DarrenWS6's 2007 Lariat Supercrew
Thanks everyone!
You got it!
I sanded the texture smooth with 400 grit paper, and finished it with 1000 grit, all dry, and 5+ hours invested. Sucked! . Good prep makes for a fantastic product though. I get generous discounts on paint work from the local dealerships body shop manager, $60.00 out the door painted and cleared. Probably $80 - $100 avg anywhere else. Sanding it yourself cuts down costs very much.
Quite possibly you can. I would sell it for a pinch over book value with current mods. Otherwise, I would sell for below book value if I keep my Harley Davidson grill ( replace with H bar ), put the stock wheel/tires back on ( pictured here ), and keep my Gryphon programmer. Otherwise it could keep everything else.
N.A.D.A Guides retail says $21,757 clean retail, $18,125 clean trade.
If you want to check for yourself, its an 07 supercrew lariat 4wd with 117,430 miles, audiophile, black leather interior, moonroof, tow pkg, bedrug bedliner. I don't want to sell it with erge, but I would probably sell it so I can get up in a newer truck. I am in no ways emotionally attached to it, its just a fun object to own.
You got it!
. Good prep makes for a fantastic product though. I get generous discounts on paint work from the local dealerships body shop manager, $60.00 out the door painted and cleared. Probably $80 - $100 avg anywhere else. Sanding it yourself cuts down costs very much.Quite possibly you can. I would sell it for a pinch over book value with current mods. Otherwise, I would sell for below book value if I keep my Harley Davidson grill ( replace with H bar ), put the stock wheel/tires back on ( pictured here ), and keep my Gryphon programmer. Otherwise it could keep everything else.
N.A.D.A Guides retail says $21,757 clean retail, $18,125 clean trade.
If you want to check for yourself, its an 07 supercrew lariat 4wd with 117,430 miles, audiophile, black leather interior, moonroof, tow pkg, bedrug bedliner. I don't want to sell it with erge, but I would probably sell it so I can get up in a newer truck. I am in no ways emotionally attached to it, its just a fun object to own.
It has been months since I had updated with anything here. Finally got a little bit of work done since summer. Currently at 120,3xx miles.
My main goal since summer has been to get ball joints and Nitto Trail Grapplers on. My Toyos 52,000 miles finally are at their retirement. Set in 33x12.5/20, best tires I ever had. What a great tire. I have wanted the Trail Grappler in 295/60-R20 since they came out as they measure out to 34.5x12.10 ( 33.5x12.20 with truck weight ) making it the perfect size tire for a leveled 4wd, in my opinion.
Lets get into it. I dropped it off at the Ford dealer since I decided against doing my own ball joint work ( i'm a b**ch I know ) on Dec 10th, they got to work on it on the 11th.
What I wanted was,
-my set of Nitto Trail Grapplers in 295/60-R20 that have sat since July, to be installed with a set of OEM Motorcraft TPMS sensors ( bought from fine_style150 last year ).
-my Moog Suspension Problem Solver UCAs and lower ball joints to be installed. ( Thanks again mSall for the UCAs last spring! )
-alignment.
-inspection.
Unfortunate news during the process,
-Front left wheel bearing is needed.
-Camber adjustment bolts were needed.
So I told them order the camber stuff but said no for the bearing as they want $340 for a Motorcraft hub and $150 installed... It is a half hour job on each side, i'm doing it myself with a Moog #515079 hub. After that, taking it back for alignment, and finalize inspection after they give the wheel the shake test. I'll replace passenger side bearing later this spring when money should be better.
Needless to say I got it back today after the $690 bill, the girlfriend drove it back. Snow storms coming this week, even with a not so perfect alignment, 4wd is better than risking it in the little car. But I just ordered the Moog wheel bearing on Summit, expecting it for Tuesday if its anything like when I ordered the ball joints. Feels very bouncy on the new ball joints, not used to this smooth of a ride either, going to be even better after alignment! It only rubs my mud splash guards at full lock, otherwise, they would not rub at all. I will end up trimming the back corners of them later on.
