when my sub is powered on, my amp flickers on and off. and the sub gives a small thump here and there. Is the amp gone, or is the sub blown? thanks for the help.

It was working perfect a few weeks ago, ive tried to re-wire everything. 3 times!

 

Im going to need a lot more info than that. Is there a protection light? (if so whats it doing, etc.)

 

i beleive there is a protection light.. but it does not flicker, or turn on.. only the power light flickers, and the sub gives light thumps... the amp is a MTX audio TC3002. if that helps

 

Bump

 

replace your inline fuse, same thing happened to my buddy.
his power light did that same thing, we put in a new fuse, and it was good to go

 

the fuse by the battery (inline fuse) is not blown...

 

I believe he said replace it.... fuses can fool you sometimes. what size is the fuse that you are using?? You might also check the remote wire and the ground wire to make sure that the connection is still good....

What this really sounds like...is that your either your power wire that is hooked on your battery is corroded or your ground is corroded. Something along the lines of your power setup is faulted.... you might also check your power wire through the truck... has it rubbed a hole in the wire?? Where did you penetrate your firewall to get to your battery? How is your power wire routed?

 

im not sure the exact size of the fuse, it really big. the remote wire is wired to a switch (so i can turn the amp on and off freely) then ran to the back of the radio for power.. the ground wire is grounded to the body (where the floor jack mounts)

there is a little corrosion, but not much. do you really think even a little would cause it?
the power wire is fine, i just checked it the other day when i wired my aux lights. it goes through the firewall on the left side of the truck by the fuse box, then it is ran under the running boards with all of the other wired.

ill then the fuse size when i get a smoke break at work.
-LTZ

 

the fuse is a 100a.
i replaced my old amp so i am starting to think that you guys are right with the wiring. but dont know what it could be!
thanks for the help
-LTZ

 

There are some things in your statement that confuses me

The physical size of the fuse does not coorelate to the amprage limitation. There should be a number on the fuse itself... Is it glass? or plastic?

What size power wire is it? It should be at least 4awg
(that is what the amp recommends.)

How is your power wire connected to your amp? Directly? Is it through a disto block?

Yes a little corrosion is bad , if the gauge of amp wire is small. If you put really small power wire then your amp is going to pull current and if it cannot get enough current to turn on the mosfet array in the amp... it will continue to try to until the protection circuitry is fried.


This is straight out of the owners manual for your amp :

This is in the troubleshooting section

7. Amplifier shutting off and LED flashing off and on:
This is an indication of low or high voltage at the +BATT or the remote portion of the amp. Test the +BATT and the remote portion of the amp with a digital multi-meter. If the voltage at either of these terminals is above 15 volts or below 11 volts, consult an automotive electrical specialist. If voltage is consistently below 11 volts, adding a StreetWires one-farad stiffening capacitor will solve the problem.

I might disagree with the capacitor addition.... I think you have a power problem.

If I had to guess...you did not use 4awg power wire and your corrosion is causing the drop in voltage...


Let me know you have my curiosity going..

 

i will let you know how i solve this. i cannot remember what gauge my wire is. how can i measure it? its pretty thick..

also, the fuse is a 100a and it is plastic.
the power wire is directly connected to the amp.. i will get all of the corrosion off!!!


what else can i inform you of?
-LTZ

 

First of all 100a fuse is very dangerous to run with your configuration. Your amp recommends a 40a. This would not cause you your issue unless you do in fact have a short somewhere and it should be blowing your fuse and it cannot since it is 100amps. Thus putting the strain on your protection circuit in your amp. I would strongly suggest that you take your fuse out and check your entire system for bad wiring. I would leave the fuse out until you find the issue.

After your problem is found replace your fuse with a 40amp fuse.

 

You might also put a volt meter on your battery and see what the voltage is, then start your car and see what the voltage goes to.

Do the same with your amp wire back on the amp. see if they are close or somewhat the same. I would lay odds that either your battery is bad or you have a short somewhere

 

just got a brand new battery, so it cant be that... how can i look for a short or test the voltage if the fuse is not in?
also, just to make sure we are clear on the fuse we are talking about.. its the fuse that is part of the power wire.. not the one on amp.. do you still believe 100 is too much? i agree that 100a is quite a bit but i am just reassuring myself, because this is the fuse that the wire came with...

 

That does not mean that is what needs to be installed. You bought an amp kit and most people run more then 1 item off of it. You purchase amp kits according to wattage. The current draw on your amp is going to dictate the size of fuse you need. Here is what the owners manual for you amp says :

MODEL # FUSE MODEL # FUSE
TC6004 75A TC8001 90A
TC4004 60A TC6001 60A
TC4002 50A TC4001 40A
TC3002 40A TC3001 30A
TC2002 25A


It says 40amp fuse. This is also considering that this amp is the only device that you are powering.

To use a volt meter, you need to put your fuse back in, set the meter to measure dc voltage put the black lead on a good ground place under the hood. Bare metal something you might look and find a hex bolt that is mounted near the fender. Play around with it until you get a voltage reading on the meter. Now place the red positive + lead on your positive pole on the battery. Make sure that your car is on and your amp is still flashing. Watch the voltage as your amp is turning on and off. See if there is any correlation between the two. Now take the fuse out and set the meter to ohms touch the two leads together and make sure that the meter reads 0.00 or short. See if your meter has a way to make a beep when you touch the meter leads together. If not you are going to have to watch the meter and see if a short occurs. Place the + positive or red lead on the power wire side of the fuse (not the battery side) and the other one on a good ground point in the engine. You are wanting a true open here. Meaning a reading in the Meg ohms. or Mohms. If this shows a short then you have a problem. Check your wiring anywhere possible to see where it might be shorted.

Now take the meter back near the amplifier and with the wires connected to the amp do the same as before. See if there is a voltage drop at all from the battery up front. Remove your fuse and pull the power wire and the gound wire out from the amp and check across both wires for a short.

Now if you come to this point and still no result, then push the power wire out of the way and make sure that it is not touching any metal and go plug your fuse back in. Then return to the rear of the truck and test the loose power wire to your loose ground (DO NOT TOUCH THE TWO TOGETHER !) see if you get a constant voltage coming from your battery. you might try while holding the meter leads on the ends of the wires try tugging at both wires to see if the voltage drops. If you still have a problem.....the next step is to check your remote wire.....using the same method. It is so much easier to do this in person then typing....

There is a good possibility that if you replace your fuse with a 40 amp that it might blow it.


I really think that if you replace your fuse up front with a 40amp ...you will know more.