I get a chance to get up to the ranch for a few days I can whip out the table saw and build a nice looking box. :o
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #43  
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Congrats on the new subs, now to find me a pair lol...

You would be surprised what you can do with a skill saw and straight edge.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 10:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Langlowe
I had no issues after using that harness. It was probably the easiest thing of the whole install other than taking off the doors.

What I did was physically remove the 4 wires that connected between the two black bluetooth connectors. A good tug and the wire and pin just came right out. Then just connected those two black connectors together.

The other 8 wires are the speaker leads and that is what you splice into.

Here the link to the picture used in brn2ryd install.


Thanks for sharing all of your information about your install. Very Helpful.

I'm just not clear, I see you remove the 4 wires connecting the 2 black connectors.

Then you connect them to eachother?

Or do you cut them both off?

I'm just not exactly sure, I have one ordered but Im assuming it wont have this information with it. if you could draw a little sketch or show a link to someone who has a picture of it cut. That would be awesome.

Great install, looks so nice. Especially the amps!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by macaboo
Thanks for sharing all of your information about your install. Very Helpful.

I'm just not clear, I see you remove the 4 wires connecting the 2 black connectors.

Then you connect them to eachother?

Or do you cut them both off?

I'm just not exactly sure, I have one ordered but Im assuming it wont have this information with it. if you could draw a little sketch or show a link to someone who has a picture of it cut. That would be awesome.

Great install, looks so nice. Especially the amps!

Yea, I was wondering about this too. I was gonna just splice wires without a harness because I don't wanna lose steering wheel controls, but if this harness can be modified to allow that, I'm interested. Just want some clearer instructions. Thanks.
 
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