Ah well thank you! You saved me a ton of time with phone calls and searching. Thanks!

 

Let me know if you need follower help. You'll have to position the piston of the cylinder being repaired at the bottom of the stroke. The roller followers are positional. Mark the followers for installation in their original locations. You'll also need a Valve Spring Compressor and a Valve Spring Spacer.

Oh , and yes, remove the Cam Cover first.

 

I will let you know. I placed an order last night on the auto-rx so I'll do that when it comes in. I've read with auto-rx and MMO that I will need to change my oil within 50 miles as it breaks up the sludge and gunk inside the motor. Is that true? Not that it breaks it up, I understand it does that, but the 50 miles?

If the ticking is there after the rx treatment I will be going into the covers and opening that up.

Back to the misfire for a moment. What is the correct voltage these plugs that plug into the COPS should be producing? I'm wondering if maybe since it's two thin wires, maybe one has worn out? I'd like to hook a voltage meter into it and find out.

This was a Florida truck, moved to RI in August or so to be with family to help them out since they are very sick. It's not used to the cold for this long. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it.

 

Basic Instructions for Auto-Rx® and
Instructions for High-Mileage Vehicles

For vehicles in good condition with less than 100,000 miles. This will work for stuck rings, most stuck lifters, and many other situations that are under forced (pressurized) circulation. Not for sludge! Vehicles with more than 100,000 miles will require a second application (2 bottles total).
STEP 1 Change the oil and filter. NOTE: If you recently had an oil change and are using conventional or an approved synthetic oil, you may add Auto-Rx® to the existing oil sump. Each bottle of Auto-Rx® contains 12 fluid ounces.
STEP 2 Pour one bottle of Auto-Rx® into your 4-6 quart oil sump.
STEP 3 Drive 3,000 miles.
STEP 4
Change the oil and oil filter.Your treatment is done.
For high-mileage vehicles, a second treatment is required, but drive at least 3,000 miles before adding Auto-Rx® to a fresh sump. Then, repeat Steps 1 through 4.

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For all engines with sludge.

FOR BEST RESULTS, USE ONLY CONVENTIONAL OR ONE OF THE APPROVED SYNTHETIC OILS TO REMOVE SLUDGE. Most synthetic oils have a complex additive package that holds oil to metal, which also applies to sludge and therefore hinders the safe removal of sludge. Warning: The use of any oil not approved for Auto-Rx® will cause the sludge to return as though it had never been removed! See LIST OF APPROVED OILS here>>

If you have questions about the application instructions, contact our technical support via email at technicalarx@gmail.com. Detail your problem, giving the make of vehicle, type of engine, mileage, oil used, etc. ALL OTHER QUESTIONS, contact Frank Miller at auto_rx@bellsouth.net or call 904-273-9098.
STEP 1 Change oil and filter; then add Auto-Rx® at a ratio of 3 ounces per quart of oil to the crankcase with a fresh oil change and filter. Each bottle of Auto-Rx® contains 12 fluid ounces. If you recently had an oil change and are using conventional or an approved synthetic oil, go ahead and add Auto-Rx® to the oil already in the crankcase.
STEP 2 Run the motor for 5 minutes or so to blend the Auto-Rx® into the host motor oil. For best results, run with conventional oil or an approved synthetic oil.
STEP 3 Over time, drive the vehicle 2,500 miles with normal driving habits. About halfway through the first cleaning cycle at 1200-1300 miles, change the oil filter only (may not be necessary in the second cleaning phase; see NOTE below.) If necessary, top off the oil (but do not add Auto-Rx® or other additives); then finish the remaining 1200-1300 miles in the cleaning phase. This completes the first cleaning phase.
STEP 4 Begin Rinse Phase: Drain the oil and refill with fresh oil and a new filter. Again, use conventional oil or an approved synthetic oil.
STEP 5 Over time, drive 3,000 miles; then change the oil and filter again to complete the rinse phase.
STEP 6 Congratulations! Your first sludge application is finished. For heavy sludge, repeat STEPS 1 THROUGH 5 to complete the second sludge removal application. After cleaning, add 2-3 ounces of Auto-Rx® with each oil change to keep the engine clean. You may now use any oil.

NOTE—CHANGE FILTER AT HALFWAY POINT: For heavy sludge, we recommend changing out the filter at the 1200-1300 mile mark, because the oil filter can become loaded before completing the 2500 miles of running. In that case, a fully loaded filter will go into the bypass mode whereby the filter is no longer capturing the contaminants,and the contaminants would then be circulating throughout the oiling system. This is counterproductive and undesirable, as Auto-Rx® works best with maximum oil flow throughout the oiling system. Heavy sludge applications will require a second treatment. In most cases, however, it will not be necessary to change the filter at the halfway mark during the second application of Auto-Rx®.

