My install experience - long writeup
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Grand Prairie, Texas
I will see if I can help out on this.
I used 1/2 MDF. HomeDepot has 2x4 sheets for $10.
I would use a grounding distro block. Just because it makes wire routing much more efficient.
By running all wiring behind the amp rack you are limited by the raised support structure that is 13.5 inches from the bottom and goes to 16 inches up. Trying to keep the power and ground below 13.5 inches can be a challenge but is neccessary to have a clean mount.
Speaker and rcas not so much a problem. A little channel routing behind the amp rack and they can pass over the support beam. Look at where I have my LC6i mounted. Those RCA are well above the support. I have a routed out channel they pass through to get below the rear seat belt mechanism. There is another channel routed out on the amp side to get the RCAs above the mount support and to the amps.
One of my other attemps had all three amps mounted vertically and it was a fail. I ran out of room for the power and ground.
I would recommend putting your two Sundowns along the bottom of the rack like I have my Clarion. I know for a fact this will allow you to raise your seats without issues. With them mounted vertically, like I have them now, the top of the seat hits when raising. Not a big deal for me because I have two car seats in at all times anyway.
To make things easier you might want to trim the seat belt bolts down. I used a Dremel and fiber cutoff wheel and it only took a few minutes. Otherwise it will scratch the crap out of everything.
The back of the board, I have to say, is not as clean as the front. I have everything mounted and tied down with zip ties with screw mounts, Stinger power routing plastic things, 1/2 and 3/8 screw clamp things, plastic zip tie adhesive mounts and what every else works.
Everything other than my power and ground are on Anderson PowerPole quick disconnects. I can have the entire amp board out of the truck in less than 5 minutes.
On the back wall I have all cables zip tied using the same plastic adhesive mounts. I bought a hundred of them from monoprice.com and while back and they work really well. Even sticks to the deadner on the back wall.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Here are my items from Darvex for this go round. I have quite a few extra pieces left over because I redid this thing three times and I still don't like it.
One thing on the grommets. I used Knukonceptz wire and they sell grommets. All the grommets used for the 1/0 and 4ga power/ground where bought from Knu. All the ones below are for everything else: RCA, speaker, high level inputs, remote turn on, 12ga power/ground to LC6i.
If I missed anything or I need to explain in further detail I am here to help.
I used 1/2 MDF. HomeDepot has 2x4 sheets for $10.
I would use a grounding distro block. Just because it makes wire routing much more efficient.
By running all wiring behind the amp rack you are limited by the raised support structure that is 13.5 inches from the bottom and goes to 16 inches up. Trying to keep the power and ground below 13.5 inches can be a challenge but is neccessary to have a clean mount.
Speaker and rcas not so much a problem. A little channel routing behind the amp rack and they can pass over the support beam. Look at where I have my LC6i mounted. Those RCA are well above the support. I have a routed out channel they pass through to get below the rear seat belt mechanism. There is another channel routed out on the amp side to get the RCAs above the mount support and to the amps.
One of my other attemps had all three amps mounted vertically and it was a fail. I ran out of room for the power and ground.
I would recommend putting your two Sundowns along the bottom of the rack like I have my Clarion. I know for a fact this will allow you to raise your seats without issues. With them mounted vertically, like I have them now, the top of the seat hits when raising. Not a big deal for me because I have two car seats in at all times anyway.
To make things easier you might want to trim the seat belt bolts down. I used a Dremel and fiber cutoff wheel and it only took a few minutes. Otherwise it will scratch the crap out of everything.
The back of the board, I have to say, is not as clean as the front. I have everything mounted and tied down with zip ties with screw mounts, Stinger power routing plastic things, 1/2 and 3/8 screw clamp things, plastic zip tie adhesive mounts and what every else works.
Everything other than my power and ground are on Anderson PowerPole quick disconnects. I can have the entire amp board out of the truck in less than 5 minutes.
On the back wall I have all cables zip tied using the same plastic adhesive mounts. I bought a hundred of them from monoprice.com and while back and they work really well. Even sticks to the deadner on the back wall.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Here are my items from Darvex for this go round. I have quite a few extra pieces left over because I redid this thing three times and I still don't like it.