Some Instagramed photos from my phone to satisfy your eyes for now.
Here is a before shot after installing the Rancho kit with the rubber band thin 33x12.5s
I also had a leaking manifold for awhile, so I bought a Dorman replacement, and replaced my pinion seal back in summer. Next plan is to put the wheel bearing in, take it back to finish inspection, and get an alignment.
My main goal since summer has been to get ball joints and Nitto Trail Grapplers on. My Toyos 52,000 miles finally are at their retirement. Set in 33x12.5/20, best tires I ever had. What a great tire. I have wanted the Trail Grappler in 295/60-R20 since they came out as they measure out to 34.5x12.10 ( 33.5x12.20 with truck weight ) making it the perfect size tire for a leveled 4wd, in my opinion.
Lets get into it. I dropped it off at the Ford dealer since I decided against doing my own ball joint work ( i'm a b**ch I know
) on Dec 10th, they got to work on it on the 11th.What I wanted was,
-my set of Nitto Trail Grapplers in 295/60-R20 that have sat since July, to be installed with a set of OEM Motorcraft TPMS sensors ( bought from fine_style150 last year ).
-my Moog Suspension Problem Solver UCAs and lower ball joints to be installed. ( Thanks again mSall for the UCAs last spring! )
-alignment.
-inspection.
Unfortunate news during the process,
-Front left wheel bearing is needed.
-Camber adjustment bolts were needed.
So I told them order the camber stuff but said no for the bearing as they want $340 for a Motorcraft hub and $150 installed... It is a half hour job on each side, i'm doing it myself with a Moog #515079 hub. After that, taking it back for alignment, and finalize inspection after they give the wheel the shake test. I'll replace passenger side bearing later this spring when money should be better.
Needless to say I got it back today after the $690 bill, the girlfriend drove it back. Snow storms coming this week, even with a not so perfect alignment, 4wd is better than risking it in the little car. But I just ordered the Moog wheel bearing on Summit, expecting it for Tuesday if its anything like when I ordered the ball joints. Feels very bouncy on the new ball joints, not used to this smooth of a ride either, going to be even better after alignment! It only rubs my mud splash guards at full lock, otherwise, they would not rub at all. I will end up trimming the back corners of them later on.
Some Instagramed photos from my phone to satisfy your eyes for now.
Here is a before shot after installing the Rancho kit with the rubber band thin 33x12.5s
I also had a leaking manifold for awhile, so I bought a Dorman replacement, and replaced my pinion seal back in summer. Next plan is to put the wheel bearing in, take it back to finish inspection, and get an alignment.
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Fort Walton Beach, Florida
Actually you pop out the button and the screw is under there. remove screw, pull up handle to slide off, reverse to install new one, reuse your old button on new handle so don't scratch it up when you pop it out. Entire job takes about 30 seconds, a little less if you don't down a six pack while your working.
The LT handle has the leather and stitching already there, including the new chrome cap on top. It comes pre-assembled and ready to bolt on and even has a new plastic c-clip to hold in the button cause chances are you will break the old clip when you pull out the button.
1. Put shifter in L1
2. grab bottom of button and pull out
DRINK ADULT BEVERAGE
3. slide a small flat screwdriver up into the gap behind the button
4. pry out button being careful not to scratch the chrome plating on button
DRINK ADULT BEVERAGE
5. remove T-15 torx head screw
DRINK ADULT BEVERAGE
6. slide up handle to remove
7. drop new handle onto shifter
DRINK MORE BEVERAGE
8. replace screw
DRINK AGAIN
9. replace button, DONE
FINISH OFF SIX PACK
total elapsed time-about 30 seconds, maybe 17 if you lay off the beer until the job is done.
The LT handle has the leather and stitching already there, including the new chrome cap on top. It comes pre-assembled and ready to bolt on and even has a new plastic c-clip to hold in the button cause chances are you will break the old clip when you pull out the button.