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Fast-Track Instructions for Auto-Rx®

For emissions control, ring packs, and vehicles that do not meet the mileage requirements of the Basic and Sludge applications, such as:
Classic cars that drive only 2,000–3,000 miles per year.
Vehicles that recently failed a smog or emissions test and need a 30-day remedy.
Vehicles that need only to clean up ring packs.
Vehicles that need to switch over to full synthetics to take full advantage of extended drain intervals.
Vehicles that need to change to synthetic oil prior to cold weather setting in.

SPECIAL NOTE: After reading the instructions and you still have questions, contact our technical support rep at technicalarx@gmail.com. This is a double-dose treatment, and strict terms and conditions apply. When contacting us, include the year, make, model, annual mileage, typical driving events (daily driver, occasional driver, duration of driving events, high-speed, urban, etc.)STEP 1 For best results, Auto-Rx® should be added to a fresh charge of conventional (non-synthetic) oil with a new oil filter installed. Pour 1 bottle of Auto-Rx® into the motor oil of a warm motor. NOTE: If you recently had an oil change and are using conventional or an approved synthetic oil, you may add Auto-Rx® to the existing oil sump. Each bottle of Auto-Rx® contains 12 fluid ounces.
STEP 2 After adding Auto-Rx®, run the motor for 5 minutes to disperse Auto-Rx® into the motor oil.
STEP 3 Over time, drive normally for 750-1000 miles to allow Auto-Rx® to gently cleanse the oiling system internals.
STEP 4 Drain the oil, change the filter, and refill with either conventional or Group III oil. DO NOT USE HIGH-MILEAGE OR SYNTHETIC OILS.
STEP 5 In this rinse phase, operate the vehicle as you normally would to accumulate at least 1,000 miles before draining the oil. If you are not making the change to a Group IV synthetic, you may run the conventional or Group III oil for longer than the 1,000 miles listed above. You may run the conventional or Group III oil to a maximum of 2,000 miles during this rinse phase.
STEP 6 Congratulations! Your application is done. Drain the oil, replace the filter, and add any oil of your choice. (If necessary, you may run a second application by repeating Steps 1- 5.) We highly recommend that you use the maintenance program after each oil change regardless of oil choice.

 

It looks like someone put silicone on top of that plug. If so, it would insulate the plug from the coil, and cancel any spark it producedl

 

That's dielectric grease. And the least of his worries.

 

I'm a firm believer that will keep it from firing period. Come to find out, It can and has. It depends on the type of dielectric used. You would think ignition dielectric would be all the same, I did ! Nope !

 

So that dielectric grease that's on there shouldn't be on there then? I got a cylinder 1 misfire this morning, along with 8 again.

 

If that is dielectric grease, it should have spread from the heat of the engine. It is just a big blob.

 

And here's the update. I broke down and brought it to the local ford mechanic that all my FD guys go to. Almost a month ago now, just got it back today only because I was being a pest to this guy. In the 3+ weeks they've had it, I got 2 phone calls. Many promises for return phone calls and nothing. They said they had roughly 2 hours into it and don't know what's going on. The internet site they post on is telling them to tell me to go to Ford.....So in other words, pass the problem along to someone else since they have no damn clue.

He came into the room saying that I'm going to need new coils. Now I've put 16+ new friggin coils into the thing. It can't keep being the coils.

He didn't charge me anything, I don't know out of guilt maybe for wasting my time and using a quarter tank of fuel, so I'm happy about that.

And I brought it to Ford, paid the $100 for them to simply look at it and they tell me its misfiring...well no sh*t. But that's all they're saying, and that they don't know how far down the rabbit hole goes and how they dont want to rack up my bill then find out that the coils simply aren't the issue. The lady on the phone is telling me that it's her and I'm quoting word for word here...her gut feeling that it's internal. Well that's not doing me any good.

I've never been to a dealer before but this is insane, I need to know what the problem is and can't continue to guess. I'm simply beyond frustrated at this point and don't know what else to do about this friggin misfire. Go figure the ticking went away...

 

My 99 F150 5.4 used to make that ticking noise from your videos, the cause of that noise was my #4 spark plug getting ready to spit out of the head. I didn't have a mis-fire though at first, that came after the plug spit out of the head and was laying on top of the engine. Did you or anyone check the plugs for proper torque? Just a thought I had due to my past experience.

 

They're telling me it's my coils and plugs, that I need motor craft for both, so I went ahead and bought both, all 8 motorcraft. I'm then going to do a compression check.

 

Compression check is complete and here's the results.
Cyl 1: 195psi
Cyl 2: 97psi
Cyl 3: 135psi
Cyl 4: 95psi
Cyl 5: 190psi
Cyl 6: 175psi
Cyl 7: 133psi
Cyl 8: 185psi

A few things to note, throttle was fully opened, and did 5 full cranks of the motor.

 

You definitely have some problems. 2 and 4 are real bad, 3 and 7 have problems, and 6 is starting to get weak. I think you are looking at a rebuild unless it's just carboned and sludged up real bad.

Did you do the compression test again after putting about a teaspoonful of oil down the holes? If the compression comes back up, you have stuck rings. If not, it's a valve issue.

 

Have not done the oil yet, will be doing that later this evening or tomorrow morning. Will report back with results.