sorry didnt really mean to make it sound like i was critisizing you after rereading what i wrote i see that.
after reading all the post i never saw where he stated he had 12 to 14 volts on his power wire at the amp with his fuse in should check it to ground to see if it has voltage. you do this with your meter set on dcv 20 red lead in vohmma plug and black in com touch the red lead to your positive wire on your amp and your black lead to the ground wire of the amp should read between 12 to 14 volts. wouldnt the fuse blow when he inserted it at the battery fuse block if he had a short in his power wire going to his amp unless he has a fuse rated bigger than what the battery can actually supply say like an 1000amp it wouldnt blow but since he had a 100 and now a 60 it would blow as soon as he put it in if it was shorted to ground somewhere unless it has no current flow through the wire. are the connections all good and free or corrosion between the battery and amp battery term, fuse block terminals, amp. since he said he had a low reading on his meter close to zero with meter set at 200 ohms when testing the power wire the connections should be good.
i cant remember all the post did you check the ground wire for the amp with your meter when touching the end of the wire that goes into the amp with one lead and touching a piece of metal like a seat bolt with the other lead it should read close to 0 set at 200 ohms if it does your ground is good.
i saw that your originall amp had fuses built into the side of it like 2 20 amps where those fuses good?
your new amp the kicker has 2 30's are those good?
remove all speaker wires, rca's or high level speaker input wires and remote wire from the amp.
if all your fuses check out ok and the power wire test was ok then connect your power and ground wires only to the amp.
to test if your amp will turn on make sure you have all fuses installed and take a short piece of wire speaker wire ok and touch the power that goes into the amp with one end and the remote input on the amp with the other end your amp should power on with no problems unless there is a problem with the amp itself.
did you disconnect the speaker wires from your old amp and try to power it on maybe a shorted wire there causing the amp to go into protect before it powered on.
did you remove the rca's or high level input speaker wires and try and power your old amp could be one of those causing problems.
with your ignition switch on do you have power at the remote wire where it goes to the amp check it with your meter set at dcv 20 should read 12 to 14 volts. if it does not you should check your connections to the back of the stereo where it splices into the power wire that goes to the stereo check the wire with the meter if it has a reading of 12 to 14 volts then move to the switch that you have installed in the remote wire check both sides of the switch with the switch on for voltage if any part doesnt show voltage and you know you have the meter black lead to a good ground then the section between where you last had voltage and where your at now then that section is faulty.
if all that checked out ok and you had your amp turn on when jumping the power to remote terminal then you would be good to connect your remote wire back into the amp with the ignition off when you do it.
if that all worked out then check the ohms of your speaker leads where they go into the amp with your meter set at 200 ohms by touching the red to one speaker lead and the black to the other speaker lead it should not read lower than 2 ohms.

 

No harm done.....

Yes the fuse should blow. The very first reply to his original post asked him to replace the fuse. I posted right below that and suggested that it be done as well. I still to this point do not know if his 100a got changed out. If we learned anything from this , is that 100a fuse is way to big for a single amplifier pulling at max 60 amps.

See you were able to shed some light on the situation.....

I never thought about making a small jumper on the amp itself and testing the remote right there.(I was going all the way under the hood) !

ltz400racer - you have all of your information now.... please when you get a chance post your results and let us know how it goes. Decent size speaker wire will be fine.

If the above checks out okay.......then you might need to take it in for another set of eyes on it.

 

I've done the "jumper" method,and the problem was still existant, so the problem is not in the remote wire.it is else where.
Could the rcas and/ or speaker wire cause it to go into protection? I did use all of the preexisting wires when I swapped the amps, and all of the fuses are good(not blown)

 

they could posibly if they were shorted out like the speaker leads touching eavh other inside the box or your speaker tinsle leads touching each other. did you disconnect the rca's and speaker wires from the amp and try to power it on?
did you ever check to make sure you had 12 to 14 volts on the power wire to your amp?
if you did and it still didnt come on then i suggest that you remove the amp out of the truck and bring it up close to the battery and make some small jumpers and connect the amp there connect the pos to pos and neg to neg and jump the pos on the amp to the remote. that way you will know for sure that it cant be the wire run going back to the amp. does it power on like that?
and out of curiousity did you buy the kicker amp new or used?

 

I purchased the kicker from a fellow forum member.

 

you need to make sure the amp will power on by it self with nothing else attached except the power ground and remote once you get it to come on then you can go from there and start connecting the other components to it.

 

never mind

 

What would be the best way to do that?

 

unless i skipped somethn all he is saying is , lets test the amp first..
1. open hood
2. get a short piece of wire jump it between the remote and 12 volts in.
next take a short piece of wire connect to battery positive connect to amp positive
then get a short piece of wire and connect to battery negative, then insert to amp negative, be carefull, see if all lights on amp look normal. this is a simple (bench test).. DONT SET THE AMP ON THE BATTERY

 

if amp is good, we know your lines are good, it prolly has somethn to do with the high/low connection of the rca... or the hu itself . at first u said u were havin a blinkin light, that sounds power ground related.. with it going to protect it could be a whole nother prollem, or both

 

Ok, I hooked up just the ground wire.it was still flickering, BUT only when sound is sent to it, otherwise its a steady green light.

 

so u testd the amp?

 

what do u mean just the ground?

 

I left the remote wire attached to the switch, and the power wire the way it is. And I grounded the ground to the battery. But yes, I tested the power part of the battery.

 

so amp mis good.wires are good. problem when rcas are connected? what type of connecion is it, a rca to speaker wire connect? most likely hu channels are starting to go. throw it in the gutter, go buy another. just my opinion. lol