Any one order a battery on the web?
#46
12-01-2008, 01:24 AM
Hey Jbrew, and others.....
you had that list of specs for the Odyssey battery your using.... (or, just one you found the specs for)
....and yes, only 550 CCA amps, for a $246 battery ? Yes, that is pretty crappy.
I'm actually looking at the model 65-PC1750, with 930 CCA, which if labeled by Oddysey, would run about $300.... But again, labled by Sears as a Platinum P1, it runs about $200.
From what the high end stereo gurus I know, tell me, this is a better battery than any yellow, or redtop......
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hey Norm, I was just going by really old memories of that Readers Digest article..... and lots of more recent personal experiences, but so long as we agree on the bottom line....
Setting batteries on concrete won't usually hurt anything. BTW, mine are often even wet, when coming out of my boat.... but never with overflown battery acid. Just lake water :-)
Peace,
Fish
....and yes, only 550 CCA amps, for a $246 battery ? Yes, that is pretty crappy.
I'm actually looking at the model 65-PC1750, with 930 CCA, which if labeled by Oddysey, would run about $300.... But again, labled by Sears as a Platinum P1, it runs about $200.
From what the high end stereo gurus I know, tell me, this is a better battery than any yellow, or redtop......
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hey Norm, I was just going by really old memories of that Readers Digest article..... and lots of more recent personal experiences, but so long as we agree on the bottom line....
Setting batteries on concrete won't usually hurt anything. BTW, mine are often even wet, when coming out of my boat.... but never with overflown battery acid. Just lake water :-)
Peace,
Fish
#47
12-01-2008, 01:44 AM
you had that list of specs for the Odyssey battery your using.... (or, just one you found the specs for)
....and yes, only 550 CCA amps, for a $246 battery ? Yes, that is pretty crappy.
I'm actually looking at the model 65-PC1750, with 930 CCA, which if labeled by Oddysey, would run about $300.... But again, labled by Sears as a Platinum P1, it runs about $200.
From what the high end stereo gurus I know, tell me, this is a better battery than any yellow, or redtop......
Peace,
Fish
....and yes, only 550 CCA amps, for a $246 battery ? Yes, that is pretty crappy.
I'm actually looking at the model 65-PC1750, with 930 CCA, which if labeled by Oddysey, would run about $300.... But again, labled by Sears as a Platinum P1, it runs about $200.
From what the high end stereo gurus I know, tell me, this is a better battery than any yellow, or redtop......
Peace,
Fish
I didn't just randomly pic a battery on the site
If I was going to shop for a replacement in that manner, I wouldn't be inquiring at all about it. Nah, I care more about than that..
#48
12-01-2008, 03:05 AM
#49
12-01-2008, 03:21 AM
Good one again Roger -
Concrete HAS to be capable of being a "ground" doesn't it? "Ground" is, after all, nothing more than rock and soil - components of which go into concrete. And, since your plasma cutter was sitting on the floor, right? (Probably has a grounded case). The circuit was complete with the negative terminal touching the concrete. I guess you don't want to be holding the conductive part of the negative cable or YOU become part of the ground circuit (to the floor and back to the case).
But, of course, a battery case itself HAS to be a fairly good insulator or the battery would self-discharge in no time. So, sitting the case on the floor, or even in salt water should have no effect as long as the case was clean and the conductive medium (water or even concrete) was kept away from the terminals.
- Jack
Concrete HAS to be capable of being a "ground" doesn't it? "Ground" is, after all, nothing more than rock and soil - components of which go into concrete. And, since your plasma cutter was sitting on the floor, right? (Probably has a grounded case). The circuit was complete with the negative terminal touching the concrete. I guess you don't want to be holding the conductive part of the negative cable or YOU become part of the ground circuit (to the floor and back to the case).
But, of course, a battery case itself HAS to be a fairly good insulator or the battery would self-discharge in no time. So, sitting the case on the floor, or even in salt water should have no effect as long as the case was clean and the conductive medium (water or even concrete) was kept away from the terminals.
