Will OBX LT's + ROR = deafness?
Any leaks will forward those DTC's. System really has to be tight. You should never need the Gotts O2 mod IMO; not if the Y is completely tight. One little leak and you'll get those DTC's.
You need to leak test it first to see what needs to be done. Don't forget to test the EGR bung and O2 bungs. You might need Permatex Gold w/copper for thread sealer.
Fun fun fun lol...
I'm not sure how efficient those converters are (?). Seems to me that you should be within factory parameters. There's a pretty wide spread, like 60% below the original set up. Just compare what you had to what you have now for a ballpark.
To explain further, if the system or "Y" is tight, you can get away without running the rear converters, but yea, it has to be tight.
Did you originally have 2 converters or 4 ?
You need to leak test it first to see what needs to be done. Don't forget to test the EGR bung and O2 bungs. You might need Permatex Gold w/copper for thread sealer.
Fun fun fun lol...
I'm not sure how efficient those converters are (?). Seems to me that you should be within factory parameters. There's a pretty wide spread, like 60% below the original set up. Just compare what you had to what you have now for a ballpark.
To explain further, if the system or "Y" is tight, you can get away without running the rear converters, but yea, it has to be tight.
Did you originally have 2 converters or 4 ?
Yea, it can be PITA at first, BUT it can be handled. It's common, nothing wrong with the install, there's always a punch list of some sort afterwords. Leaks first,- where are they lol.
Any leaks will forward those DTC's. System really has to be tight. You should never need the Gotts O2 mod IMO; not if the Y is completely tight. One little leak and you'll get those DTC's.
You need to leak test it first to see what needs to be done. Don't forget to test the EGR bung and O2 bungs. You might need Permatex Gold w/copper for thread sealer.
Fun fun fun lol...
I'm not sure how efficient those converters are (?). Seems to me that you should be within factory parameters. There's a pretty wide spread, like 60% below the original set up. Just compare what you had to what you have now for a ballpark.
To explain further, if the system or "Y" is tight, you can get away without running the rear converters, but yea, it has to be tight.
Did you originally have 2 converters or 4 ?
You need to leak test it first to see what needs to be done. Don't forget to test the EGR bung and O2 bungs. You might need Permatex Gold w/copper for thread sealer.
Fun fun fun lol...
I'm not sure how efficient those converters are (?). Seems to me that you should be within factory parameters. There's a pretty wide spread, like 60% below the original set up. Just compare what you had to what you have now for a ballpark.
To explain further, if the system or "Y" is tight, you can get away without running the rear converters, but yea, it has to be tight.
Did you originally have 2 converters or 4 ?
The OBX cats are pretty small. Nothing like the size of the stock ones.
I'll have to leak test everything...
Magnaflow 12278 is looking good, may quiet things up more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...em=#vi-content
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