Damn! - I'll find my other pics , hang on lol. I don't want to tell you wrong, - that cable on top looks black , it should be red. I may have been changed at some point, by someone else. Iduno, hang on.

 

the short wire on top is larger gauge red wire, the other wire on top is smaller and wrapped...I am assuming that is the signal wire that goes to the smaller post on the starter. The furthest back wire is a ground and it actually is the second wire that is runnning into the double nutted bolt, so I think that hooks up to one of the posts on the starter and runs to the ground bolt on the trans...otherwise I wouldnt have 3 wires running to the starter...

 

ill keep checking this but I think Im going to go ahead and try hooking it up the way I am thinking because even if it was modified at some point (which it really doesnt look like it to me) it still worked just fine in the other truck

 

I think that's right as well. What a drag, I have to many DVD's full of pics, I'm looking tho.

 

Found what I was looking for, -can't believe it, but here it is -



The far left (Green) is that double trans bolt.

 

Engines with the composite intake, the ground came off a mounting plate on the back side of the passenger head. I left mine there (during swap) and kept the intake ground, so I have both of them running to the firewall.


Man you guys are fast. By the time I got my pic of the starter up, you already finished half of a new page. Simma down
I even went out in the freezing dark to crawl under and take a pic of it...

 

I swapped them and IT IS STILL DOING IT!!! At this point do I try swapping starters? I really dont want to have to go buy a new starter when I have 2 of them here that both worked fine before the swap. Is there anything else I could be missing? Is there anything else that would affect the starting system in front of the relay? At this point either something is bad, or there is something wrong on the other side of the relay or something because I have pulled the starter & bendix tried the wiring just about everyway possible, and tried both wiring harness setups...at this point I dont know where to go other than replacing parts which I am trying to avoid if at all possible

 

ya that mounting plate on the back of the firewall is a major PIA but it should be hooked up correctly I believe.

 

Are you getting a click at the starter?
Have you tried turning the motor over by hand from the crank bolt since you got the transmission mounted?
I'm not sure if it maters but which flex plate did you use?

 

Dang man, you can have mine

 

What do the gauges do when you crank, or try to crank ? It must be that Interrupt and PATS.

This isn't the correct diagram, not exactly anyways. But it shows what I'm referring to with PATS and Interrupt. Top right corner.



Make sure your cranking volts is good. 12.4 before crank should be enough, but you never know.

 

yes I am getting a loud click and then nothing...when I had the wires to the starter backwards as soon as I hooked up the battery you could hear the starter start free spinning so I know its getting power...and yes I put a long ratchet on it and turned it over like 5-6 revolutions last night just to make sure it wasnt that. I will go check the dash for the PATS issue but I think the truck is happy PATS wise and also when I did have an issue with them in the truck before we pulled the engine, it would still turn over but it had no spark I think so it would just turn over without firing.

 

Starting to think the starter/bendix is faulty. Since at one point there was no ground, the post broke off, wires were crossed and something else.. May have caused a short somehow. I would pull it, get it up on the bench and ground it. Hit it with some power and see if it is operating correctly. The loud click and humming if you hold it sounds like either low voltage (which you said in one of your posts you had 12.5 to the starter, but what about the draw when you have the key turned over? Ive seen cars that show 12v at the battery and the main starter but when turned over drops down to 8-10) or a faulty bendix/solenoid. Unless the click is coming from the relay.....

 

I am personally thinking starter as Im thinking the loud click is the bendix pushing the starter out to engage but then the starter does not turn...I think im gonna pull the starter swap the bendix over to the other starter and see what it does...if it still does not work I am lost!

Oh and I tried it with my battery charger hooked up, tried 2Amp, 10amp, and then the 55amp start mode and nothing changed...

 

as far as the dash goes when I turn the key on everything sweeps like normal, all the lights come on and then most shut off including the security light so I think PATS is happy but who the hell knows at this point!