How do I explain this.

The two black BT connectors are a matching male and female. There are 4 wires that go between them.

I pulled those 4 wires out and plugged the BT connectors together. This makes the whole harness complete.

From there just cut the speaker wires between the male and female ends of the Metra factory gray connectors. It is really easy with the Metra harness because the speaker wires are labeled.

For the 2010 even though the Metra harness speaker wires were not the same color as the factory they were correct in the way they were labeled.

Once you cut the Metra speaker leads you can splice into the end closest to the factory head unit and send those to your high level inputs on a amp, LOC, or OEM sound processor. The other ends of speaker leads now go to the speakers themselves.

If you don't want to mess with running new speaker wire you could run from your amps back to the harness and feed your speakers.

Trust me on this fellas. I was really worried about this part. It just didn't make sense from looking at how other people had done it.

Once I actually had the harness in hand it all became crystal clear.

Just plug the two black BT connectors and then cut the speaker leads. From there the harness connects between the factory head unit and the factory plugs.

 

Lang I want more thoughts on the BMs and how they compare to your previous setup. Please, remind the "underseat" world know what they are missing out on.

 

I am heading out of town for an extended weekend with the family.

When I get back I will take more pictures, make a video, and give my impressions on the BMs.

In short I would have never imagined that I could get that kind of sound from that small of space. I thought the single Image Dynamics ID10 was nice, and it was, but the BMs blow it out of the water. I don't believe two ID10s would compare to a single BMs.

 

I emailed Metra several months ago and they told me that to retain steering wheel controls I would need another harness, not the BT-5520. The one they told me that I would need would cost $180. But your not having any issues with all the steering wheel controls working with the 5520?

 

for my 2010 with stock single cd basic radio I have full use of all steering wheel controls and Synch using the BT-5220.

It had wires in place for every wire on the factory harness.

I wonder why they are saying you need the steering wheel interface. I paid $32, not including shipping, for my BT-5220. I ordered from a friend who is a master distributer and has an account with Metra.

 

Money money money. Easy answer. $180 > $32.

Where did you get your carpeting Lang? Also, it looks like you've installed some kind of grommet into your MDF where the wires go. I like how clean that looks, but I haven't come across anything similar.

 

Don't laugh but I got the carpet at Autozone. I was going to use vinyl but my buddy that I was going to get it from couldn't find it so I had to improvise.

The grommets I got from KnuKonceptz when I ordered the 4ga.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...%20Accessories

I have since found them in a lot of different sizes at a online electrical supply house. The are made by the same company as the ones from KnuKonceptz.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...=1&searchBox=1

 

Thanks. We don't have an Autozone here in Alaska, but we do have a Napa and a Shucks/O/Reilley, or whatever it's called. That place changes names 5 times a month it seems.

Also: is that black padding on the inside of your doors sound deading material, or is that what the vapor barrier looks like on the 09's and up? It's obviously not Dynamat, but it looks like the sound dampening sheets I've seen used in server racks while BS'ing with the IT guys.

 

I've searched all over these forums to see if I can keep using sync with the BT-5520. Your the first person to say that your sync works. You made my night.

 

It actually is the factory vapor barrier. I haven't deadend the doors yet but is on my short list when it warms up a little more.

To be honest I am not sure if I should keep that vapor barrier after using deadner and the foam with vinyl back. I don't see where the vapor barrier would hurt anything although it might cause a buzzing.

Speaking of buzzing, I seem to have recently shook some stuff loose in the dash after the change to the x2 SI BM MKIII subs. They are brutal.

 

Excellant job on the install!! Without reading through the entire thread can you confirm the locations of your door speaker crossovers? It appears that the crossovers for the back speakers are located on the amp board behind the rear seat, and I thought I caught a glimps of the fronts in the door pockets. I'm trying to advoid using the front door pockets, but it almost seems as if there is no choice.

 

Front speaker crossovers are indeed on the amp board in the top left corner.

For rear fill I am running Focal coaxials which do not have external crossovers.

 

Great Job... I'm in the process of upgrading my system and have picked up alot of ideals from your work. Thanks for all of the posting, also, if its ok.. I may shout your way for some help if I run into some problems... Again... Great install... can't wait to hear what it sounds like with the new sub...

 

Please explain the rear vents issue. I don't follow you.

You said you covered them up with foil, but in the pics it doesn't look like that. Also explain the AC filter thing? Whats there now? Whats the point of the filters?

I'm confused.

 

But remember, you can only mount the crossovers remotely *IF* you are also running new pulls of speaker wire to the front doors! If you are planning on using both sides of the BT-5520 harness, you pretty much have to mount the crossovers in the door pockets, and drill a hole to route the wire through. The first thing I'd check to is to see if you have molex connectors or pass through boots in the doors. Then decide what you are going to do from there.