1. Put shifter in L1
2. grab bottom of button and pull out
DRINK ADULT BEVERAGE
3. slide a small flat screwdriver up into the gap behind the button
4. pry out button being careful not to scratch the chrome plating on button
DRINK ADULT BEVERAGE
5. remove T-15 torx head screw
DRINK ADULT BEVERAGE
6. slide up handle to remove
7. drop new handle onto shifter
DRINK MORE BEVERAGE
8. replace screw
DRINK AGAIN
9. replace button, DONE
FINISH OFF SIX PACK
total elapsed time-about 30 seconds, maybe 17 if you lay off the beer until the job is done.
Hahahahaha....Nail. Head. Hit. I think this has a similar pattern to almost any DIY upgrade...or "honey do list" item for that matter.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
From: Montgomery PA
Looks good Darren!! Looks to good to be driving in incliment weather lol. Im about 45min south of you, cant wait for the snow to melt and the roads to dry up. Tired of washing my truck every other day! Not sure if I missed anything but are you getting rid of the chrome nerfs and going black? That is about the only chrome you have left minus the door handles.
Yep! No more TPMS light and I have two sets of wheels with programmed sensors now 
.
I got very lucky, trucks been in my garage since I got it back. Girlfriend wasn't working yesterday so I was able to take her truck ( her suggestion to keep mine cleaned and keep parked without alignment ) and today now that everything is plowed I got my far out.
That's cool, could do a meet up sometime! Do you go to the 4 wheel Jamboree in Bloomsburg in July? I don't want to get black step bars but I do want OEM aluminum finish 4" ones that came on most Lariats. I want to do a straight up trade for my 5" oval ones as they are in very decent shape and considered the highest option step board. I just think they are too bulky and the thinner side on the 4" wide ones looks perfect to match the badges and handles. Know anyone down your way possibly? Here is my wanted ad. https://www.f150online.com/forums/pa...ing-trade.html
Nice truck you have too man!
.Looks good Darren!! Looks to good to be driving in incliment weather lol. Im about 45min south of you, cant wait for the snow to melt and the roads to dry up. Tired of washing my truck every other day! Not sure if I missed anything but are you getting rid of the chrome nerfs and going black? That is about the only chrome you have left minus the door handles.
That's cool, could do a meet up sometime! Do you go to the 4 wheel Jamboree in Bloomsburg in July? I don't want to get black step bars but I do want OEM aluminum finish 4" ones that came on most Lariats. I want to do a straight up trade for my 5" oval ones as they are in very decent shape and considered the highest option step board. I just think they are too bulky and the thinner side on the 4" wide ones looks perfect to match the badges and handles. Know anyone down your way possibly? Here is my wanted ad. https://www.f150online.com/forums/pa...ing-trade.html
Nice truck you have too man!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
It has been months since I had updated with anything here. Finally got a little bit of work done since summer. Currently at 120,3xx miles.
My main goal since summer has been to get ball joints and Nitto Trail Grapplers on. My Toyos 52,000 miles finally are at their retirement. Set in 33x12.5/20, best tires I ever had. What a great tire. I have wanted the Trail Grappler in 295/60-R20 since they came out as they measure out to 34.5x12.10 ( 33.5x12.20 with truck weight ) making it the perfect size tire for a leveled 4wd, in my opinion.
Lets get into it. I dropped it off at the Ford dealer since I decided against doing my own ball joint work ( i'm a b**ch I know ) on Dec 10th, they got to work on it on the 11th.
What I wanted was,
-my set of Nitto Trail Grapplers in 295/60-R20 that have sat since July, to be installed with a set of OEM Motorcraft TPMS sensors ( bought from fine_style150 last year ).
-my Moog Suspension Problem Solver UCAs and lower ball joints to be installed. ( Thanks again mSall for the UCAs last spring! )
-alignment.
-inspection.
Unfortunate news during the process,
-Front left wheel bearing is needed.
-Camber adjustment bolts were needed.
