Found out how much Boost is TOO MUCH
Originally Posted by racetested
Your comments make no sense. Our fuel lines have never had issues which is a fair comparison to OEM lines.
Our nitrous line has no comparison on the market. I challenge you to find a 1500psi working pressure nylon line that is 5mm O.D. and 2.5MM I.D. Please get back to me with your findings.
NOS nylon lines are not even close to the specs of ours, so again WRONG. They don't even make a supply line.
Keep the rest of the peanut gallery comments to yourself as you have no clue what you are talking about. Jumping in to defend your tuner is admirable but unless you have any technical facts to share, your typing is a waste if bandwidth.
Our nitrous line has no comparison on the market. I challenge you to find a 1500psi working pressure nylon line that is 5mm O.D. and 2.5MM I.D. Please get back to me with your findings.
NOS nylon lines are not even close to the specs of ours, so again WRONG. They don't even make a supply line.
Keep the rest of the peanut gallery comments to yourself as you have no clue what you are talking about. Jumping in to defend your tuner is admirable but unless you have any technical facts to share, your typing is a waste if bandwidth.
Couple things I want to chime in on.
First off is the jet size. Smokingozzy and I compared nozzle sizes at a track event. I had posted to him that we would compare 100 jets then I'd show him some tailights using those same jets.
And that's what I though we did. Turns out we did'nt. We both compared my 100 to his 125. At the time I was'nt aware of that as the NX jets have a different numbering system. So I'll take what Sal says as factual. Looks like they are the same size.
Second, my EGTs, ETs, and trap speeds are VERY CONSISTANT as comparied to when on motor alone. I've proven this on three track outtings at temps ranging from 89F down to 54F At least this tells me the amount of fuel, nitrous, air, and inlet charge are nearly the same run-to-run-to-run. Maybe other nitrous systems do this as well? But it seems fellers like Rob have found out otherwise.
Thirdly, This perception of "braided" vs "nylon" lines is just that. Peoples perception. Perceptions do not = facts. At first I too was a little apprehensive (my preception kicking in). But as I did, take a look at the facts of thier custom made nylon lines vs the generic off the shelf braided lines. Look at what they are trying to achieve and you'll understand why they have the lines that they do. Liquid nitrous all the way to the nozzle simply equalls more efficiency. More efficiency = less nitrous usage and a better shot quality. The braided lines do not aid in keeping the nitrous in liquid form.
For what it's worth I've had a temp sensor on my nylon lines, fuel rail, and pulsoids ever since the install. It does'nt get as hot as you might think. It's generally under 160F even in traffic on a 85 degree day.
As for me, my money, and my time... I'll stick with guys who are concerned with quality products and factual information. vs.. just walking down the same old cow paths our grandfathers did.
Rich
First off is the jet size. Smokingozzy and I compared nozzle sizes at a track event. I had posted to him that we would compare 100 jets then I'd show him some tailights using those same jets.
And that's what I though we did. Turns out we did'nt. We both compared my 100 to his 125. At the time I was'nt aware of that as the NX jets have a different numbering system. So I'll take what Sal says as factual. Looks like they are the same size.Second, my EGTs, ETs, and trap speeds are VERY CONSISTANT as comparied to when on motor alone. I've proven this on three track outtings at temps ranging from 89F down to 54F At least this tells me the amount of fuel, nitrous, air, and inlet charge are nearly the same run-to-run-to-run. Maybe other nitrous systems do this as well? But it seems fellers like Rob have found out otherwise.
Thirdly, This perception of "braided" vs "nylon" lines is just that. Peoples perception. Perceptions do not = facts. At first I too was a little apprehensive (my preception kicking in). But as I did, take a look at the facts of thier custom made nylon lines vs the generic off the shelf braided lines. Look at what they are trying to achieve and you'll understand why they have the lines that they do. Liquid nitrous all the way to the nozzle simply equalls more efficiency. More efficiency = less nitrous usage and a better shot quality. The braided lines do not aid in keeping the nitrous in liquid form.
For what it's worth I've had a temp sensor on my nylon lines, fuel rail, and pulsoids ever since the install. It does'nt get as hot as you might think. It's generally under 160F even in traffic on a 85 degree day.
As for me, my money, and my time... I'll stick with guys who are concerned with quality products and factual information. vs.. just walking down the same old cow paths our grandfathers did.
Rich
Originally Posted by racetested
You would have sold how many of our kits? When I originally spoke to you, you said you move like 1 kit every 6 months.
