Motor swap in progress...4.6L is OUT!!!

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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #61  
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Progress! should have it running tonight...Idk if it will shift automatically though, I talked to a few very knowledgeable people today and there are different opinions on whether the dash harness really needed to be swapped so Im gonna find out what it does before I swap them (if nothing else it will help the next person that goes to do this swap)

 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:04 AM
  #62  
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Nice!!! Looking good man!!! You'll have to record a video of first start and put it on here.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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So,
hows it coming along??????

Phil
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #64  
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I was gone all weekend so it is still pretty much in the same point...its very close and I am going to try to fire it tonight, BUT the last thing is still the dash...it is totally torn appart right now and I talked to your guy Matt (who said he never pulled yours or swapped harness but thinks he might have added a couple wires in the engine harness) and also Mad ferraist and both were very knoledgeable both think the current harness will be fine but nobody knows for sure so I am going to finish everthing else and see what it does before swapping harnesses, if nothing else just so we all konw for the next guy
 

Last edited by mxr181; Feb 20, 2011 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #65  
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well I think I have it pretty much ready to start, but its not turning over, I had to change the starter solenoid and Im pretty sure I did it correctly but something is not quite right, once I get it figured out it should be ready to fire...if the key is cycled several times, is it possible to totally flood the engine as well? Im going to pull the fuel pump fuse today, but I think I may have flooded it yesterday and worried I might have to worry about a hydrolock situation...cound this be true?

Also ford says the axle takes 5.5 pints of fluid which is a little over 2.5 quarts...I have a little more than 2.5qts in it plus a bottle and a half of friction modifier...should I leave it where it is or continue filling until it comes out the fill plug?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Manual says 5.5-6.9 which could be up to 3qts. I would fill it.
I'm not sure how the starting system works on that matter. I think if you turn it over for longer than 4 seconds it shuts the injectors down. Is it turning over?
 

Last edited by Toyz; Feb 21, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:40 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by mxr181
well I think I have it pretty much ready to start, but its not turning over, I had to change the starter solenoid and Im pretty sure I did it correctly but something is not quite right, once I get it figured out it should be ready to fire...if the key is cycled several times, is it possible to totally flood the engine as well? Im going to pull the fuel pump fuse today, but I think I may have flooded it yesterday and worried I might have to worry about a hydrolock situation...cound this be true?

Also ford says the axle takes 5.5 pints of fluid which is a little over 2.5 quarts...I have a little more than 2.5qts in it plus a bottle and a half of friction modifier...should I leave it where it is or continue filling until it comes out the fill plug?

Cycling the key only primes the pump. If the fuel injectors are not leaking you are fine. Fill the front differential till the fluid is just even with the fill hole.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #68  
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No it's not turning over...I think it did like once before I broke a post off the old starter solenoid but I'm pretty sure I put the new one in correctly and I think it's wired correctly so I'm going to have to try to figure out what is going on. Right now I am just getting a click and then a short whine and I stop trying.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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I would check the battery and cables.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #70  
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ok the battery is charged and I think the cables are good because I am getting power down to the starter. What is the part attacted to the starter that the cables connect to? I tried jumping that and I got a large arc, so there is definetly power going down there but I am wondering if there is anyway I have the cables backwards? If anyone is willing to post a picture of the cables attacting to your starter that would help me eliminate one more possibility! I alsp tried jumping the "starter solenoid" on the firewall up by the battery and nothing changed...loud click and If I leave the key turned it will start to make a high pitched squeal / noise so obviously I stop trying to crank. At this point it has been only me so I cant try cranking it and be under the truck to listen to it to try and figure out exactly where the noise is coming from but hopefully I will get a second hand later tonight. should I pull the whole starter out, put the part that attaches to the starter back on my spare starter and try that? I am convinced it has something to do with the way I have the starter cables hooked up, the starter itself, or the part that bolts on to the starter but Im kinda guessing at this point...any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:25 AM
  #71  
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this starter issue is really starting to get to me...the truck should be running by now! I pulled the starter and bendix drive out, took them apart double checked them and then put it all back together correctly. I pulled the fender liner for more room and traced the starter cables, and realized I was missing a ground to the frame, so I took care of that but I am still getting just a CLICK and then nothing! All these parts were working just fine so I would think they are all still ok. The battery has a little over 12.5V and I think the cables and stuff are good because I hooked up the starter leads / cables backwards at first and the starter motor spins just fine, which also tells me the starter should be ok...I dont get where else the problem could be coming from. Oh I also spun the motor by hand no problem so its not that either...I dont know where else to look - please help!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:53 AM
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Should look like this, minus the red stuff. There's also TWO other grounds (not pictured). Well, you can see the main ground if you look close (bottom starter bolt , back at the trans). One goes to the tranny/starter bottom bolt and the other routes to the frame behind the passenger side tire. They both need to be connected well.

 

Last edited by jbrew; Feb 22, 2011 at 03:57 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 04:24 AM
  #73  
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Red--- Directly to the battery, then starter solenoid.
Green- Directly to the battery. -Engine ground, Frame ground (Cable double backs).
Yellow-Solenoid or Bendix connect only.

 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #74  
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Check your starter cables for corrosion. Both ends.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #75  
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THANK YOU jbrew! Everything looks the same EXCEPT I don't have a ground going to the bottom of the starter to trans so hopefully that is all it is. I didn't see that cable anywhere this morning but was in a hurry. I will try to get it squared away this afternoon and see if that fixes it...crossing my fingers!
 
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