problem with system.
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From: ohio
novel
sorry didnt really mean to make it sound like i was critisizing you after rereading what i wrote i see that.
after reading all the post i never saw where he stated he had 12 to 14 volts on his power wire at the amp with his fuse in should check it to ground to see if it has voltage. you do this with your meter set on dcv 20 red lead in vohmma plug and black in com touch the red lead to your positive wire on your amp and your black lead to the ground wire of the amp should read between 12 to 14 volts. wouldnt the fuse blow when he inserted it at the battery fuse block if he had a short in his power wire going to his amp unless he has a fuse rated bigger than what the battery can actually supply say like an 1000amp it wouldnt blow but since he had a 100 and now a 60 it would blow as soon as he put it in if it was shorted to ground somewhere unless it has no current flow through the wire. are the connections all good and free or corrosion between the battery and amp battery term, fuse block terminals, amp. since he said he had a low reading on his meter close to zero with meter set at 200 ohms when testing the power wire the connections should be good.
i cant remember all the post did you check the ground wire for the amp with your meter when touching the end of the wire that goes into the amp with one lead and touching a piece of metal like a seat bolt with the other lead it should read close to 0 set at 200 ohms if it does your ground is good.
i saw that your originall amp had fuses built into the side of it like 2 20 amps where those fuses good?
your new amp the kicker has 2 30's are those good?
remove all speaker wires, rca's or high level speaker input wires and remote wire from the amp.
if all your fuses check out ok and the power wire test was ok then connect your power and ground wires only to the amp.
to test if your amp will turn on make sure you have all fuses installed and take a short piece of wire speaker wire ok and touch the power that goes into the amp with one end and the remote input on the amp with the other end your amp should power on with no problems unless there is a problem with the amp itself.
did you disconnect the speaker wires from your old amp and try to power it on maybe a shorted wire there causing the amp to go into protect before it powered on.
did you remove the rca's or high level input speaker wires and try and power your old amp could be one of those causing problems.
with your ignition switch on do you have power at the remote wire where it goes to the amp check it with your meter set at dcv 20 should read 12 to 14 volts. if it does not you should check your connections to the back of the stereo where it splices into the power wire that goes to the stereo check the wire with the meter if it has a reading of 12 to 14 volts then move to the switch that you have installed in the remote wire check both sides of the switch with the switch on for voltage if any part doesnt show voltage and you know you have the meter black lead to a good ground then the section between where you last had voltage and where your at now then that section is faulty.
if all that checked out ok and you had your amp turn on when jumping the power to remote terminal then you would be good to connect your remote wire back into the amp with the ignition off when you do it.
if that all worked out then check the ohms of your speaker leads where they go into the amp with your meter set at 200 ohms by touching the red to one speaker lead and the black to the other speaker lead it should not read lower than 2 ohms.
after reading all the post i never saw where he stated he had 12 to 14 volts on his power wire at the amp with his fuse in should check it to ground to see if it has voltage. you do this with your meter set on dcv 20 red lead in vohmma plug and black in com touch the red lead to your positive wire on your amp and your black lead to the ground wire of the amp should read between 12 to 14 volts. wouldnt the fuse blow when he inserted it at the battery fuse block if he had a short in his power wire going to his amp unless he has a fuse rated bigger than what the battery can actually supply say like an 1000amp it wouldnt blow but since he had a 100 and now a 60 it would blow as soon as he put it in if it was shorted to ground somewhere unless it has no current flow through the wire. are the connections all good and free or corrosion between the battery and amp battery term, fuse block terminals, amp. since he said he had a low reading on his meter close to zero with meter set at 200 ohms when testing the power wire the connections should be good.
i cant remember all the post did you check the ground wire for the amp with your meter when touching the end of the wire that goes into the amp with one lead and touching a piece of metal like a seat bolt with the other lead it should read close to 0 set at 200 ohms if it does your ground is good.
i saw that your originall amp had fuses built into the side of it like 2 20 amps where those fuses good?
your new amp the kicker has 2 30's are those good?
remove all speaker wires, rca's or high level speaker input wires and remote wire from the amp.
if all your fuses check out ok and the power wire test was ok then connect your power and ground wires only to the amp.
to test if your amp will turn on make sure you have all fuses installed and take a short piece of wire speaker wire ok and touch the power that goes into the amp with one end and the remote input on the amp with the other end your amp should power on with no problems unless there is a problem with the amp itself.
did you disconnect the speaker wires from your old amp and try to power it on maybe a shorted wire there causing the amp to go into protect before it powered on.
did you remove the rca's or high level input speaker wires and try and power your old amp could be one of those causing problems.
with your ignition switch on do you have power at the remote wire where it goes to the amp check it with your meter set at dcv 20 should read 12 to 14 volts. if it does not you should check your connections to the back of the stereo where it splices into the power wire that goes to the stereo check the wire with the meter if it has a reading of 12 to 14 volts then move to the switch that you have installed in the remote wire check both sides of the switch with the switch on for voltage if any part doesnt show voltage and you know you have the meter black lead to a good ground then the section between where you last had voltage and where your at now then that section is faulty.
if all that checked out ok and you had your amp turn on when jumping the power to remote terminal then you would be good to connect your remote wire back into the amp with the ignition off when you do it.
if that all worked out then check the ohms of your speaker leads where they go into the amp with your meter set at 200 ohms by touching the red to one speaker lead and the black to the other speaker lead it should not read lower than 2 ohms.
