4r70w options
I keep thinking about this and it might be a good idea to just get down to what the issue is and what might cause that and eliminate what definitely won't cause it.
From what you are saying, the truck is obviously commanding 3rd gear and the transmission is not making that shift. That is the problem.
The way that it isn't making the shift definitely eliminates an electrical issue. If it were an electrical issue it wouldn't neutral out because the shift solenoid wouldn't energize and the transmission would stay in 2nd gear. The fact that it does neutral eliminates electrical. First gear has shift solenoid 1 on, second gear has both shift solenoids off, 3rd gear has shift solenoid 2 on and 4th gear has both ss1 and ss2 on. We know that shift solenoid 1 is working because you have first gear and we know that shift solenoid 2 is working because it neutrals out for a shift to 3rd.
Nothing electrical is going to cause a neutral. Neutral means that somethign is being commanded to happen through working electriconics and it's not happening.
So it has to be either mechanical or hydraulic and that means it is the fault of the transmission builder. If it never at any time afer it was rebuilt had a 2-3 shift that is.
If there ever was a 2-3 shift and then the problem happened it may be a broken intermediate stub shaft or the splines are stripped out of where the stub shaft splines to either the forward or direct clutch drums. The builder could have done everything right and one of those happened after he did his job. Breakage after the build is the only way that this can't be the problem of the builder.
Missing a broken stub shaft or drum with stripped splines while rebuilding one is highly unlikely. So, unless the guy is just flat blind or stupid, we can pretty much eliminate those things.
If a 2-3 shift never happened after the rebuild at all then it can be a problem in the valve body or a problem with any of the seals relating to direct clutch operation. It can also be a problem in the case where you are losing pressure when it calls for a 2-3 shift, but that isn't likely unless it's a BIG leak.
An air test would have shown a leak in the case or any of the seals. If the builder actually did properly air test it and knew what he was doing then he definitely would have found any problem there.
So, assuming that he did air test it and there was no problem found, that is going to leave one of the possible mechanical issues or a messed up valve body. Swapping in a known good valve body would eliminate that problem and may be worth a try if all else fails.
If they continue to try and claim it's electrical then ask them to explain to you how you get a neutral through an electrical issue. I woudl laove to hear that one. LOL
Good luck with it.
Darrin
From what you are saying, the truck is obviously commanding 3rd gear and the transmission is not making that shift. That is the problem.
The way that it isn't making the shift definitely eliminates an electrical issue. If it were an electrical issue it wouldn't neutral out because the shift solenoid wouldn't energize and the transmission would stay in 2nd gear. The fact that it does neutral eliminates electrical. First gear has shift solenoid 1 on, second gear has both shift solenoids off, 3rd gear has shift solenoid 2 on and 4th gear has both ss1 and ss2 on. We know that shift solenoid 1 is working because you have first gear and we know that shift solenoid 2 is working because it neutrals out for a shift to 3rd.
Nothing electrical is going to cause a neutral. Neutral means that somethign is being commanded to happen through working electriconics and it's not happening.
So it has to be either mechanical or hydraulic and that means it is the fault of the transmission builder. If it never at any time afer it was rebuilt had a 2-3 shift that is.
If there ever was a 2-3 shift and then the problem happened it may be a broken intermediate stub shaft or the splines are stripped out of where the stub shaft splines to either the forward or direct clutch drums. The builder could have done everything right and one of those happened after he did his job. Breakage after the build is the only way that this can't be the problem of the builder.
Missing a broken stub shaft or drum with stripped splines while rebuilding one is highly unlikely. So, unless the guy is just flat blind or stupid, we can pretty much eliminate those things.
If a 2-3 shift never happened after the rebuild at all then it can be a problem in the valve body or a problem with any of the seals relating to direct clutch operation. It can also be a problem in the case where you are losing pressure when it calls for a 2-3 shift, but that isn't likely unless it's a BIG leak.
An air test would have shown a leak in the case or any of the seals. If the builder actually did properly air test it and knew what he was doing then he definitely would have found any problem there.
So, assuming that he did air test it and there was no problem found, that is going to leave one of the possible mechanical issues or a messed up valve body. Swapping in a known good valve body would eliminate that problem and may be worth a try if all else fails.
If they continue to try and claim it's electrical then ask them to explain to you how you get a neutral through an electrical issue. I woudl laove to hear that one. LOL
Good luck with it.
Darrin
I have to agree. Even if you disconnect all the electronics you get a solid reverse and 2nd. MLPS adjustment or failure is the biggest cause of goofy shift errors on these when it comes to electronics. I usually only see that problem on the early ones. I have seen late ones fail but not often.
Alan
Alan
Yeah, there is another thread on here with a guy having a problem that sounds like a bad MLPS. But considering the year it isn't as likely. When they switched to the newer MLPS in 96 that seemed to cure a lot of those types of issues. It isn't the first thing you go to anymore like it used to be.
Darrin
Darrin
Last edited by Darrin Burch; Aug 25, 2008 at 07:36 AM. Reason: early morning cobwebs
From what you are saying, the truck is obviously commanding 3rd gear and the transmission is not making that shift. That is the problem.
The way that it isn't making the shift definitely eliminates an electrical issue. If it were an electrical issue it wouldn't neutral out because the shift solenoid wouldn't energize and the transmission would stay in 2nd gear. The fact that it does neutral eliminates electrical. First gear has shift solenoid 1 on, second gear has both shift solenoids off, 3rd gear has shift solenoid 2 on and 4th gear has both ss1 and ss2 on. We know that shift solenoid 1 is working because you have first gear and we know that shift solenoid 2 is working because it neutrals out for a shift to 3rd.
Nothing electrical is going to cause a neutral. Neutral means that somethign is being commanded to happen through working electriconics and it's not happening.
