i know an aftermarket remote is 12v.... if u know what u are doing in your explanation of checking for a short, and that works, great, im not gonna knock your method, it doesnt quite make sense to me. i do electric and hvac at work, i deal with low voltage and wiring everyday, troubleshooting is done all the time, from my understanding to check for a dead short u still need a complete path through the meter, i must be overlooking something in your process. its cool, so do what you do

 

Okay, let me simplify the situation.

You have a wire that is connected to ground on one end and nothing on the other.

You take the end that is not hooked to anything and touch it to one lead of the meter.
You take the other lead of the meter and touch it to a bare metal ground.

Your meter should read shorted correct?

This is all I was doing. I was trying to make sure that by accident that the power wire was not shorted. If the wire is shorted then you do have a complete loop. If the wire is not shorted then you will read an open.

You have never checked for a short with reference to ground in HVAC work?

 

got it. guess that was too simple to understand, not sure why that didnt click

 

Okay...thought the bubbles of confusion would settle eventually. It is so hard to explain something on here. I am just used to picking it up and doing it. That is why I am not in management...I am just a lonely EE

 

so, since i did the loop, and it was low numbers, does that mean that i still might have a short? or do i need to do it how screw says also?

 

you are fine. both methods are the same thing.

 

check the voltage from your remote, needs to be 12.

 

Did we ever figure out how big your power cable was?

 

You might try bypassing your remote wire and switch and wire your remote input directly to your constant 12v source under the hood. This would eliminate the possibility of a poor remote connection or a bad switch.

Just take a long piece of wire and connect it to the remote input on your amp and then connect it under your hood on the red battery post and see if your problem duplicates.

If your problem is still there, then chances are your remote wire is good.

Try this method on your ground....
Unhook your ground from your amp and then hook to the black post on your battery.

If your problem is still there, then chances are your ground is good.


Try this same method with your power wire also.

Unhook your power wire from the amp, screw the temp wire in there and run up and place on your red post of your battery.

Use aligator clips if you have them to make sure the temp wire makes a good connection.


Do Not Turn Your H/U Up when this wire is attached !

Chances are the test wire you are using is no where the size you need for the current draw. All we want to see is if we can cause your problem to go away.

 

yall are confusing the hell out that guy and not to mention everyone else who reads this by making simple things complicated.

 

Then you explain it better jrfonte.

Do you think we are trying to confuse him on purpose?

I have offered to talk to him on the phone and walk him through it, and I have been as simplistic as it can be. I have researched on the internet and sent him excerps of his owners manual with the problem identified. Short of flying there and looking at it myself..there is not much more that I can offer.

I have mentioned numerous times to take it somewhere and have them check it out in person.

That is more then you are doing ...Way to Go!

You have added so much more information to this thread!

Replying and criticizing the people that are trying to help is the way to get yourself absolutely no help in the future.


If post # 84 confused you, you might not want to even click on threads of people that need help.

In life there are learning curves. Not everyone has the same background. There are numerous ways to troubleshoot and solve problems.. If I was in his shoes and I had the same problem he did I would be really thankful that there were good people that were willing to help...and everyone was not like you.

 

not trying to be confusing, all u have to do is read each post step by step.
really to simplify, if any wires shorted the fuse would go. prolly amp or hu. check and recheck ground, call it a day

 

hahahaha actually im not all that confused.. i actually under stand what he is saying
yes, it is a 4 gauge.. and i got my 60a fuse today also.

would speaker wire be OK to use for the "test" power/ground wires? i understand to not turn it up loud

 

Screw, AND JJ, you have been a huge help in trying to get this thing fixed, i have just been so caught up with things, its been hard to get around to doing what your asking of me.... but thank you guys for helping me everystep of the way.. its greatly appreciated.

 

cool git r done