rough idle/engine miss
01.12.2001: Had the day off so I went back to the dealer and asked for help again. This time I met with the problem resolution agent, he was very interested in fixing my problems with my F150, Well after 6 hours I get a call back and he informs me that a problem was found with the IAC and it was replaced. I picked the truck and was told that even though the truck will be out of warranty, if I have any further problems with the rough idle that they would take care of it. So we will see how it goes. I did want them to replace the EGR as well and that has not happened.
01.22.2001: The rough idle is much better, not perfect, and by that I mean that when the truck is idling normally. I do plan on going back to the dealer and explaining results. my hope is that they will replace the EGR for free. If not I am prepared to do it my self.
I am still thinking this has to be a vacume leak or malfunction....
visit home.pacbell.net/donw35/f150 for more info
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Don W
97 F150 4X4 XLT, ORP, Tow Package,
CD-Changer, K&N, B&M shift improver,
PIAA fog lights, Weld Rims 17", 265 70LT AT/S, Flowmaster 40 series 3" cat back.
f1504x4.hompeage.com
01.22.2001: The rough idle is much better, not perfect, and by that I mean that when the truck is idling normally. I do plan on going back to the dealer and explaining results. my hope is that they will replace the EGR for free. If not I am prepared to do it my self.
I am still thinking this has to be a vacume leak or malfunction....
visit home.pacbell.net/donw35/f150 for more info
------------------
Don W
97 F150 4X4 XLT, ORP, Tow Package,
CD-Changer, K&N, B&M shift improver,
PIAA fog lights, Weld Rims 17", 265 70LT AT/S, Flowmaster 40 series 3" cat back.
f1504x4.hompeage.com
The rough idle was not fixed by replacing the IAC valve, So back I go to the dealer, This time I want them to replace the EGR valve.
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Don W
97 F150 4X4 XLT, ORP, Tow Package,
CD-Changer, K&N, B&M shift improver,
PIAA fog lights, Weld Rims 17", 265 70LT AT/S, Flowmaster 40 series 3" cat back.
f1504x4.hompeage.com
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Don W
97 F150 4X4 XLT, ORP, Tow Package,
CD-Changer, K&N, B&M shift improver,
PIAA fog lights, Weld Rims 17", 265 70LT AT/S, Flowmaster 40 series 3" cat back.
f1504x4.hompeage.com
STILL HAVE NOTHING TO TELL YOU ALL ABOUT. THOUGHT BY CHANGING THE TYPE GASOLINE THAT THE IDLE MAY GET BETTER BUT THAT DIDNT HAPPEN. BEEN TOO BUSY TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER. BUT WILL BE CALLING ON THEM SOON. I WILL KEEP YOU ALL INFORMED.
I have only put enough miles on my truck to burn a little over a quarter tank (been gone to Colorado Skiing)-- I can't give a real good judgement yet. I should know more after this weekend. I will let everyone know what is going on with "red shakey"
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99 F-150 XLT 4X4, SC, SB, AT, 5.4, Single CD
3.55LS, Tow pkg, Rhino Liner, Sportsman topper,
Westin black double step bars, Custom gold pinstripe, Bright Red/Gold
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99 F-150 XLT 4X4, SC, SB, AT, 5.4, Single CD
3.55LS, Tow pkg, Rhino Liner, Sportsman topper,
Westin black double step bars, Custom gold pinstripe, Bright Red/Gold
I feel your pain on this one guys....mine was at Covert Ford in austin for 42 days replacing the first engine because it had bad compression in cylinders 3, 5, and 8. They replaced the engine and the technician locked up the new one two blocks from the dealership on a test drive. Horrible service but good luck guys.
Andrew....thank god for warranty!
Andrew....thank god for warranty!
Well count me in!
I have a used 1997 F150 4.6 with 95k mi. that i got with 65K mi. in late 1999. Shortly after purchase I noticed a rough idle. Then came the misfires first PO303 in the winter of 99 then PO308 in the winter of 00.
Replaced the plugs and affected wires.
Now I am bringing it in because the check engine light came on once again, and stayed on and blinks too! I noticed that this time the misfire happened on a 8hr long trip while accelerating and going up long hill. The "Check Engine" light came on and when the "misfire feeling" happend again during the trip the already on light would blink a few times and then stay lit again.
Today I was scared to drive it because it was missing and shaking so badly. I think only 6 plugs were working!
The ford dealer service will hook it up to get the codes and suggested that we might replace the coil pack and wire set, so I am looking at another $400 minimum with labor.
I think the 4.6L rough idle eventually leads to the misfires as engine ages.
I should have listened to my sister and brother who curse ford because of the problems they had with their fords. At least I sold my ford stock, because if this thread grows any larger they might be looking like firestone.
Any ideas on how to avoid putting good money after bad?
