Have not seen a bad looking truck in all 18 pages, good work guys.

 

Yes, it is for a 4WD that I posted it. Everything I wrote except the 2inch lowering shackles is going to 2WD stuff. 2wd and 4WD spindles are even alike except the 4WD has drive axles through them.

The 2WD and 4WD both use the same springs even. The height differennces are due to that 2 inch block in the rear and the longer length of front shock between the bottom of the coil spring and lower control arm. It's not 2 inches, but it don't have to be because it's inward on the LCA from the spindle at the ball joint, so shorter distance in same arc.

I did it because I like my 4WD, like the gearing choices, like the added grip on wet grass or hillsides, but I do not need extra ground clearence. The wife isn't feeble but that 2 inches sure make getting in a quicker less dramatic proposition for her and I like it too. Truck drives better too.

 

Cool. Much appreciated. I am looking at getting rims now. I will update with some pics, and probably more questions! Thanks again.

 

Since im tossing around this idea again with my 4x4 truck. Would the stock tire size still work with about a 4/6 drop on these trucks? And, for the rear, is there a route around the hangars for any amount of drop. I want to avoid those at any and all costs. I pm'd TSS about it, and he couldnt verify that anything but hangars worked to drop a 4x4. I dont see why a flip kit wouldnt work. Any info would be much appreciated.

 

i made my own flip kit but it made it way to low i like to tow with my truck and the flip put the axle on the frame ...i dont want to notch the frame cause i know later im gonna stright axle this truck down the road so i only want something that can be taken off ...the flip got me about 7" of drop and was axleon frame no bumpstops ...and on the front i had the little peice the torsin keys sit on i had thos out and not bolts just keys hanging and got the front crossmember 1" or less off the ground ...control arm on frme with no bump stop and it was a ruff ride ...also drug about 2" of the dront dif off so there was a hole and i could see the gears ...so you dont want to go to low unless you remove the front axle and transfer case they hang to low ...also when i would change lanes the front crossmember would hit road reflectors !

 

so after i runied the front axlei lifted it to stock for a while then lifted it to fit 37's ..now i want it back down lower then stock but not as low as b4 ...it was lower cause i had the stock chrome 17's on 225/45/17's very small tires ...right now i just have the torson bolts as low as i can get them with out the bars boucing ...and the 2" block out the rear on 245/50/20 ...plan to get 2" drop shackles ...what other options are there other then chevy keys for the front ...ihave seen someone talk about swaping and fliping torson bars?

 

Speaking of flip kits (or doing your own) and axle on frame without a C notch (which happens with stock springs, etc) .....

..... I wonder if anyone has used the lift kits with add a leafs or rearched lift spring packs to get some bump room between the axle and frame?

 

I think a better option if you were flipped would be a shackle lift to keep the ride quality smoother.

 

i'm running 255/70/16 (stock tire size) on my truck

the rear is the exact same as a 2wd, just has a lift block in the back. if you don't want to do hangers, just do a flip kit with the stock shackles. also, for my 6" drop i had to get 4 degree shims, not sure on flip kits though.

 

how much drop can i get in the rear with just 2wd springs ...i have removed the 2" block and drop shackles but want a little more

 

Grind off the rivets to your shakle hangers>>> drill new hole 1 1/4 inch lower on the hanger and reinstall in factory holes in frame with 8.8 hardware. 2 inch drop shackles will be about an 1/8 of an inch from the bed. after that you will need springs.

 

well my hangers have lower holes that will line up with the ones being used now

there is 6 holes and 4 are being used if i move it up then the top 2 wont be used

 

That should be you ticket to getting lower. Measure how far the shackle is from the bed now and measure the difference on the hole of the hanger. the distance between the shackle and bed should be slightly more then the bolt hole or else the shackles will rub the bottum of the bed.

 

here is the truck i want to get the back lvl with the front

 

this is it on the 35's