Can you please list all these customers with our kits with issues across the country? I love when somehow others know better than I the supplier. It's all new news to me. NLOC, and our forum have plenty of great comments to say about the kit and the results. I listed two already. What are your replies on them? Are these great results somehow fabricated? You claim NX is so great yet I had a guy with an NX kit swap to ours and got better results. Again how do you explain?
NX must have different jet sizes then as you say one thing and others say differently. I'll buy them myself and measure as I can't trust you to be honest.
Your inexperience shows with not even knowing the basics. You claim that we don't know the Lightning so our nitrous knowledge doesn't apply. Yet your test would be to just change an injector which has nothing to do with knowing more on how to nitrous a Lightning. This is just a simple flow test and nothing more as the set-up has not changed. Now if you criticized us for trying to make max power with a single poiint kit and you knew direct port was the way to go then you would have a point. Plus you don't need to know an application, you need to know how nitrous flows and how that manifold design is going to be a part of that flow.
Now you want to start slinging mud with bull**** comments about nitpicky issues.
1) What line of ours melted?
2) A handful of valves leaked from a pressure port that was fully my fault. Highpower did not tap these ports as they were for nitrogen boosting but I was trying to accomodate customers by giving them an extra port and a handful leaked. Problem solved quickly and corrected.
3) Lines blowing off? Are you going to keep clinging to Robs one line as a major fault when thousands of other customers have no problems?
4) Recall of fuel solenoids. I guess you didn't get the memo that US kits had the same problems in Europe originally. We did a recall and NO Lightning owner suffered any problems. You left out the part where you sold your truck with the old solenoid seal which you knew about for months. Nice of you to take care of the owner and not even mention it. Luckily I saw a post when he bought your truck and reminded him.
Are these the best nitpicking problems you can come up with? Other kits blowing motors, hoods off cars, major intake backfires. These are miniscule and nothing to you somehow? I guess we see things rather differently.
Customers should not have to deal with? Are you going to play the holier than though card because I highly doubt all your work is the greatest and fault FREE.
I'll take Sal up on any nitrous challenge. We do it at the track and no dyno. We'll have an independent measure the jets. No purge for you either as this is an apples to apples test and our kit doesn't need a purge. Winner takes home $10,000 from the loser.
Can you please list all these customers with our kits with issues across the country? I love when somehow others know better than I the supplier. It's all new news to me. NLOC, and our forum have plenty of great comments to say about the kit and the results. I listed two already. What are your replies on them? Are these great results somehow fabricated? You claim NX is so great yet I had a guy with an NX kit swap to ours and got better results. Again how do you explain?
NX must have different jet sizes then as you say one thing and others say differently. I'll buy them myself and measure as I can't trust you to be honest.
Your inexperience shows with not even knowing the basics. You claim that we don't know the Lightning so our nitrous knowledge doesn't apply. Yet your test would be to just change an injector which has nothing to do with knowing more on how to nitrous a Lightning. This is just a simple flow test and nothing more as the set-up has not changed. Now if you criticized us for trying to make max power with a single poiint kit and you knew direct port was the way to go then you would have a point. Plus you don't need to know an application, you need to know how nitrous flows and how that manifold design is going to be a part of that flow.
Now you want to start slinging mud with bull**** comments about nitpicky issues.
1) What line of ours melted?
2) A handful of valves leaked from a pressure port that was fully my fault. Highpower did not tap these ports as they were for nitrogen boosting but I was trying to accomodate customers by giving them an extra port and a handful leaked. Problem solved quickly and corrected.
3) Lines blowing off? Are you going to keep clinging to Robs one line as a major fault when thousands of other customers have no problems?
4) Recall of fuel solenoids. I guess you didn't get the memo that US kits had the same problems in Europe originally. We did a recall and NO Lightning owner suffered any problems. You left out the part where you sold your truck with the old solenoid seal which you knew about for months. Nice of you to take care of the owner and not even mention it. Luckily I saw a post when he bought your truck and reminded him.
Are these the best nitpicking problems you can come up with? Other kits blowing motors, hoods off cars, major intake backfires. These are miniscule and nothing to you somehow? I guess we see things rather differently.
Customers should not have to deal with? Are you going to play the holier than though card because I highly doubt all your work is the greatest and fault FREE.
I'll take Sal up on any nitrous challenge. We do it at the track and no dyno. We'll have an independent measure the jets. No purge for you either as this is an apples to apples test and our kit doesn't need a purge. Winner takes home $10,000 from the loser.
