I just wanted to stop by again. I don't find myself on here much, but I am happy to see the write-up is still helping people.
I am doing a couple leveling kit installs (on various makes and models) a weekend using basically the same methods as documented at the start of this thread.

If you have any issues or questions you have for me directly, please feel free to email me directly at hoelzeloffroad@yahoo dot com.

Even if I'm not doing the install for you, I am still happy to help where I can.

As an additional note:
I have installed more brands of leveling kits than I can presently recall, and I have not run in to one so far that has not been everything it should be. Off the top of my head, I have installed Auto Spring, Rough Country, Pro Comp, CCM Offroad, Hell Bent Steel, Fat Bob's Garage, and Ready Lift leveling kits. Each one has been of great quality and I would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone.
In all honesty, pick the size you are looking for and then find the absolute cheapest 'shipped' price you can, and get that kit. The spacers will do the rest.

 

Another note:

When trying to decide which size kit is best for you, either front only or front and rear, park your truck in the most level place you can find. It would be ideal to have no trailer hooked up, an empty bed, and a full tank of gas.

Measure the rear of the truck from the ground to the central point at the top of fender opening (or from the middle of the wheel up). Compare that measurement to the front, using the same measurement technique.

That is going to tell you what it will take for your truck to sit level. If you want to add height to the rear as well as the front, take that into consideration when picking your front spacer.

No two trucks are alike enough for someone else to tell you what size spacer YOU need. I've done them all from regular cab 2wd to reg cab FX4; 2wd crew cab/4wd crew cab; 2/4wd extended cabs.....they are all different and will require different modifications.

When selecting a rear lift, if you want height and increase payload, go with an add-a-leaf. If you want factory ride and no need for added payload, go for the lift block.
The lift block will ride like stock and be an exact amount of lift.
An add-a-leaf will ride a little more still and will not have an exact amount of lift (however, will generally be close to advertised height).

 

just finished doing my 2.5" auto spring front level... looks sweet this thread deffinately helped he understand what needed to be done.. thanks for the help! the upper ball joint is deffinately the hardest part of the take apart & install... i had to take my outer tie rod ends off to fit the strut back into it's housing

 

Foxracer, Can you post some pics of your ride? I have the same truck and want to level it out also. I don't see many 6.5' box FX4's so I'm curious to see one that is leveled.

Thanks, Todd

 

need to get better pictures.. my bumper is all messed up i hit a deer & the truck is really dirty & i have new rims so the new rims fill up the wheel well better... il take some tomorrow & post them here

 

My two most recent...

2006



2011 (2009-2011 are a little different, but still super easy)

 

I'm having trouble with the ball joint bolt. I believe I have it knocked loose but when I try taking the nut off the bolt that goes up through to the ball joint just spins and I've even tried vice grips on it. Any suggestions?

 

You are in a bind here, but you should be able to get through it.

The problem is that there is red locktite in the threads of that nut. If the nut is not backed off all the way before you break the ball joint stud loose, it's not going to come off easy.

The design is weak in that Ford did not use a balljoint stud style that either has a 'hex' shaped indent in the very tip of the stud (like Toyota does), or a squared off tip (like Dodge does). That would allow a second tool to be used to hold the stud from spinning while you tighten or untighten the nut with a wrench.

^ That is obviously neither here nor there, so I'll move on to your situation.
The best thing that is going to help you here is a torch. I just use a small propane/butane torch. You will need to heat that nut up to melt the locktite. Be sure to have your tools ready. After heating it for some time, grab the top (tapered) part of the stud with the vice grips and start backing the nut off with the wrench. You will want to move fast as you don't want the locktite to harden again.
You may have to repeat the process a couple of times before getting that nut off.
Once it's off, I would suggest you clean the threads on the inside of the nut to remove the locktite.

The absolute worst case scenerio is that you would have to cut the ball joint stud and either have that ball joint replaced, or replace the whole control arm with a new ball joint.
I have been in your situation before and the heat has always worked.

 

Thanks the torch would perfectly came right off. I have an 06 4x4 super crew and I just got the 2" AS on the drivers side and have yet to do the passenger side. Everything is tightened up and the upper control arm comes down and rubs the metal coil on the strut. Will this go away once I have the tire and have the truck back on the ground?

 

There will be space between them when the truck is back on the ground....especially with only a 2" spacer.

I'm glad you got going with it. When doing the passenger side, just remember to back the nut off all the way BEFORE you break the ball joint loose. Once it is free, thread it back on a couple turns just to keep things from flying when you do break it loose.

 

I did this 2007 FX2 2wd this afternoon. It got the AutoSpring 3" front spacers and 1.5" rear add-a-leafs.

This is a case where the customer wanted the truck higher (obviously), but not necessarily level. He hauls feed out on the family ranch and wanted the added height to the rear as well as the added weight capacity.

 

Thanks txst appreciate the help and advice. This is the first thing I've ever done on my own and your advice definitely helps.

 

No problem. I am happy to help where/when I can.

Working on that 07, I realized that the tip of the ball joint studs is squared off. Be sure you have a tight grip on it when using it because it will round off easily.

 

I was planning on doing a 2.5" w/AAL but now I'm not so sure. I definitely don't want that much rake. Would going with blocks be better?

 

That add-a-leaf is advertised as 1.5"-2" of lift. I didn't take any before pics, but it definitely raised it a good amount. It will settle though after some miles and especially after a couple hauls of feed and supplies that the truck sees.

If you don't need the added weight/carrying capacity, go with the lift block. The add-a-leaf is really only needed if you haul or tow a lot and need the added 950lbs of capacity.
Lift blocks will ride just like stock. Leafs can be slightly more stiff...at least until they break-in.

That truck would sit level with a 1" rear block....if I had to guess.