One thing on the grommets. I used Knukonceptz wire and they sell grommets. All the grommets used for the 1/0 and 4ga power/ground where bought from Knu. All the ones below are for everything else: RCA, speaker, high level inputs, remote turn on, 12ga power/ground to LC6i.
If I missed anything or I need to explain in further detail I am here to help.
Can you explain the assembly process. Assembled outside truck and moved in?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 327
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From: Austin, Tx
hehe! 
What kind of EQ options do you have? Any plans for a more intricate digital sound processor? Active is cool, but without time-alignment and many bands of EQ per channel you are really missing out on potential of your system. For your 3-way system, you could pick up a RF 3sixty.2 fairly cheap and it will blow your mind what kind of sound you can get. If you have extra monies then the Zapco DSP6 is friggin awesome and you can tune everything from your laptop using RTA, etc.
What kind of EQ options do you have? Any plans for a more intricate digital sound processor? Active is cool, but without time-alignment and many bands of EQ per channel you are really missing out on potential of your system. For your 3-way system, you could pick up a RF 3sixty.2 fairly cheap and it will blow your mind what kind of sound you can get. If you have extra monies then the Zapco DSP6 is friggin awesome and you can tune everything from your laptop using RTA, etc.
I have been looking at the 3sixty, MS-8, Bit 10. Hadn't even looked at the DSP6 until now and you are right that is awesome.
I really want to keep the stealth look. You think I could get away with the stock HU, LC6 as a Loc, and then a processor? It would be a real pain to tune with the extra gains but I figure it could be done.
Or would you recommend replacing the stock HU with something with sound processing built in. I think the only double din that has anything close is the Alpine INA-W910. But even that is limited. I could go single din HU with additional sound processor. Alpine 117 and 700/701. I don't think I would go Imprint.
I would hate to give up Synch and then have to mess with the PAC or Metra to get the steering wheel controls back. Seems like to much work.
Last edited by Langlowe; Aug 12, 2011 at 08:24 PM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 327
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
When I mount the amp rack the only connections I have to make are the main power and ground to the distribution blocks and all the quick connects.
Without the quick connects it will be a little more work feeding/connecting wires but that is how I would do it.
I don't have any pics of that process, sorry.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 703
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From: Grand Prairie, Texas
Yes, I assemble outside and then mount as a completed unit. I am able to do it quickly and easily by using the PowerPole connectors.
When I mount the amp rack the only connections I have to make are the main power and ground to the distribution blocks and all the quick connects.
Without the quick connects it will be a little more work feeding/connecting wires but that is how I would do it.
I don't have any pics of that process, sorry.
When I mount the amp rack the only connections I have to make are the main power and ground to the distribution blocks and all the quick connects.
Without the quick connects it will be a little more work feeding/connecting wires but that is how I would do it.
I don't have any pics of that process, sorry.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
From: Grand Prairie, Texas
Nevermind...I read on DIYMA you use the anderson powerpoles for your speaker connections. What size anderson pole did you use for the speakers?
Like would this work: http://cgi.ebay.com/Anderson-Powerpo...item563860deec
Like would this work: http://cgi.ebay.com/Anderson-Powerpo...item563860deec
Last edited by pylda; Aug 12, 2011 at 09:45 PM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 327
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Here is the company I ordered from. I used 15s for the normal 16 gauge speaker runs and 30s for the 12 gauge sub runs. The cool thing with the 15s is the colors that can be used. Makes it real easy to label the speaker wires.
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...d-housing.html
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...d-housing.html
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,862
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
That is my problem. Currently I have nothing other than stock signal.
I have been looking at the 3sixty, MS-8, Bit 10. Hadn't even looked at the DSP6 until now and you are right that is awesome.
I really want to keep the stealth look. You think I could get away with the stock HU, LC6 as a Loc, and then a processor? It would be a real pain to tune with the extra gains but I figure it could be done.