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From: se texas
nah not unless someone would buy it but i doubt it.
so your amp is powering on ok thats good means that your power wires and the power circuits in the amp are good.
when you pluged in the rca's with the radio playing did you have the speaker output wires connected to the amp?
since you have a factory stereo i assume you have a little box to convert the high level speaker wires to low level rca's.
your kicker kx600.1 has high level speaker inputs and low level rca's.
if your using that box i want you to disconnect it and take a piece of speaker wire and connect it to one of your speaker wires coming from the hu and the other end to the high level speaker input on the amp.
do this with your sub wires disconnected from the amp.
so your amp is powering on ok thats good means that your power wires and the power circuits in the amp are good.
when you pluged in the rca's with the radio playing did you have the speaker output wires connected to the amp?
since you have a factory stereo i assume you have a little box to convert the high level speaker wires to low level rca's.
your kicker kx600.1 has high level speaker inputs and low level rca's.
if your using that box i want you to disconnect it and take a piece of speaker wire and connect it to one of your speaker wires coming from the hu and the other end to the high level speaker input on the amp.
do this with your sub wires disconnected from the amp.
Last edited by jrfonte; Apr 15, 2009 at 09:24 PM.
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From: Arvada, CO
nah not unless someone would buy it but i doubt it.
so your amp is powering on ok thats good means that your power wires and the power circuits in the amp are good.
when you pluged in the rca's with the radio playing did you have the speaker output wires connected to the amp?
since you have a factory stereo i assume you have a little box to convert the high level speaker wires to low level rca's.
your kicker kx600.1 has high level speaker inputs and low level rca's.
if your using that box i want you to disconnect it and take a piece of speaker wire and connect it to one of your speaker wires coming from the hu and the other end to the high level speaker input on the amp.
do this with your sub wires disconnected from the amp.
so your amp is powering on ok thats good means that your power wires and the power circuits in the amp are good.
when you pluged in the rca's with the radio playing did you have the speaker output wires connected to the amp?
since you have a factory stereo i assume you have a little box to convert the high level speaker wires to low level rca's.
your kicker kx600.1 has high level speaker inputs and low level rca's.
if your using that box i want you to disconnect it and take a piece of speaker wire and connect it to one of your speaker wires coming from the hu and the other end to the high level speaker input on the amp.
do this with your sub wires disconnected from the amp.
and i also have the box, but i did not know it converted it to low level rcas
but your saying to just connect regular old speaker wire from where the rca converter box usually is, and put the speaker wire in the input for the the speaker wire? Got it.
also, why is have output connected a bad thing? could it really be the sub thats making it short?
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: Arvada, CO
oh, ok. i gotcha. but since the speaker that the rcas run off of works fine, wouldnt that mean the the HU is fine? i know, im a big PITA but i like learning about things, and why they are done the way they are done.
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From: Arvada, CO
also, why is have output connected a bad thing? could it really be the sub thats making it short?
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From: se texas
i was getting you to do a process of elimination to find out what is messed up and where. if the speaker its connected to works then i doubt the hu is the cause.
it'll be the rca low level converter box, the rca cables them self, the speaker wire going to sub or the sub. unless there is something else that is connected does the sub enclosure have a connection plate on the side of it or does the wires go through the box straight to the sub?
did you try what i asked?
it'll be the rca low level converter box, the rca cables them self, the speaker wire going to sub or the sub. unless there is something else that is connected does the sub enclosure have a connection plate on the side of it or does the wires go through the box straight to the sub?
did you try what i asked?
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From: se texas
not sure why it has the converter box on it your original amp the mtx has high level speaker inputs on it with an auto turn on feature which means when you wernt playing music through your hu your amp would have been turned off and when you started to play music it would turn itself on. means you wouldnt have to of had a switch on the remote wire or have it connected to a switched output on the ignition just constant power.
