4R70w 2WD - BIG difference

 

ahh 4r70w is probably pretty narrow in comparison. i didnt need to remove headers to pull starter.

 

On E4OD, 4R100 and 4R70W equipped vehicles the book says to remove the exhaust. Why it has to come off is open to debate. I have always removed mine but with the M5OD it is not necessary according to the book. You need only to unhook the muffler from its hanger and push it down. Apparently you can pull the tranny back far enough to clear the input shaft then tilt it forward and pass it over the exhaust cross over pipes. You do need to remove the t-case to accomplish this feat. I don't remove the t-case but pull both at the same time. Neal has never removed the exhaust to pull a tranny. His headers make the starter removal a real PITA but I can do it with my eyes closed. Actually I have to because of the junk that falls in my eyes. Personally I would hate to have to remove headers to pull the tranny.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

i think the exhaust had to be dropped on stock application because it wrapped under without any breaks/clamps?

guess this means im replacing that seal on the input of the t-case now...

 

hmm well on mine, there was NO way in hell I was getting that starter out with my headers on, and it took 30 minutes to get both headers off, so it was no big deal for me.

 

With the number of times that I have removed starters it takes me about 10 minutes. I will let you know how it goes when I get long tubes on mine.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I pulled mine for the long tube install, it was easier to maneuver the header in place. I don't remember it being that much of a b^tch re-installing the starter after the LT's were on.

I fought that passenger side LT for along time - It went easy after removing the AC bracket (just have to move the bracket bolted on the front of the motor, no disconnecting of the lines required) and starter. Wish I did that at first.

 

JMC you are the only one building a manual truck, NICE


built54 what company are you going to get to build your new one?

 

dirty dog, from ohio. He built my stall converter

 

Did you put the header in from the top or bottom? I did it from the bottom, slid right up in place

 

From the bottom - it went right into place after I took the starter off and removed the bracket. First the starter was in the way, I could almost get the header on , but not quite.- (directions said to remove anyway) Then it wouldn't go the rest of the way because the AC bracket held it up . Once I removed - NO problems.

Maybe it's a Pacesetter thing ..

 

must be. My starter didnt have to be removed for the install of my headers, nor can the starter be removed with the header there... must be a dynatech thing?

 

Yea , like I said -I could almost get the damn thing on without removing the starter. That's why I fought it so long - Nope, it just wasn't happening - cussing didn't help much either

How about your old Pacesetters ? Did they go on easier ? Maybe they changed the design a little ?

Well, Idunno - It wasn't going to work with the starter in the way for me.

 

AC bracket that holds this line in place had to be disconnected -



Yea the starter definitely looks like a b^tch to get to now, but I can and have got on the bolts from here. Access is bigger than it looks in the photo. You can see the bolts from another position -



Just another pic -

 

HI!... Here's my set-up.