For the leak you can try loosening and re-torquing. Special if there's stress on the Y and if it's leaking at the head. Stress would be a make fit situation, I think you know lol. Headers should be torqued from the center out, but you may want to favor rear IF that is where it's leaking.

I'd use a shop vac or compressed air and charge the system cold thru the tail pipe. 15 lbs is all you need. A squirt bottle w/part dish soap will reveal any and all leaks. Finding leaks while running and hot isn't the way lol.

 

Thanks for the leak test tip.

 

No problem. Threads might have got a little stripped at that location as well. For some reason mine did and at that same spot. It was because I didn't run the new header bolts in about 4 threads prior to installing. Close quarters header bolts don't start easy all the time. It can be easy to screw the head threads up if there not prepped to receive the new bolts first. I just had to drill and tap the bottom back one, drivers side. I new it was stripping tho, -so I repaired it before continuing.

I bet yours isn't even leaking there tho. Just have a feeling it's leaking a little further down.

 

That's what I'm hoping for. I know the header on the driver's side is tight and the bolts went in almost all the way in with just my fingers. I jumped on the driver's side while Patrick wrestled with the hard side when it started getting late. I know the clamps are bad and may be leaking and I think the collector may need to be re-torqued. I'll fool with it tomorrow.

 

Yea, muffler clamps are good back by the muffler, but still, they never seem to seal 100%. The bad thing about band clamps is that they stretch and provide a fairly good seal, -first time around anyway lol. If you try using the same clamp twice, the out come isn't as good.

I've always thought (or hoped) that someday someone would come up with a heavier clamp that's worth a snot, but haven't seen any yet. It's been awhile though, maybe someone offers a better product by now. (?) Other than that, weld where you can lol.

 

Which obx kit you go with?

 

Full kit with cats, not resonators.

 

Where did you buy it from

 

SParktec motorsports. Email them at info@sparktecmotorsports.com and tell them what you have and they'll quote you a price. They don't show the catted kit on their website but still sell it.

 

Can you pm me with a price also are you going to use the ss mirrors that i sold you?

 

Also, the OBX uses donuts right, flange/bolt and at the collectors. I recall Kitch having a PITA problem with those. I haven't messed with that kind personally, just weld on or clamps for 3" collectors. Klitch had to purchase a different set of donuts I believe. The problem he ran into is in this forum somewhere.

 

Sure PM coming up.

 

Well.....

Two DTC's popped on me today on a test drive after I went under the truck and tightened everything back up except the manifolds themselves. The leak is still there and the codes are P0420 and P0430. I guess I'll have the rear o2's turned off in my tunes or I'll have to do the Gotts o2 mod. I'll be doing an exhaust leak test after the truck cools back down.

 

Or try to re-do the manifolds starting with the driver's side. :o

 

The donuts are not very good but I redid the collectors so I know that's not the problem, or I'll know after I do the leak test. :o

This mod is going to take forever to get right.