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: Arvada, CO
i was getting you to do a process of elimination to find out what is messed up and where. if the speaker its connected to works then i doubt the hu is the cause.
it'll be the rca low level converter box, the rca cables them self, the speaker wire going to sub or the sub. unless there is something else that is connected does the sub enclosure have a connection plate on the side of it or does the wires go through the box straight to the sub?
did you try what i asked?
it'll be the rca low level converter box, the rca cables them self, the speaker wire going to sub or the sub. unless there is something else that is connected does the sub enclosure have a connection plate on the side of it or does the wires go through the box straight to the sub?
did you try what i asked?
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: Arvada, CO
not sure why it has the converter box on it your original amp the mtx has high level speaker inputs on it with an auto turn on feature which means when you wernt playing music through your hu your amp would have been turned off and when you started to play music it would turn itself on. means you wouldnt have to of had a switch on the remote wire or have it connected to a switched output on the ignition just constant power.
but the switch is so that i dont always have to have my sub on if i choose to let my ears rest for the time being
this sub WAS pretty darn loud.the mtx only had RCA inputs...whether that means they are high level or not, you got me.
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From: se texas
these are the specs for the amp you said you had the mtx tc3002 unless you had an older model than this and they changed it
MAX Power @ 2 Ohms: 900 Watts Total
RMS Power @ 2 Ohms: 150 Watts x 2 Channels and <1% THD+N
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 300 Watts x 1 Channel Bridged and <1% THD+N
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 75 Watts X 2 Channels and <1% THD+N
Wired Bass Boost Remote Control: Included
Signal-To-Noise Ratio (1 Watt): 80 dB
THD+Noise (Distortion) (1Watt): <0.25%
Frequency Response (-3dB): 20Hz-20kHz
Maximum Input Signal: 5V
Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
Max Power: 900 Watts
Low Level Input
Hi-Level Input w/ Smart Engage Auto Turn-on
RCA Output: Front/Rear Summed
Defeatable Crossover: Hi,12dB / Low, 12dB @ 40Hz-350Hz
Thunder EQ: 0-18dB, Freq. 40Hz
Remote Level Control: Subwoofer (Parallelable)
Length: 11-3/8"
Width: 9-7/8"
Height: 2-3/8"
TC-3002 - MTX TC 3002 2 Ch 900 Watt Thunder TC Amplifier
it says it has both rca and speaker level in's
where is frisco tx at how close to beaumont
nevermind i see its above dallas fortworth
MAX Power @ 2 Ohms: 900 Watts Total
RMS Power @ 2 Ohms: 150 Watts x 2 Channels and <1% THD+N
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 300 Watts x 1 Channel Bridged and <1% THD+N
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 75 Watts X 2 Channels and <1% THD+N
Wired Bass Boost Remote Control: Included
Signal-To-Noise Ratio (1 Watt): 80 dB
THD+Noise (Distortion) (1Watt): <0.25%
Frequency Response (-3dB): 20Hz-20kHz
Maximum Input Signal: 5V
Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
Max Power: 900 Watts
Low Level Input
Hi-Level Input w/ Smart Engage Auto Turn-on
RCA Output: Front/Rear Summed
Defeatable Crossover: Hi,12dB / Low, 12dB @ 40Hz-350Hz
Thunder EQ: 0-18dB, Freq. 40Hz
Remote Level Control: Subwoofer (Parallelable)
Length: 11-3/8"
Width: 9-7/8"
Height: 2-3/8"
TC-3002 - MTX TC 3002 2 Ch 900 Watt Thunder TC Amplifier
it says it has both rca and speaker level in's
where is frisco tx at how close to beaumont
nevermind i see its above dallas fortworth
Last edited by jrfonte; Apr 16, 2009 at 12:56 AM.
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From: Arvada, CO
cool! 
i didnt know it had that feature.. but i am still unaware of where the high level inputs would be... oh well
anyways... the Kicker amp has 4 pins for the HLI, 1+, 1- for the left, and 1+, 1- for the right.. what should i use to connect the speaker wires to the pins? and do i really have to splice into my right speakers wires?
i didnt know it had that feature.. but i am still unaware of where the high level inputs would be... oh wellanyways... the Kicker amp has 4 pins for the HLI, 1+, 1- for the left, and 1+, 1- for the right.. what should i use to connect the speaker wires to the pins? and do i really have to splice into my right speakers wires?
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From: se texas
i take it that you didnt get the little harness connector with the amp since you asked that. no you dont have to splice into the right side but you would have to jump the left channel to the right. since you dont have the connector for it strip about an inch off the end of the wire and fold it over and twist it and stick it in the holes just so we can test to see if the amp will stay on with a signal going to it.
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From: se texas
kinda sorta you have left + - and right + - when you connect the left +- take a short piece of wire and jump the left + to right + and left - to right -. your amp has 2 input channels so you want to make sure you have a signal going to each channel because some amps wont sum the channels together like with a mono stereo switch. but just to check and see if it will accept a signal from the hu just connect the left side for now to save you some trouble and see if it will power on like its supposed to without the speaker output connected to the sub.