So it has to be either mechanical or hydraulic and that means it is the fault of the transmission builder. If it never at any time afer it was rebuilt had a 2-3 shift that is.
Missing a broken stub shaft or drum with stripped splines while rebuilding one is highly unlikely. So, unless the guy is just flat blind or stupid, we can pretty much eliminate those things.
If a 2-3 shift never happened after the rebuild at all then it can be a problem in the valve body or a problem with any of the seals relating to direct clutch operation. It can also be a problem in the case where you are losing pressure when it calls for a 2-3 shift, but that isn't likely unless it's a BIG leak.
An air test would have shown a leak in the case or any of the seals. If the builder actually did properly air test it and knew what he was doing then he definitely would have found any problem there.
So, assuming that he did air test it and there was no problem found, that is going to leave one of the possible mechanical issues or a messed up valve body. Swapping in a known good valve body would eliminate that problem and may be worth a try if all else fails.
If they continue to try and claim it's electrical then ask them to explain to you how you get a neutral through an electrical issue. I woudl laove to hear that one. LOL
Good luck with it.
Darrin
So it has to be either mechanical or hydraulic and that means it is the fault of the transmission builder. If it never at any time afer it was rebuilt had a 2-3 shift that is.
Missing a broken stub shaft or drum with stripped splines while rebuilding one is highly unlikely. So, unless the guy is just flat blind or stupid, we can pretty much eliminate those things.
If a 2-3 shift never happened after the rebuild at all then it can be a problem in the valve body or a problem with any of the seals relating to direct clutch operation. It can also be a problem in the case where you are losing pressure when it calls for a 2-3 shift, but that isn't likely unless it's a BIG leak.
An air test would have shown a leak in the case or any of the seals. If the builder actually did properly air test it and knew what he was doing then he definitely would have found any problem there.
So, assuming that he did air test it and there was no problem found, that is going to leave one of the possible mechanical issues or a messed up valve body. Swapping in a known good valve body would eliminate that problem and may be worth a try if all else fails.
If they continue to try and claim it's electrical then ask them to explain to you how you get a neutral through an electrical issue. I woudl laove to hear that one. LOL
Good luck with it.
Darrin
i questioned the valve body, he did not try a different valve body only internal electrical from my original housing.
i questioned a 2-3 accumulator (im not sure but i thought there was one? thought there was 3 accumulators, 1-2 2-3 and R? i dont build these things sorry!) and this is where he said he would need the book to know the answer for sure.
to the best of my knowledge i never got a 2-3 shift.
the part that is gold for me here is 2-3 shift is being commanded, which is SS2 "energizing" as you say it, which ironically was the problem SS in the very beginning. i dont have a code for that anymore, but still no shift.
back to state transmission wanting to see the truck. my problem is i've already sent paperwork off for billing dispute with the middle man.
they are very positive the air check worked and the clutch engaged... but my question is, why wouldnt a trans shop physically drive the truck when they know theres a code for ss2?
They didn't drive the truck for the same reason that they didn't use the proper year case and the same reason that he can't answer your questions without having to look through the book.
Darrin
Darrin
Thats wild on the credit card company thing. Unfortunate.
I am not so much on the idea of giving it back to them if you are going the credit card dispute route. If they can prove that they gave you a working vehicle then you may get screwed into keeping the inferior parts and still having to pay for it.
I don't think it's fair what they did to you, but that's just my opinion. Others may have different opinions and that's their right, but it's up to you what you want or need to do.
Darrin
I am not so much on the idea of giving it back to them if you are going the credit card dispute route. If they can prove that they gave you a working vehicle then you may get screwed into keeping the inferior parts and still having to pay for it.
I don't think it's fair what they did to you, but that's just my opinion. Others may have different opinions and that's their right, but it's up to you what you want or need to do.
Darrin
i thought about that. if they get it to run... hmm
i guess its just gonna sit and collect dust and cob webs for a while longer...
i think after this im changing cards, ive never heard of anyone else waiting that long either.
i guess its just gonna sit and collect dust and cob webs for a while longer...
i think after this im changing cards, ive never heard of anyone else waiting that long either.
Consider making a webpage detailing your problems with the trans company, how they used inferior parts and the like... then take out an ad in your newspaper... something like
State Transmissions
Don't get screwed; Know before you buy:
HTTP://www.HowIGotScrewedByState.com
Then bring in the add and a print out of the website; drop it on their desk... tell them you'll shut it all down after they return you a 97 trans and your cash.
Then go somewhere that knows what the hell they are doing
State Transmissions
Don't get screwed; Know before you buy:
HTTP://www.HowIGotScrewedByState.com
Then bring in the add and a print out of the website; drop it on their desk... tell them you'll shut it all down after they return you a 97 trans and your cash.
Then go somewhere that knows what the hell they are doing
Update!
just seen this tonight when i heard wamu folded LOL
"09/24/2008 Rods C.a.r.s. Kennewick Wa -$2,599.20"
i will be calling to confirm whether this is a final decision or not. this is probably the first time i smiled without seeing ***** since uhm, may? lol
just seen this tonight when i heard wamu folded LOL
"09/24/2008 Rods C.a.r.s. Kennewick Wa -$2,599.20"
i will be calling to confirm whether this is a final decision or not. this is probably the first time i smiled without seeing ***** since uhm, may? lol
i have already gathered an answer from troyer regarding the 70/75 swap. he advised me not to do it because he does not know what issues may crop up. someone had ridiculed him at one point in time in one of my threads for saying this but i still plant my foot firmly with his answer. he is doing the tuning, he does not have the answer as to whether there may be hidden issues i dont see. so i choose not to do the swap, less chances of a hiccup, which i OBVIOUSLY need less of.