I have a used 1997 F150 4.6 with 95k mi. that i got with 65K mi. in late 1999. Shortly after purchase I noticed a rough idle. Then came the misfires first PO303 in the winter of 99 then PO308 in the winter of 00.
Replaced the plugs and affected wires.
Now I am bringing it in because the check engine light came on once again, and stayed on and blinks too! I noticed that this time the misfire happened on a 8hr long trip while accelerating and going up long hill. The "Check Engine" light came on and when the "misfire feeling" happend again during the trip the already on light would blink a few times and then stay lit again.
Today I was scared to drive it because it was missing and shaking so badly. I think only 6 plugs were working!
The ford dealer service will hook it up to get the codes and suggested that we might replace the coil pack and wire set, so I am looking at another $400 minimum with labor.
I think the 4.6L rough idle eventually leads to the misfires as engine ages.
I should have listened to my sister and brother who curse ford because of the problems they had with their fords. At least I sold my ford stock, because if this thread grows any larger they might be looking like firestone.
Any ideas on how to avoid putting good money after bad?
I too am experiencing a rough idle (sounds like a miss) in cold weather on my '97 F150 4.6L. Runs fine after I rev the engine and get the engine hot. With this in mind I checked the EGR valve. Unhooked the vacuum system to check for vacuum. The engine was hot (and therefore not running rough) so I didn't expect any vacuum on the line. True enough no vacuum. Then I placed a bit of hose on the valve and created vacuum with my mouth. This activated the EGR valve and lo' and behold the rough idle appeared.
I'm going to try to swap out the EGR valve and see if it fixes anything. The problem I'm having with this idea though is that the "Check Engine" light always comes on along with the rough idle. When I self-actuated the EGR valve I didn't get the "Check Engine" light. I'm thinking that the valve is opening too much and letting too much exhaust into the motor. Too much exhaust then starts to hinder the firing of the cylinders and thus causes the rough idle and sets the O2 sensor off due to a bad or incorrect exhaust/o2 mixture.
Another problem is that the EGR is controlled by umpteen scrillion sensors - all of which I have to check to make sure its not the problem. Fine and dandy to change the EGR, because thats whats causing the problem, but the real problem might be something else thats telling the EGR to fail.
How are the rest of you progressing with your rough idling?
I'm going to try to swap out the EGR valve and see if it fixes anything. The problem I'm having with this idea though is that the "Check Engine" light always comes on along with the rough idle. When I self-actuated the EGR valve I didn't get the "Check Engine" light. I'm thinking that the valve is opening too much and letting too much exhaust into the motor. Too much exhaust then starts to hinder the firing of the cylinders and thus causes the rough idle and sets the O2 sensor off due to a bad or incorrect exhaust/o2 mixture.
Another problem is that the EGR is controlled by umpteen scrillion sensors - all of which I have to check to make sure its not the problem. Fine and dandy to change the EGR, because thats whats causing the problem, but the real problem might be something else thats telling the EGR to fail.
How are the rest of you progressing with your rough idling?
jnc852,
Did your idle proble just sort of start? or did you have this problem since the truck was new. My problem existed since day one. -- with 30 miles on it-- I am not doubting your fix -- just that my EGR valve assy. would have to have been bad from the factory.
Another dealer is going to look at my problem next week. As soon as the service writer sat in the truck -- he said he could feel the rough idle -- maybe there is new hope!!
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99 F-150 XLT 4X4, SC, SB, AT, 5.4, Single CD
3.55LS, Tow pkg, Rhino Liner, Sportsman topper,
Westin black double step bars, Custom gold pinstripe, Bright Red/Gold
Did your idle proble just sort of start? or did you have this problem since the truck was new. My problem existed since day one. -- with 30 miles on it-- I am not doubting your fix -- just that my EGR valve assy. would have to have been bad from the factory.
Another dealer is going to look at my problem next week. As soon as the service writer sat in the truck -- he said he could feel the rough idle -- maybe there is new hope!!
------------------
99 F-150 XLT 4X4, SC, SB, AT, 5.4, Single CD
3.55LS, Tow pkg, Rhino Liner, Sportsman topper,
Westin black double step bars, Custom gold pinstripe, Bright Red/Gold
Rough idle just showed up. It happened the first time I pulled my Truck out of the heated garage into -20deg Celsius weather. Then about a week or two later it did it again, but this time after it had been sitting out in the cold all night. Ever since that day the truck ran like sh*t until I revved it up nice a good and got some temperature showing up. I put it into the garage and tinkered for a while - checking spark plugs and wires for a miss. Started it up and it ran fine. I pulled out of the garage into the cold and it started acting up again. So this told me that the truck's sensors were having difficulty adjusting to new temperatures. It clicked in my mind to check out the EGR valve and sure as heck the rough idle appeared everytime I engaged the valve (manually). So I tested all the sensors that control the EGR in order to eliminate them from the equation and was left to change out the EGR valve.
