I'm no expert on reading the alignment printout but here's what I get from it:
rear- only change was thrust angle from .12 degree before to .11 degree after
front- toe was in the red (not withing specs) and went from .64 right and .57 left to .08 right and .11 left after alignment. They also slightlly changed camber and caster although they were in normal (green) range before. I guess just slightly off.
Thats all I can get from the computer printout he gave me. Everything is within the "specified range" according to the sheet.

 

Pretty much how mine was.

 

OK. I am done with the drivers side with one exception. The sway bar link. I tried to remove the bottom of the link. No luck. Either I broke it or it is like a ball joint. It just spins and spins without the top part spinning. I just took the top of the link off which I think is easier as there is a place to get a wrench on the link to hold it when it spins. Off to do the passenger side.
... Edit
I finished a few hours ago and am back from the alignment shop. All things considered it was quite easy, even by myself. The lower sway bar nut went back tight once I put the truck on the ground. I would recomend taking the top link nut off. It is much easier all around and it did not get in the way. The lower strut bolt does need to come off for sure no way to get it done without removing it.

 

Hey All! I installed my AS 3" kit on a few days ago and have some quick tips for anyone that's considering diving into this. First, it is MUCH easier to remove the upper nut on the sway bar because the shaft has a hex section to put a wrench on and keep it from spinning. I did this on both sides and it doesn't get in the way at all. Second, I am opposed to buying tools I'm only gonna use on one job unless it's absolutely necessary so I didn't like the idea of needing a 30mm socket. A 10" or 12" crescent wrench fits into the opening nicely so I just stuck my 12" in there and tightened it onto the lower strut bolt nut. Then just use the 1-1/16" wrench on the bolt head and put some muscle into it. I had no problem breaking them both loose or reinstalling them with this method and didn't need a breaker bar. Third, if you don't have a puller or just refuse to go to the parts store to rent one, use a 6" c-clamp (who doesn't have a c-clamp?) to pop the upper ball joint loose- much better than whacking suspension components with a hammer! I also used it to press the stud back into the hole so the ball joint wouldn't spin while I tightened the nut back up. Hope this helps a little- happy wrenching!

 

just out of curiosity, did your CV axle have a negative angle before the 2.5" level kit? I have seen 2" level kits on trucks that after install the CV axle was at much much more of an angle... i don't get it. I love your truck man, it looks awesome, and looks like it would perform excellent offroad, especially w/ those good angles your's has

 

Where is the best place to get one of these kits from?

 

Autospring. Google them. Go to their site and you should be able to find the link to their ebay store.

 

uh, wait a sec, I see you have a '98 F150.... I don't think autospring makes torsion keys, which is what you would need... I would recommend talking to wandell and asking him about twisting the torsion bars, and how to do it... its definitely better than a torsion key, and all you have to do is get under your truck, do it, and then get it alighned, as opposed to spending 100 bucks on a kit that does the same thing to your suspension.

 

so pretty much just crank the torsion bars instead of spending the extra cash? Would this cause me any problems later on? im just curious

See i needed new tires and have been puttin it off then when i got back to my truck after work today i had a flat it was the last straw so i went and ordered new BFG mud KM2's i am pretty sure i am going to need some lift in the front cause i ordered 315 75 16's they said i would be fine in the rear but need some lift up front. so if i can just get them to crank the bars that would be great. thanks for yall's help

 

yeah, I think you will be fine w/ the front cranked up some... The thing about the torsion bars is this: Cranking the torsion bars or putting the torsion key on your truck (from what I have learned - I haven't actually seen it, which is why I suggest talking to Wandell) does the exact same thing to your suspension. Both will put your CV axles at an angle, and will put stress on your front suspension, but most guys agree it's worth it for the extra height and clearance... With that said, I wouldn't recommend buying the torsion key, but I would recommend cranking the torsion bars up. Hope this helps!

 

Oh, and here ya go, this is a link to another thread that will tell you how to do it: https://www.f150online.com/forums/su...sion-bars.html

 

thanks for the info wingman
i wander if i could do both crank the bars and use the keys.

 

Great write-up. It has effectively motivated me to give this a whirl.

One question, first. I'm about due for new tires, so the AS will be going on right around the same time as a new set of tires. I understand an alignment is needed after the AS goes on, but is it better to do the alignment before or after the new tires are put on (assuming it all happens at the same time). It seems like from reading the posts in this discussion that people are aligning before the new tires. Does it matter?

 

thanks so much for this. I just ordered the AS level kit and I cant wait to throw it on the truck.

 

No problem

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To answer cstanek's question: I think if you do them at the same time, you should put the AS on, then the tires, then do the alignment, to make sure everything is right on.