My install experience - long writeup

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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 01:39 AM
  #61  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by swiftvision
Please explain the rear vents issue. I don't follow you.

You said you covered them up with foil, but in the pics it doesn't look like that. Also explain the AC filter thing? Whats there now? Whats the point of the filters?

I'm confused.
I originally was going to cover them with Dynamat but I read quite a few post that said to not do that. Those vents are there to equalize the pressure inside the cab when shutting the doors and running the AC/heater.

If the vents are completely sealed off then the doors may not shut easily and there may be whistles when the AC is on high.

Using furnace filter was my attempt to try and slow the air thereby keeping the vent flaps from making a lot of noise. With a single 10 sub it worked well.

Since I upgraded to dual SI BM MKIIIs those vent are flapping like crazy. I can barely hear them in the cab but standing on the outside they are annoying.

I read where someone took a bed sheet and taped it over the vents. I might try that next.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:34 PM
  #62  
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Isn't the goal to seal up the cab for maximium bass presure? I am putting in two JL 10W3V3's in a few weeks.

What to do.......
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #63  
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I covered one of the vents and half of the other. No AC issues, much less road noise.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by mSaLL150
I covered one of the vents and half of the other. No AC issues, much less road noise.
x2 and that's exactly what I did in my '08.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 12:26 AM
  #65  
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From: Austin, Tx
I still have a 12x12 piece of dynamat left. I will be giving that a try this weekend. Cover one completely and 1/2 of the other.

If mSaLL says it works then it works.

Thank goodness for the quick disconnects I used.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 01:08 AM
  #66  
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Good deal. Cover the passenger side completely, I found that one is the noisiest since the exhaust is right under it.

And I am not always right, trial and error should always be done on your own since my truck is different from yours.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 01:16 AM
  #67  
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I Covered both of them... 3 layers of audiowrap

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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #68  
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My 2010 F150 Platinum SCREW with Sony & Nav has the rear window motor and other crap back behind the seats. Installer hasn't been able to find a spot for the Kicker 350.4 amp that allows seats to fully fold up. In all these posts and pics I am not sure I've seen anyone fit an amp into this platinum configuration. Seems there's always more room back there in these pics than what my platinum has. Can someone point me to a post that shows a loaded Platinum peacefully coexisting with an amp AND allowing the seats to fully fold up? Installeris going to mount amp on the floor otherwise, which I do not want if at all possible. Thanks for any guidance!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #69  
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Is there much more stuff on the backwall of a 2011 than on the 04-08? If I can fit 4 amps plus the window motor, I don't understand how fitting just one amp is that difficult.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #70  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by heckvr4
I Covered both of them... 3 layers of audiowrap
nice blow through. Details please
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #71  
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I couldn't fit my amps....either of them back there. The problem isn't alot of stuff already mounted there, it's the size of the area behind the seat. With them folded down, it seems like it would have plenty of space, but when the seat bottoms are folded back up the space back there gets much thinner......about the width of your fingers. The back seat is just mounted so close to the back wall, there isn't really any room.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 11:36 PM
  #72  
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From: Austin, Tx
Both of my amps are running parallel along the bottom of the back wall.

On the passenger side I have the Sundown SAZ-1000D and the 40 seat folds up no problem.

On the driver side I have the Clarion XH5410 and the 60 seat will almost go up. There is a metal support on the back on the 60 seat that is just touching one of the Clarion end caps. I can gring the metal on the back of the seat down or take the end caps off the amp. I am going to try the endcaps first and see if the seat raises up.


Right now it doesn't really matter because I have two car seat back there. That makes it a real pain to take them out just to raise the seats.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 11:48 PM
  #73  
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by mSaLL150
Is there much more stuff on the backwall of a 2011 than on the 04-08? If I can fit 4 amps plus the window motor, I don't understand how fitting just one amp is that difficult.
Yes, there is. It's ridiculous back there on the Platinum at least. Installers put these amps in all day long and have literally spent two days now trying to make one amp fit. Another complicating factor is that the platinums have a separate amp under the center console, so modules like the PAC AOEM-FRD24 don't solve the install-without-cutting problem at all. Someone from PAC or equivalent needs to look at a harness that accounts for this. Overall this has been a huge PITA project, much more work than anticipated and not well covered by any posting I've found in 15+ hours of research. Not complaining about all about all the great info, just frustrated and tired.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 12:14 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by tdel10
But remember, you can only mount the crossovers remotely *IF* you are also running new pulls of speaker wire to the front doors! If you are planning on using both sides of the BT-5520 harness, you pretty much have to mount the crossovers in the door pockets, and drill a hole to route the wire through. The first thing I'd check to is to see if you have molex connectors or pass through boots in the doors. Then decide what you are going to do from there.
I'm installing Polk Audio speakers in my doors and they come with crossovers. In the front doors all I did was velcro the crossovers to the inside of the door trim panel down at the bottom fwd edge just in front of the door pocket and ran the wires through the vapor barrier below the speaker. They work fine there. They are 3 1/2" x 2 5/8" x 1". I'm going to install the rear speakers tomorrow so I hope I can do something similar there. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 01:39 AM
  #75  
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From: Austin, Tx
Well my last little bit on Dynamat was enought to cover about 85% of the passenger side air vent. Helps but those things are still flapping like crazy.

Also, I hearing things vibrate that used to not. I swear there is something inside the dash making a resonace. It might be the crap in I have in the console though. Fingernail clippers, big ole tactical folder, pens, loose change. All of that just vibrates to hell.

Gotta love the MKIIIs.

On a side note. mSaLL150, I am thing about changing out the midrange Focal 165VRs while leaving the Focal tweets. I have no problems going active I need to. I don't think I can go 3 way without a lot of custom work and I don't want to get into that right now.

Do you have any recommendations on a really solid set of midrange for a 2way? Something musical with enough uhmph to support the 2 MKIIIs.

I know you had the ID OEMs and tried the Anarchys, but they didn't fit, and now have the H-Audio PP6.5. I was thinking HAT Legatia L6's, Scan-speaks, SEAS, or something alone those lines. I was even thinking just going with Focal K2P mids.

However, I did find a BNIB set of H-Audio PP6.5 for $200 on DIY.
 
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