Once again, the issue is that you keep talking about direct port, blowing through the blower being bad, trucks having to run less boost to make more power with your kit, etc, etc. But yet other kits work just fine and have no problems making power. Why is that?
As for you not being able to "trust" me, you obviously just don't know the Lightning community and it's people. I am a straight shooter, I always tell it like it is and I don't BS. And I'm sure ANYONE here will tell you that. I always give factual data, no matter who's product is at stake, whether it's something I sell or not, and how the tests turn out.
What it all comes down to is that YOU came here touting your kits being so much better than all the rest. And I don't mean just better quality, you talked about how much better they would peform than all other brands. And that's not happened and lots of people aren't happy with the results, but you won't give in, you'll just keep blaming everything else till someone believes you.
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Couple things I want to chime in on.
First off is the jet size. Smokingozzy and I compared nozzle sizes at a track event. I had posted to him that we would compare 100 jets then I'd show him some tailights using those same jets.
And that's what I though we did. Turns out we did'nt. We both compared my 100 to his 125. At the time I was'nt aware of that as the NX jets have a different numbering system. So I'll take what Sal says as factual. Looks like they are the same size.
Second, my EGTs, ETs, and trap speeds are VERY CONSISTANT as comparied to when on motor alone. I've proven this on three track outtings at temps ranging from 89F down to 54F At least this tells me the amount of fuel, nitrous, air, and inlet charge are nearly the same run-to-run-to-run. Maybe other nitrous systems do this as well? But it seems fellers like Rob have found out otherwise.
Thirdly, This perception of "braided" vs "nylon" lines is just that. Peoples perception. Perceptions do not = facts. At first I too was a little apprehensive (my preception kicking in). But as I did, take a look at the facts of thier custom made nylon lines vs the generic off the shelf braided lines. Look at what they are trying to achieve and you'll understand why they have the lines that they do. Liquid nitrous all the way to the nozzle simply equalls more efficiency. More efficiency = less nitrous usage and a better shot quality. The braided lines do not aid in keeping the nitrous in liquid form.
For what it's worth I've had a temp sensor on my nylon lines, fuel rail, and pulsoids ever since the install. It does'nt get as hot as you might think. It's generally under 160F even in traffic on a 85 degree day.
As for me, my money, and my time... I'll stick with guys who are concerned with quality products and factual information. vs.. just walking down the same old cow paths our grandfathers did.
Rich
First off is the jet size. Smokingozzy and I compared nozzle sizes at a track event. I had posted to him that we would compare 100 jets then I'd show him some tailights using those same jets.
And that's what I though we did. Turns out we did'nt. We both compared my 100 to his 125. At the time I was'nt aware of that as the NX jets have a different numbering system. So I'll take what Sal says as factual. Looks like they are the same size.Second, my EGTs, ETs, and trap speeds are VERY CONSISTANT as comparied to when on motor alone. I've proven this on three track outtings at temps ranging from 89F down to 54F At least this tells me the amount of fuel, nitrous, air, and inlet charge are nearly the same run-to-run-to-run. Maybe other nitrous systems do this as well? But it seems fellers like Rob have found out otherwise.
Thirdly, This perception of "braided" vs "nylon" lines is just that. Peoples perception. Perceptions do not = facts. At first I too was a little apprehensive (my preception kicking in). But as I did, take a look at the facts of thier custom made nylon lines vs the generic off the shelf braided lines. Look at what they are trying to achieve and you'll understand why they have the lines that they do. Liquid nitrous all the way to the nozzle simply equalls more efficiency. More efficiency = less nitrous usage and a better shot quality. The braided lines do not aid in keeping the nitrous in liquid form.
For what it's worth I've had a temp sensor on my nylon lines, fuel rail, and pulsoids ever since the install. It does'nt get as hot as you might think. It's generally under 160F even in traffic on a 85 degree day.
As for me, my money, and my time... I'll stick with guys who are concerned with quality products and factual information. vs.. just walking down the same old cow paths our grandfathers did.
Rich
I have read the post that Denny linked with you and your buddy racing at the track. While I'm sure you guys had some fun grudge racing, there's no way that was any kind of "controlled" test. Now I have not seen YOU try to make it as if it was, but Denny sure seems to be pushing that premise. Sorry, that's not a test. Two different trucks, one with a wet system and one with a dry system, is not any kind of controlled test to see which is better. Even reading the track results, your buddy had a better mph, which indicates he was making more power. Your great 60ft got you the better ET, but real racers know mph is what shows hp. And of course his better mph was probably from his higher jet setting, but that's part of my point of it not being any kind of fair test.