So I told them order the camber stuff but said no for the bearing as they want $340 for a Motorcraft hub and $150 installed... It is a half hour job on each side, i'm doing it myself with a Moog #515079 hub. After that, taking it back for alignment, and finalize inspection after they give the wheel the shake test. I'll replace passenger side bearing later this spring when money should be better.
Needless to say I got it back today after the $690 bill, the girlfriend drove it back. Snow storms coming this week, even with a not so perfect alignment, 4wd is better than risking it in the little car. But I just ordered the Moog wheel bearing on Summit, expecting it for Tuesday if its anything like when I ordered the ball joints. Feels very bouncy on the new ball joints, not used to this smooth of a ride either, going to be even better after alignment! It only rubs my mud splash guards at full lock, otherwise, they would not rub at all. I will end up trimming the back corners of them later on.
Some Instagramed photos from my phone to satisfy your eyes for now.
Here is a before shot after installing the Rancho kit with the rubber band thin 33x12.5s
I also had a leaking manifold for awhile, so I bought a Dorman replacement, and replaced my pinion seal back in summer. Next plan is to put the wheel bearing in, take it back to finish inspection, and get an alignment.
My main goal since summer has been to get ball joints and Nitto Trail Grapplers on. My Toyos 52,000 miles finally are at their retirement. Set in 33x12.5/20, best tires I ever had. What a great tire. I have wanted the Trail Grappler in 295/60-R20 since they came out as they measure out to 34.5x12.10 ( 33.5x12.20 with truck weight ) making it the perfect size tire for a leveled 4wd, in my opinion.
Lets get into it. I dropped it off at the Ford dealer since I decided against doing my own ball joint work ( i'm a b**ch I know
) on Dec 10th, they got to work on it on the 11th.What I wanted was,
-my set of Nitto Trail Grapplers in 295/60-R20 that have sat since July, to be installed with a set of OEM Motorcraft TPMS sensors ( bought from fine_style150 last year ).
-my Moog Suspension Problem Solver UCAs and lower ball joints to be installed. ( Thanks again mSall for the UCAs last spring! )
-alignment.
-inspection.
Unfortunate news during the process,
-Front left wheel bearing is needed.
-Camber adjustment bolts were needed.
So I told them order the camber stuff but said no for the bearing as they want $340 for a Motorcraft hub and $150 installed... It is a half hour job on each side, i'm doing it myself with a Moog #515079 hub. After that, taking it back for alignment, and finalize inspection after they give the wheel the shake test. I'll replace passenger side bearing later this spring when money should be better.
Needless to say I got it back today after the $690 bill, the girlfriend drove it back. Snow storms coming this week, even with a not so perfect alignment, 4wd is better than risking it in the little car. But I just ordered the Moog wheel bearing on Summit, expecting it for Tuesday if its anything like when I ordered the ball joints. Feels very bouncy on the new ball joints, not used to this smooth of a ride either, going to be even better after alignment! It only rubs my mud splash guards at full lock, otherwise, they would not rub at all. I will end up trimming the back corners of them later on.
Some Instagramed photos from my phone to satisfy your eyes for now.
Here is a before shot after installing the Rancho kit with the rubber band thin 33x12.5s
I also had a leaking manifold for awhile, so I bought a Dorman replacement, and replaced my pinion seal back in summer. Next plan is to put the wheel bearing in, take it back to finish inspection, and get an alignment.
I rotated the Toyos every 6k miles, fronts to back, backs to front, no directional change. 40 psi at all times, 45 when taking planned highway trips.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Thanks! Its a bit early to tell especially with the truck out of alignment, but it already feels smoother and 'leveled' feeling, by that I mean how the other set had a couple tires that wore on the outsides from ball joints & the wheel bearing being bad. There is a lot more turning response and there feels like there is some actual tread to rely on.
I rotated the Toyos every 6k miles, fronts to back, backs to front, no directional change. 40 psi at all times, 45 when taking planned highway trips.
I rotated the Toyos every 6k miles, fronts to back, backs to front, no directional change. 40 psi at all times, 45 when taking planned highway trips.