- Jack
I can tell you for a fact from personal experience that if the battery is clean and dry the case is an excellent insulator. I have had batteries sitting on the floor for long periods (several months) and a strong battery fully charged lost no more charge than it would on the bench or anywhere else.
#50
12-01-2008, 03:39 AM
How much does a Motorcraft battery go for?
I still had the original one in my 99 when I traded it off twoish years ago.
Remember that 97 six banger I told you about JBrew?? It still has the original battery too, although it is to the point where it WILL leave me stranded this winter if I dont change it out. Thats a damn 11 year old battery though
I still had the original one in my 99 when I traded it off twoish years ago.
Remember that 97 six banger I told you about JBrew?? It still has the original battery too, although it is to the point where it WILL leave me stranded this winter if I dont change it out. Thats a damn 11 year old battery though
PS- The (GNB) Motorcraft batteries always tested 12.8 volts when charged when the normal voltage for most all batteries runs 12.6.
Last edited by code58; 12-02-2008 at 03:46 AM.
#51
12-01-2008, 08:35 PM
This is for you Bartak and Jbrew too. Ford used to use on of the best batteries made. Gould National Battery (GNB). Before or about when the '04's came out GNB sold out to Excide. They are made by Excide now and that's why they are a piece of c**p. Gould never sold a battery under their name but made for many retailers. I have owned Ford PU's for many,many years as well as working for 3 ford dealers over the years. I have ALWAYS tested batteries and can tell you they (GNB) were one heck of a battery. They would take one heck of a beating even in a collision and still test just fine (with a beat up case). Those days were over my friends when Excide bought them. I don't even know who makes Ford's batteries now but there isn't anyone for Ford to even choose from to produce a battery like GNB made. Buy a Motorcraft if you want but don't expect the life you got out of them in the past- it's not gonna happen!
PS- The (GNB) Motorcraft batteries always tested 12.8 volts when charged when the normal voltage for most all batteries runs 12.6.
PS- The (GNB) Motorcraft batteries always tested 12.8 volts when charged when the normal voltage for most all batteries runs 12.6.
Very interesting tidbit of info
Guess I wont be running out to grab a Motorcraft battery anytime soon.When I went to start the truck this morning I was sweating a little bit turning it over...and it was 25* out
Once it actually starts getting cold around here I will be screwed. Hopefully I can find a battery to upgrade to in the 06 and throw the battery out of that in the 97 before it DOES crap out. Figure a nicer new battery in the 06 wouldnt hurt it with the stereo, soon to be efans, lights, etc...
#52
12-02-2008, 07:56 AM
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I got my truck about 2 years ago and between the addition of lights,stereo and alarm i kept having problems with the stock battery. So i went to advanced and got one of there high dollar battery's which didnt last long, So i finally just bought a redtop. Havent had any problems and the volt meter on my head unit says it runs at about 13.9 volts which i dont know how accurate that is.
#53
12-02-2008, 09:59 AM
I got my truck about 2 years ago and between the addition of lights,stereo and alarm i kept having problems with the stock battery. So i went to advanced and got one of there high dollar battery's which didnt last long, So i finally just bought a redtop. Havent had any problems and the volt meter on my head unit says it runs at about 13.9 volts which i dont know how accurate that is.
If you have accessories "on", the voltage will drop, depending on the load demanded by the accessory.
- Jack
#54
12-02-2008, 12:29 PM
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The 13.9V would be your charging voltage, and that is a normal reading. To find out what voltage your battery has "stored", you need to connect a voltmeter to the terminals with all accessories off, and you want to do this several hours AFTER the truck has been driven, so that the "surface charge" has worn off. You'll probably see something in the neighborhood of 12.6-12.8V if you do this.
- Jack
- Jack
With engine running you are measuring the alternator's output voltage NOT the battery voltage. The alternator's output has to be higher than the battery voltage or it will not charge. This is governed by the voltage regulator in the alternator and can be as high as 14.4. Voltage regulators vary from car to car. Manufacturers choose a voltage based on the demands of their design.
