yea m you should cover up as many holes as you can. It will improve mid-bass response drastically. I just did 1 single layer across the entire door using dynamat extreme inside and outside the door. I may do a second layer of that damplifer though since a few of you guys seem to like it.

 

eventually, yes. For right now i just want to get everything in and running though. My fabrication skills arent super yet, so i'll need to practice a bit first. I covered as many holes as possible with dampener outside of the ones needed to get the panels back on. If i covered that one huge one with some plexi it would be completely sealed, which would be sweet.

Not sure exactly, but the Raamat is about half as much as the damplifier pro and you could easily put on 2 layers on Raamat instead of 1 layer of D-pro and get the same result. Its more flexible, easier to get to the hard-t-reach spots. D-pro is thicker though. They are both great choices.

 

Took off the backseat and did the backwall with Raamat today.

I followed these directions and got the seat popped off on my second try, only took about 20 minutes of effort for me:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...2008_F150.html

I want to delete one of the big gaps that is intended for air pressure when closing the doors (there are 2 of them). I want to fully seal the passenger side gap/hole, since the exhaust is right under it. I feel this will eliminate a lot of road and exhaust noise. Problem is that it is a clip on device, and unclipped it pops out in between the cab and bed, and i dont know if there is enough room to actually pull it out in 1 piece. Has anyone done this? Or should i just take a saw to it and destroy it in an attempt to remove it??

No pictures today since i left my camera in Chico last weekend...but i'll get some up when i can.

On a separate note, i ordered the kicker pkd1 1/0 wiring kit off ebay 2.5 weeks ago...the seller never told me it wasnt in stock...so i emailed him and he says it will ship out soon....this has been holding up my entire install since i cannot put the amps in without it. SUCKS.

One last thing: what store would carry wire loom for 1/0 wire? I went to ACE and Home Depot neither store had it. I might tackle the Big 3 tomorrow using my Knu 1/0 wires.

 

sweet if you can get some pics up of the big three would be cool. im waiting for my wire and fuses should be in sometime this week. i had one question thoght i just need to fuse the wire going to the alternator right? and of course my amp???thanks

 

You have to break a little of the cab vent off to make it fit between the bed/cab to get it out.
Here is a pic of mine, I took pliers and just busted off the little 'cups' at the bottom.....



I would think any automotive store (Napa, CarQuest, oReilys, etc) would have wire loom that will work for 1/0...

 

Yes put your fuse on the wire from Alt to the battery pos. Make sure the fuse is rated at what the WIRE can handle, not the Alternator. Example: the wire im using is KnuKonceptz Klearkable 1/0 which is rated at 250A, and i think the Ford Alternator is rated at 130A? so i got a 250A fuse for it (also from Knu).

And CJ thanks for the picture thats exactly what i needed.

 

Rammat as compared to DX, Damp or DP is like getting me to run 5mi compared to a Triathalon runner. Eventually we both will get to the same point, Ill expend way more energy, time and maybe money (gotta have a drink every 15 minutes...)

Damp pro is worlds better than the Ram, its a bit thicker but less messy. Ive talked to SERIOUS professional installers all over the nation, Rammat is a joke to them. (Sorry MSAll.)

 

why rain on the mans parade low.... geez

 

its fine, im not butthurt. 90% of DIYers use Raamat, its works perfect (especially since this isnt a "SERIOUS professional installation"). D-pro is higher quality no doubt, but the Raamat is easier to work with and with double layers its thicker than the D-pro.

And since i have used both and you havent, i'll tell you this: the only real difference is the thickness. As long as you're not an idiot, the Raamat doesnt get messy.

And believe me, if i had tons of money to spare, i would use pure D-pro. Its great stuff. Better than Raamat? Hells yeah. Worlds better? No chance.

 

If you take those thigns off, what do you put in its place? And do you do both sides or just the passenger side?

 

damn i ordered 300amp fuses and i am using 0 gauge. would it e fine with a 300 amp fuse?

 

Keep in mind that not all 0awg wire is created equal...

 

That was my experience with the eDead v1 and Dynamat X. I did the front doors in Dyn Xtr and the rest of the truck with eDead and I tell you what if I did it again, I would have used all Dynamat Extreme. Yes the eDead was alot easier to work with, but messier. Yes 2 layers of eDead was as thick as 1 later of Dynamat but the dampening of the Dynamat is 10x better than 2 layers of the eDead product. I am not familiar with Raamat but have heard exactly what you have described with it. I have heard that D pro is pretty close in comparison to Dynamat X but = in price as well.

For anyone else looking to deaden their vehicle, I have used stingers product (road kill/overkill) 1st hand and will compare it to Dyn X as well but a lot cheaper since they are local to me.

Later,
Devildog101

 

Peice of sheetmetal...securely attached and sealed up.
I did both sides; with a big enough substage those vents just flutter and make an anoying **** sounds.
In my reg. cab. I noticed a huge difference in road noise entering the vehicle too...a lot of noise gets in through those vents.

 

those vents are there for a purpose tho.. u might not notice initially, but sometime or another you will. either ur ears will pop when u close the doors, or at even slight altitude changes.. i hate em, but i deal wit em.... jus my .02