I hear ya Sal. I'll agree it was'nt a real scientific test. But us little chickens headed out to the track after work one night can only do so much for science.
A few things I will say though. Our bottle pressures were no where near the same. The temps were in the 50s... He has a bottle heater and I had none. My truck was sitting outside all day in the cold too. My little infrared pyrometer thingy measured his bottle temp at 86F Mine was 61F. So... my bottle pressure was something like 2/3rds what his was. And yet look at our trap speeds? I had an open air filter... he has a nice CAI kit... he has a dry system as to my wet... I was about 125lbs lighter than he was.. ect.
There are just to many variables to come to any conclusion as to what's what from that single evening. He and I (mostly me) have fun bench racing and telling the other he'll be seeing tailights.
Next spring I think we'll be even more closely matched and it'll be even more fun runn'n em.
Rich
A few things I will say though. Our bottle pressures were no where near the same. The temps were in the 50s... He has a bottle heater and I had none. My truck was sitting outside all day in the cold too. My little infrared pyrometer thingy measured his bottle temp at 86F Mine was 61F. So... my bottle pressure was something like 2/3rds what his was. And yet look at our trap speeds? I had an open air filter... he has a nice CAI kit... he has a dry system as to my wet... I was about 125lbs lighter than he was.. ect.
There are just to many variables to come to any conclusion as to what's what from that single evening. He and I (mostly me) have fun bench racing and telling the other he'll be seeing tailights.
Next spring I think we'll be even more closely matched and it'll be even more fun runn'n em.
Rich
There is little to gain from vendors fighting like this. The customers suffer because of hard feelings between the vendors. I have a problem with my kit and I need my nitrous vendor and tuner onboard to work things out. There are a lot of strong opinions on both sides, but what I want to know is what steps to take to diagnose my problem. Here is what I plan to do when I get home:
1. Install the pressure gauge so I know my bottle pressure
2. Recheck all my lines for pinches
3. Check the nozzle location and how deep it sticks up.
If all that checks out, I'll need next steps. Hopefully we can come up with a list of multiple things to try at the same time so I don't spend hundreds of dollars in mulitple dyno trips.
-Mark
1. Install the pressure gauge so I know my bottle pressure
2. Recheck all my lines for pinches
3. Check the nozzle location and how deep it sticks up.
If all that checks out, I'll need next steps. Hopefully we can come up with a list of multiple things to try at the same time so I don't spend hundreds of dollars in mulitple dyno trips.
-Mark
Originally Posted by St Louis Lightning
There is little to gain from vendors fighting like this. The customers suffer because of hard feelings between the vendors. I have a problem with my kit and I need my nitrous vendor and tuner onboard to work things out. There are a lot of strong opinions on both sides, but what I want to know is what steps to take to diagnose my problem. Here is what I plan to do when I get home:
1. Install the pressure gauge so I know my bottle pressure
2. Recheck all my lines for pinches
3. Check the nozzle location and how deep it sticks up.
If all that checks out, I'll need next steps. Hopefully we can come up with a list of multiple things to try at the same time so I don't spend hundreds of dollars in mulitple dyno trips.
-Mark
1. Install the pressure gauge so I know my bottle pressure
2. Recheck all my lines for pinches
3. Check the nozzle location and how deep it sticks up.
If all that checks out, I'll need next steps. Hopefully we can come up with a list of multiple things to try at the same time so I don't spend hundreds of dollars in mulitple dyno trips.
-Mark
A bottle pressure gauge is always a good idea. Plus it might fix your leaking issue. I'm sure your bottle pressure was very low when I dynoed your truck, but without the gauge, there was no way for me to safely heat it. I know Robs cold tank was only 600 psi when opened at first until I heated it. That was probaly costing you some power as well.
WOW Hostile post we got going here
Ok is this a set up, or coincidence that there happens to be a banner on the bottom of this post that reads
Nitrous Oxide Purge
Nitrous Purge systems and kits Prevent the bog at the line! $69
NX Nitrous Kits
Go Nitro & blast past the world! Financing Available-$25 per month.
Zex Nitrous Kits
Wet and Dry Nitrous Kits by Zex on sale now, Free Shipping.
Supercharge Any Car
Up to 35 HP 31% MPG. Only $69.95 30 Day Money Back Guarantee.
Sal do you think this 69.95 Supercharger will really give me 35HP ???
Eww Eww I want one, I want one
....
