Purolater makes the Motorcraft.

 

Oh and also just a warning to any of you who might have an extended warranty through a 3rd party company. They are very difficult to deal with in complicated situations like this and also you can never get a hold of anyone. I will never buy another extended warranty through a 3rd party company again. For simple repairs they are fine.

 

on my 04 heritage i used motorcraft, and on my 08 i used motorcraft oil and filter till i hit 6k then i went to mobil1 extended performance oil and filter. i am at 28k now with nothing bad yet. but yeah ive heard bad things about the frams...and i used to buy them but they werent put on any fords that ive owned.

 

I really hope this stuff works http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/heavy_sludge_app.html I plan on doing the clean and rinse phase twice to make sure I get all the crap out of my motor and hopefully it clears those oil passages.

 

Interesting read on the filters. I've had my oil changed at the Jiffy Lube type places for its entire life (9 years and 175k miles) w/o problems. Either lucky or they use the right right ones. I do change my oil every 3k though.

Would the Auto-Rx be good to use on an engine that's running good, just to clean the pipes?

EDIT: And what conventional oil would be used to replace the 5W-20?

 

Yes, I think so, although I'm a fairly new user of the Auto Rx, -about 16,000 miles so far. The longer you keep all lubrication ports and journals clean, the longer she's going to last. I don't use any additives in the engine but that because I don't believe in them. Auto Rx is recommended by a trustworthy user on this site that really knows these engines and oil,= labnerd.

270,000 + miles on this engine. This engine doesn't use oil or leak it. No sounds, - knocks ,ticks not yet anyway. I can hear my injectors though. Their fairly new and Type3's Bosch 19's w/improved spray pattern. They work great, can be noisier than your originals.

1a.I follow all general maintenance procedures a little earlier than recommended. Motorcraft PCV valves, - very important little part and it needs to be a Motorcraft replacement. There is no proper substitute that I know of.

1b. Change the oil every 3,000 or 3 months and use a blend, -per manufacturer recommendation. Always used 6 quarts, no more no less. Never had my oil on the max line and never will. Scribed my own 6 qt. hash on the stick long ago. Since over filling shortens the life of any engine.

2. Motorvac service every 2 or 3 years, depending on miles. This will cut the carbon buildup that may happen over time. Always using good petrol will help with build up as well.

3. Coolant flush every other year. This has to be done right, some Ford engines are difficult to purge and has to done thru the core line.

I'm sure I mist a few things, but you get the idea. Follow that little book in the glove box or download one @ Motorcraft.com and you should get plenty of longevity out of your Ford engine.

 

good to know.

 

This filter line is a buch of BS! I don't care what Ford, or any of you, says about it. I don't like Frams and won't use them anymore. There are much better filters available, Wix for example.

The problem is poor design. Ford puts the blame on the filters because they don't want to recall all those millions of 5.4's out there with this problem. Don't let brand loyalty fool you into believing everything that is printed by the big blue oval.

 

Yeah x2mosg I just think its crazy that "any" filter could deteriorate that fast. Especially when I have always got my oil changed at 3,000 miles. Like I have said before I just hope that whatever damage was done was not too much. I only have 65,000!!!

 

Anytime a cardboard tube is used in a liquid, it's a poor design. It can be expected to deteriorate and collapse and may not take very long, just common sense. The filters with a plastic tube have no problem.

 

This is interesting, been a long time since it has been brought up on the site.


http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...y.html#mc-fl1a

 

I guess I was blinded by using Fram in 3 of my other vehicles and never having any issues. I will have to do my research going forward before just slapping any oil filter on my vehicle.

 

Wow a lot of info on these filters!

 

Another one with a little different info.

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ence.html#fram

 

Oh, Hold me back!!

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Filters To Avoid

The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

Fram Extra Guard

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Penzoil

This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

Quaker State

This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...

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To late.