Once the alternator is stopped (engine off) you are measuring the voltage produced by the battery. Most car/truck batteries are made up of 6 cells that produce about 2.1 volts each. Some are higher but you will usually end up with about 12.6 volts on a standard lead/acid battery.
Any additional voltage above this would be capacitively stored by all systems in the truck and will dissipate fairly quickly after the alternator is stopped.
#55
12-02-2008, 02:38 PM
"Surface charge"??
With engine running you are measuring the alternator's output voltage NOT the battery voltage. The alternator's output has to be higher than the battery voltage or it will not charge. This is governed by the voltage regulator in the alternator and can be as high as 14.4. Voltage regulators vary from car to car. Manufacturers choose a voltage based on the demands of their design.
Once the alternator is stopped (engine off) you are measuring the voltage produced by the battery. Most car/truck batteries are made up of 6 cells that produce about 2.1 volts each. Some are higher but you will usually end up with about 12.6 volts on a standard lead/acid battery.
Any additional voltage above this would be capacitively stored by all systems in the truck and will dissipate fairly quickly after the alternator is stopped.
With engine running you are measuring the alternator's output voltage NOT the battery voltage. The alternator's output has to be higher than the battery voltage or it will not charge. This is governed by the voltage regulator in the alternator and can be as high as 14.4. Voltage regulators vary from car to car. Manufacturers choose a voltage based on the demands of their design.
Once the alternator is stopped (engine off) you are measuring the voltage produced by the battery. Most car/truck batteries are made up of 6 cells that produce about 2.1 volts each. Some are higher but you will usually end up with about 12.6 volts on a standard lead/acid battery.
Any additional voltage above this would be capacitively stored by all systems in the truck and will dissipate fairly quickly after the alternator is stopped.
If you charge a battery, and then remove it from the charger, it will initially have a fairly high no-load voltage reading. You'll get this reading even with the battery completely disconnected from the electrical bus. This higher than normal voltage will drop of it's own accord within a couple of hours and will stabilize in the 12.8-12.6V range. That high initial reading is commonly called a "surface charge".
There COULD be some capacitive effect in the vehicle's electronics I suppose, but this is NOT what I was talking about. You can see the surface charge effect most easily on a simple NICAD or NMHI battery. Charge it fully and measure the voltage right after you take it off the charger. Measure it again about two hours later - it will have dropped noticeably. Measure it a day later and the voltage will NOT have dropped significantly (if the battery is good).
I remember reading an explanation of the surface charge effect about 50 years ago, but I can't seem to recall the details now. :o
- Jack
#56
12-02-2008, 03:06 PM
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I am not trying to start a fight either. It is great for us to educate each other.
I have just not seen this "surface charge" effect. It is important to clarify for some that batteries are not technically a storage device. They produce voltage from a chemical reaction. The reaction is reversed by charging.
A capacitor is strictly a storage device and cannot produce voltage on its own.
I suspect the "surface charge" effect is just that; a capacitive charge stored on the plates or parts of the battery.
I have just not seen this "surface charge" effect. It is important to clarify for some that batteries are not technically a storage device. They produce voltage from a chemical reaction. The reaction is reversed by charging.
A capacitor is strictly a storage device and cannot produce voltage on its own.
I suspect the "surface charge" effect is just that; a capacitive charge stored on the plates or parts of the battery.
#57
12-02-2008, 03:23 PM
No kidding! A concrete floor and it still held it's charge ? The one I had was from Walmart, but I've left the lights on all day / shut them off / gave it 10 minutes and it fired up. I was surprised..That one was only 3 years old..I would like one that at-least had that type of recovery.
#59
12-02-2008, 04:00 PM
No kidding! A concrete floor and it still held it's charge ? The one I had was from Walmart, but I've left the lights on all day / shut them off / gave it 10 minutes and it fired up. I was surprised..That one was only 3 years old..I would like one that at-least had that type of recovery.