(KIDDING OF COURSE, I'm just trying to lighten things up : o (
Denny is a good man and the RT kit was an important Mod on my L resulting in great ET's through the last couple of seasons. I wish we could just give suggestions and opinions here in this post, but the opinions differ and now unfortunately this has turned into a war and that really sucks, nothing will get acomplished this way
Lets look at the facts and goals here
From Day one my build was very un-orthodox in some people's minds, but in mine IT'S STILL NOT. I have a very simple goal, a stock appearing and driving Lightning that kicks *** on both the street and strip. A true sleeper with all the comforts of "off the showroom floor". I truly want to be able to drive my Lightning to a Wedding, Funeral, or Home Depot and NOT be out of place.
I knew we could do it with nitrous and Sal did too, but he was forced to put a lot of faith in the RT kit, (even know he's a NX dealer) So Denny you cant say he didnt try.
Yes we had some set back, ALL MY FAULT for not going for the right stuff day one, and yes it cost me more to sell what I already bought and then re-buy what I should have in the first place, but belive me I'm still at 1/2 of what most paid. So here we are finally down to D day and everything was riding on the n20 adding the 100-150 HP I need to chase the 10 sec dream.
(Not looking to run 10's all day, just chase the dream with some low 11's and the possibility to do it under the right conditions SOME DAY)
On the Dyno it went and you all know the rest. HOWEVER I AM NOT COMPLAING, 470/590 and 550/655 is going to prove to be some serious fun : o )
WOO HOO.........
But Denny you really do need to look at this, and at least be open to the fact that maybe there are some reasons the RT kit doesnt perform at higher boost levels. I would be willing to bet my last CC even my old Zex kit would have put it down boost or not. My personal opinion is we need more pressure coming out of the Solenoids and a much larger nozzle.
If you offer some kind of adt for the solenoids that would allow me to use standard braided lines into a standard nozzle I will buy them tonight and try it. MAYBE WE'LL ALL LEARN SOMETHING.
If not I would ask that you tell me the thread size (is it metric) and the adt's I would need to be able to do this. At this point we are VERY CLOSE to our goal and I would hate to give up on the RT kit now. I'm a Wizard got dam it...
I understand your thoughts and opinion's, and welcome and respect them,
but I will not de-tuning my truck any further than we already have in order to be able to make more n20 power on the RT kit, instead I will make some changes to the System and see if it helps. Even if you feel thats a wrong move, I please ask for you to be open to at least letting me try.
AND PLEASE EVERYONE LETS KEEP THIS CIVIL
Ok is this a set up, or coincidence that there happens to be a banner on the bottom of this post that reads
Nitrous Oxide Purge
Nitrous Purge systems and kits Prevent the bog at the line! $69
NX Nitrous Kits
Go Nitro & blast past the world! Financing Available-$25 per month.
Zex Nitrous Kits
Wet and Dry Nitrous Kits by Zex on sale now, Free Shipping.
Supercharge Any Car
Up to 35 HP 31% MPG. Only $69.95 30 Day Money Back Guarantee.
Sal do you think this 69.95 Supercharger will really give me 35HP ???
Eww Eww I want one, I want one
....
(KIDDING OF COURSE, I'm just trying to lighten things up : o (
Denny is a good man and the RT kit was an important Mod on my L resulting in great ET's through the last couple of seasons. I wish we could just give suggestions and opinions here in this post, but the opinions differ and now unfortunately this has turned into a war and that really sucks, nothing will get acomplished this way
Lets look at the facts and goals here
From Day one my build was very un-orthodox in some people's minds, but in mine IT'S STILL NOT. I have a very simple goal, a stock appearing and driving Lightning that kicks *** on both the street and strip. A true sleeper with all the comforts of "off the showroom floor". I truly want to be able to drive my Lightning to a Wedding, Funeral, or Home Depot and NOT be out of place.
I knew we could do it with nitrous and Sal did too, but he was forced to put a lot of faith in the RT kit, (even know he's a NX dealer) So Denny you cant say he didnt try.
Yes we had some set back, ALL MY FAULT for not going for the right stuff day one, and yes it cost me more to sell what I already bought and then re-buy what I should have in the first place, but belive me I'm still at 1/2 of what most paid. So here we are finally down to D day and everything was riding on the n20 adding the 100-150 HP I need to chase the 10 sec dream.
(Not looking to run 10's all day, just chase the dream with some low 11's and the possibility to do it under the right conditions SOME DAY)
On the Dyno it went and you all know the rest. HOWEVER I AM NOT COMPLAING, 470/590 and 550/655 is going to prove to be some serious fun : o )
WOO HOO.........