Took a day to arrive at the dealership and about half an hour to slap on.
Its really easy to do yourself, but when you take the old one off, try to preserve the graphite gasket ('cause new gaskets don't come with the part and cost $5.00 canadian).
Just as a further note: the EGR valve works on an analog basis (therefore its not just on or off - but rather adjusts precisely). So my feeling is that if you have the wrong tension on the valve pintle spring, then its going to throw everything out of whack and let either too much (which was my problem) or too little exhaust in with the air intake. The valve is pneumatic and is very sensitive. Therefore it is a very good possibility that your valve may have been faulty from the start, but is less likely than a faulty sensor somewhere else on the truck.
On an even further note: The new EGR valve that I received is a Ford product (just like the original) but its made different and has a different part number. Now a company doesn't just redesign a part for the fun of it. Obviously there is something wrong with the original design. Ford caught it and started making the new design. Perhaps ford knows about this little problem????
Anyways,
Time for bed.
Took a day to arrive at the dealership and about half an hour to slap on.
Its really easy to do yourself, but when you take the old one off, try to preserve the graphite gasket ('cause new gaskets don't come with the part and cost $5.00 canadian).
Just as a further note: the EGR valve works on an analog basis (therefore its not just on or off - but rather adjusts precisely). So my feeling is that if you have the wrong tension on the valve pintle spring, then its going to throw everything out of whack and let either too much (which was my problem) or too little exhaust in with the air intake. The valve is pneumatic and is very sensitive. Therefore it is a very good possibility that your valve may have been faulty from the start, but is less likely than a faulty sensor somewhere else on the truck.
On an even further note: The new EGR valve that I received is a Ford product (just like the original) but its made different and has a different part number. Now a company doesn't just redesign a part for the fun of it. Obviously there is something wrong with the original design. Ford caught it and started making the new design. Perhaps ford knows about this little problem????
Anyways,
Time for bed.
2.6.2001, After getting the truck back for the dealer they told me that they could dup the problem, I asked them to change the EGR and they would not, I even talk to the manager and he told they cannot just start changing things to see what happens. So, I bought a EGR valve ($57) and replaced it myself, I did notice that it has a new part number and is designed differently. As of this date, the problem is gone.
If your truck is out of warrenty, just replace the EGR valve and move on. It takes less time then fighting with the dealer, Four times at the dealer and them having the truck all day. My experience with the Ford techncians is that they are not very technical and have to see it rough idle for them selfs, even then they will probably miss diag the problem and sell you a new ash try.
The EGR is not hard to replace, takes about 1/2 hour, make sure you get the gasket with it. Losen the pipe that comes up from the header first, then crack the two bolts holding it to the plenium, then just unscreew the EGR from the exhaust pipe, re-install the reverse way. Email us here and let us know if it solved your problem.
I plan on sending some mail to Ford about what I went through and I want them pay for the EGR valve and my labor.
More importantly, I am a happy F150 owner again and thats all that matters.
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Don W
97 F150 4X4 XLT, ORP, Tow Package,
CD-Changer, K&N, B&M shift improver,
PIAA fog lights, Weld Rims 17", 265 70LT AT/S, Flowmaster 40 series 3" cat back.
f1504x4.hompeage.com
If your truck is out of warrenty, just replace the EGR valve and move on. It takes less time then fighting with the dealer, Four times at the dealer and them having the truck all day. My experience with the Ford techncians is that they are not very technical and have to see it rough idle for them selfs, even then they will probably miss diag the problem and sell you a new ash try.
The EGR is not hard to replace, takes about 1/2 hour, make sure you get the gasket with it. Losen the pipe that comes up from the header first, then crack the two bolts holding it to the plenium, then just unscreew the EGR from the exhaust pipe, re-install the reverse way. Email us here and let us know if it solved your problem.
I plan on sending some mail to Ford about what I went through and I want them pay for the EGR valve and my labor.
More importantly, I am a happy F150 owner again and thats all that matters.
------------------
Don W
97 F150 4X4 XLT, ORP, Tow Package,
CD-Changer, K&N, B&M shift improver,
PIAA fog lights, Weld Rims 17", 265 70LT AT/S, Flowmaster 40 series 3" cat back.
f1504x4.hompeage.com
I'm having my engine replaced by ford for a low end knock as I write this. Did you here about the ford service recall, My wifes uncle works for them. He said some of the engine are having rocker arm problems and thus causing the valve not opening fully causing your problem ROUGH IDLE !!!!!!!! Hope to of been some help.
[This message has been edited by wheezer447 (edited 02-18-2001).]
[This message has been edited by wheezer447 (edited 02-18-2001).]


