Gauges should respond this way when starting -

My 98 -

https://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew39...90121627213570

Heres a better one, my old 2001 -

https://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew39...84705673453298

I bet you wish yours would fire up like those two

But that's what the gauges do when everything is proper. Nothing, no sweep action

Did you see the theft light with the 01. Yours isn't blinking is it?

so what would cause them to sweep then? I was thinking the sweeping is normal but I guess not. I just changed the starter and still have the same issue, is PATS able to keep it from turning over? I thought it was only able to kill spark?

no theft light...when we had an issue with the donor truck (five0merc accidentally shorted a wire when we were jumping it) the PATS was unhappy, the cluster would show dashes instead of the mileage and it gave us a code by blinking the theft light...right now it is showing mileage and no theft light issues, BUT the gauges are sweeping...

Yea, that's killing your power to the starter. So, your PCM needs to be flashed. Call a dealership and just inquire, then ask how much lol.

but the PCM is matched with everything in the truck except the dash harness, and I was told it would still start with the harness just wasnt sure if the trans was going to shift...I have the matching key, ignition, cluster, and pcm so you really think its the PATS?

Yea, I think its PATS, if it's doing anything out of the ordinary. Your getting gauge sweeping and triggering the starter interrupt IMO. As you can see in the diagram, the theft system is wired directly to the interrupt.

just a thought...could it possibly be giving some sort of diagnostic code? the theft light isnt flashing but maybe a dtc or something I could check with my xcal2? I do not have any tuning on the truck yet...wanted to get it running before I started messing with that.

Do you think if I try to get one of the tuners to make a stock tune but shut off the pats system it would fix this? I know that is not the right way to fix it but at this point I would like to atleast figure out of it is the computer or if something else isnt hooked up / connected incorrectly. And I really dont want to take it to the dealer the way it is because they are probably going to try to point out all kinds of issues that they can.

Also thinking maybe the dash not being 100% complete could be messing with it somehow? I am tempted to just swap the harnesses and put it all back together but man that is a TON of work to do if I dont know if will fix the issue for sure.

I really thought by using everything from the donor I would not be having issues like this...I thought I did all my homework and was doing it all the right way...really getting frustrated with this thing!

Yea, I'm not sure past this point. Right now, it isn't getting past the PATS. Someone in the tuning section might know more, -or even electrical.

ok well thank you sooooo much guys!...Jbrew I think I owe you a case of brews! I will keep you guys updated on what I figure out...thankfully I still have a week and half before it HAS to be running BUT I JUST WANT TO BE DONE WITH IT AT THIS POINT! but well get it figured out one way or another...if anybody has more ideas please throw them out there!

Everything that I have researched in the electrical section (past few minutes), and I may be wrong (don't know much about the PATS) but if there is a fault in the PATS system for whatever reason that the truck will still turn over but not start. And is normally accommodated by a blinking theft light. The gauges sweeping and a click at the starter still indicates a dead battery to me. If the batter is charged, then something has a loose connection somewhere. But again, I may be wrong.

ya same here, I went through several threads and am finding the same thing...its just wierd because I put a charger on start mode on 55amp and it did the same thing, but the battery itself did read slightly lower tonight, I think just under 12.5. The wierd thing to me is it should still try to crank even slowly but its not even trying. I left the charger on overnight and will give it a shot tomorrow...hopefully also a couple friends that are much better with electrical will make it over tomorrow to take a look.

There's a cluster test mode you might try. Not sure if it will work, but-maybe it will reset something important lol.

To enter the IC dealer test mode:

- On the cluster, hold the SELECT/RESET button in
- Turn ignition switch to RUN (I think the second position)
- Hold SELECT/RESET button in for about 5 seconds until display says ENGINEERING TEST MODE
- Then press the button in to cycle thru all the stages of the self test.

To exit, just hold the button in for about 3 seconds or just turn ignition to OFF.

ok thanks...ill give it a shot!