But Denny you really do need to look at this, and at least be open to the fact that maybe there are some reasons the RT kit doesnt perform at higher boost levels. I would be willing to bet my last CC even my old Zex kit would have put it down boost or not. My personal opinion is we need more pressure coming out of the Solenoids and a much larger nozzle.
If you offer some kind of adt for the solenoids that would allow me to use standard braided lines into a standard nozzle I will buy them tonight and try it. MAYBE WE'LL ALL LEARN SOMETHING.
If not I would ask that you tell me the thread size (is it metric) and the adt's I would need to be able to do this. At this point we are VERY CLOSE to our goal and I would hate to give up on the RT kit now. I'm a Wizard got dam it...
I understand your thoughts and opinion's, and welcome and respect them,
but I will not de-tuning my truck any further than we already have in order to be able to make more n20 power on the RT kit, instead I will make some changes to the System and see if it helps. Even if you feel thats a wrong move, I please ask for you to be open to at least letting me try.
AND PLEASE EVERYONE LETS KEEP THIS CIVIL
Originally Posted by Rob_02Lightning
AND PLEASE EVERYONE LETS KEEP THIS CIVIL
Civil? This is F150online isn't it.
J/K
I'm just sitting back and learning a LOT about Nitrous. There is a WEALTH of information here, you just have to decipher it.
Rob dump the racetested kit, and get a real kit like this holley NOS noszle setup which will spray right into the cylinders. Take a look back a page in this thread and you can see the adapter for the injector i posted. I might be going with this setup. I bet youd make some crazy power with this. This guy Denny doesnt seem to willing to work with Sal so why waste your time?Instead of Denny trying to help solve your problems hes challanging Sal to a $10,000 grudge match. A real azz in my opinion. You know Sal knows these trucks best and this RT guy seems ignorant in doing the right thing for you.
Originally Posted by St Louis Lightning
There is little to gain from vendors fighting like this. The customers suffer because of hard feelings between the vendors. I have a problem with my kit and I need my nitrous vendor and tuner onboard to work things out.-Mark
Originally Posted by l-menace
Civil? This is F150online isn't it.
J/K
I'm just sitting back and learning a LOT about Nitrous. There is a WEALTH of information here, you just have to decipher it.
J/K
I'm just sitting back and learning a LOT about Nitrous. There is a WEALTH of information here, you just have to decipher it.
Agreed
Originally Posted by l-menace
Civil? This is F150online isn't it.
J/K
I'm just sitting back and learning a LOT about Nitrous. There is a WEALTH of information here, you just have to decipher it.
J/K
I'm just sitting back and learning a LOT about Nitrous. There is a WEALTH of information here, you just have to decipher it.
I ran faster at the track with the Racetested kit than I ever did with the NX kit, in worse weather. I don't use a purge and carefully installed the racetested system as per denny's reccomendations. I don't see what's so hard about keeping the lines away from heat and sharp edges, you should do that with any line regardless. The line blowing up is Rob's fault, period, user error. You can't blame that on the kit.
I use a bottle heater, I can't see using any kit without one.
My best with the NX kit was a 12.34@110, and in worse weather I ran a 12.31@111 with the racetested kit.
I think the racetested kit is extremely high quality, I agree with sal that it needs a bottle heater. I have been using a bottle heater on it since day one. Mine was also very rich on the dyno but i'd rather have it start out rich than lean. Expecting it to have a perfect a/f out of the box with no tuning is slightly unreasonable based on the fact it's a largely universal kit on a specialized application.
I give a huge thumbs up to Denny and racetested's kit. I'm not discounting Sal's observations or wanting to start a fight about anything, simply stating my observations as an independent, 3rd party tester. each person can read and take from them whatever they wish.
I use a bottle heater, I can't see using any kit without one.
My best with the NX kit was a 12.34@110, and in worse weather I ran a 12.31@111 with the racetested kit.
I think the racetested kit is extremely high quality, I agree with sal that it needs a bottle heater. I have been using a bottle heater on it since day one. Mine was also very rich on the dyno but i'd rather have it start out rich than lean. Expecting it to have a perfect a/f out of the box with no tuning is slightly unreasonable based on the fact it's a largely universal kit on a specialized application.
I give a huge thumbs up to Denny and racetested's kit. I'm not discounting Sal's observations or wanting to start a fight about anything, simply stating my observations as an independent, 3rd party tester. each person can read and take from them whatever they wish.