Or would you recommend replacing the stock HU with something with sound processing built in. I think the only double din that has anything close is the Alpine INA-W910. But even that is limited. I could go single din HU with additional sound processor. Alpine 117 and 700/701. I don't think I would go Imprint.
I would hate to give up Synch and then have to mess with the PAC or Metra to get the steering wheel controls back. Seems like to much work.
I have been looking at the 3sixty, MS-8, Bit 10. Hadn't even looked at the DSP6 until now and you are right that is awesome.
I really want to keep the stealth look. You think I could get away with the stock HU, LC6 as a Loc, and then a processor? It would be a real pain to tune with the extra gains but I figure it could be done.
Or would you recommend replacing the stock HU with something with sound processing built in. I think the only double din that has anything close is the Alpine INA-W910. But even that is limited. I could go single din HU with additional sound processor. Alpine 117 and 700/701. I don't think I would go Imprint.
I would hate to give up Synch and then have to mess with the PAC or Metra to get the steering wheel controls back. Seems like to much work.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 93
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From: Chicago
Langlowe you could always look into the Audiocontrol equalizers. I cant remember which one but it would go inline after your LC6i. Ive thought about this for mine as well, but not wanting to dish the cash for it.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Northern California
Equalizers can only do so much. With the poor speaker placement in the F150 and the horrible PLDs (path length difference) from left to right, you really need a solid amount of time delay to get decent imaging. If you're gonna drop the coin, get a unit that can do it all.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 93
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From: Chicago
Equalizers can only do so much. With the poor speaker placement in the F150 and the horrible PLDs (path length difference) from left to right, you really need a solid amount of time delay to get decent imaging. If you're gonna drop the coin, get a unit that can do it all.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Northern California
With a fully tuned system with proper speaker placement, aiming, EQ, and spot on time delay, your dash becomes a stage. Imaging is the image of each specific instrument, and the sound is so crisp and perfect that you can pick out different instruments on parts of your dash. Now all recordings are different, but usually the drummer sits center stage...so in my truck it sounds like the kick drum is pumping away out on the middle of the hood with the symbols up near the center rear-view. Base guitar will be in a different spot from electric guitar, multiple vocalists can be picked out in different spots on the dash. Its hard to really explain, but once you sit in a vehicle with it you will see...and you will WANT! 
Without this tuning, it just sounds like a jumble of sound coming from down in the doors...usually more from the left since that speaker is far closer to the driver than the right side speaker.
Without this tuning, it just sounds like a jumble of sound coming from down in the doors...usually more from the left since that speaker is far closer to the driver than the right side speaker.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Grand Prairie, Texas
mSall...what are you running in your truck now? I went with the ID components that you told me about, and love them! just wondering what you would suggest as my next step in regards to front components.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Northern California
As for my speakers, I use Scanspeak d3004 tweeters, Audible Physics midwoofers and the SI BMs.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Austin, Tx
I am lucky in that without any processing the sound is at least dash height. I attribute that to the tweeters being crossed lower than 4000 and located in the sail. Being on the sail has its own inherent problems but IMO is a better solution than down low.
Now if I could come up with something to point the tweeters up towards the rear view mirror I would have something. I could cut then paint some PVC on a bevel to get the tweeters going up but that would look pretty ghetto. I am not a fit and finish guy.
I need lots of TA and EQ, especially around 40hz, to get where I want.
I also don't have the depth that I want. My soundstage is probably center dash, which is almost a joke. I want it way out on the hood just like you mentioned.
mSall,
Do you run one one side or the other out of phase? I was thinking about giving that a shot on the drivers side. Poor man's TA or at least that is what I have read.
Now if I could come up with something to point the tweeters up towards the rear view mirror I would have something. I could cut then paint some PVC on a bevel to get the tweeters going up but that would look pretty ghetto. I am not a fit and finish guy.
I need lots of TA and EQ, especially around 40hz, to get where I want.
I also don't have the depth that I want. My soundstage is probably center dash, which is almost a joke. I want it way out on the hood just like you mentioned.
mSall,
Do you run one one side or the other out of phase? I was thinking about giving that a shot on the drivers side. Poor man's TA or at least that is what I have read.