Reply to my own post. I called Arc and the 5150 is headed back to them on Monday. It has a rear channel problem that needs to be fixed and they are going to mod the sub channel for full range output.

Now, at what point do I need to be concerned about the stock electrical system keeping up? Basically, with the 2500 running 500 watts or so, I will be looking in the 1,100 total watts range but, if I switch it to run at 1,100 watts, then my total power draw is going to go to around 1,600. I have never run that much power before.

 

Have you done a big 3? I would at least do that w/ 1/0 cable. I think at 1600 you'll be ok...not positive though. I know I have some dimming, but it doesn't get progressively worse as the system hits. I'm thinking about adding a batcap 800 (at least looking into it). It's pretty much a real small battery that I can probably fit behind the seat. If that doesn't work...then it will have to be a HO alternator which I really don't want to do.

About squeezing the amps behind the seat. I got 2 9.0 and a 350.2 back there. I had to cut the headrest post, move the power window motor, and the keyless entry box, but I got them back there.

 

Haha, yes I have done that. Turns out my internet is to slow and there are to many people for me to pull that off. I love it when im scrolling through the main forum page and my name shows up a bunch. Gets me all excited and Im like WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO THATS ME, THATS ME!!!

You guys are just mad because you cant give kick a$$ advice like that. Man it really makes me feel good to give out proper, useful advice like that.





I IS DUH LEADUH WOOP WOOP


But seriously Dcon. We have a problem-Goats are taking over our population and eating our lawns. You, yes YOU, have the power to help, and all we need from you is to call our Goatbusters hotline and make a small donation of .03 pesos. Youll be glad you did. So, who ya gonna call?? Thats right, Goatbusters.

*operators are standing by


Ok ok ok, so, your going to run the center channel off the 5th channel, bridge the other two and run them to the rear, stick the 2100 on the fronts, and then put the 2500 on the sub?? Thats awsome Arc is making the sub channel full range too.



Oh yeah......



me

 

Oh yeah, BRY, do you know what size your alternator is? I have a 130 amp one and Im hoping it will handle 1500 watts with no problems.

 

I wouldn't worry about the center as long as you have the adjustability for in ie:amp gain, processor cent volume control. I would much rather have to turn down a channel than overdrive it to keep up. I would recomend a batcap over any mix of stiffening caps, I have had great success with them.

 

Bart I want to be on the goatbusters team but only if you got one of those cool sirens on the car

 

So, you used/are using a batcap? Which one are you using? I was thinking about the batcap 800 (the one like a small battery). I think I can get it to fit behind my seat. There's no way I can get a yellow top back there. Do you think that would be good for my set-up? Or should I just get the 300 or 400?
Also, how do you have it hooked up? Do you have it grounded to your battery or to the chasis? That's another reason I haven't got one yet...they recommend to run the negative to the battery. I'm kinda lazy about running another 1/0 cable through my firewall.

Bart - yeah, I got the 130 amp alt.

 

Awww heck, we dont just have the siren, we have the whole CAR..


*DRUMROLL*>>>>>>>>>>!!!!!!!!!!!>................

 

Now thats funny I don't care who you are.

 

Brypink I would suggest the model 400. The 800 is an actual battery and, unless you used an isolator, would react to your primary battery unless you used one or more of the 800's for that as well. The 400 is usually all that is needed for regular music playing.

 

Cool, thanks. Yeah, I would ran an isolater if I went with the 800, but if you think the 400 is good enough...I'll give it a shot.

Another question...should I ground it to the chasis or run another cable to the battery? Their website say "better" to run it to the battery and "good" grounding to the chasis. I guess I know the answer, but does it really matter that much?

 

Telling you to run copper back to the battery is just to cover situations where there is a ground differential between the amp placement and the battery caused by poor contact between body panels etc. The 800 is very useful for some situations, the blue mazda speed in my galleries (single sub w/2 rockford amps) is running 2 800 in the stock battery tray in parrallel giving it 1600 cca w/ more amphour capacity, and because of the lower internal resistance it is not as large a load on the alternator as the stock battery was. There is also a 400 in back to help support the amplifiers with the power surges they can create. The car still has the stock alternator running the 2 1000 watt rockfords and a jl 300/4 for the fronts, but because of the system design we have no significant power loss to the car. For your setup I would start with the 400 at the amps with a local ground, and doing the big three (which I'm sure you already have).

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll try the 400 at the amp w/ the local ground. BTW, yes I have a big 3.

 

Sorry about not posting. I still have no internet at home. Hopefully this week.

I am going to plead ignorance on this one but, what does the Big 3 involve? I have seen Bryan's pics but, really have no idea what all it involves. Upgrading stock electrical systems is something I have never had to do.

 

Also, Bartak, once I get the 5150 back, I will be running it in 3 channel mode with 150 x 2 to the fronts and 110 to the center, the 2100 will run 100 x 2 to the rears and the 2500 around 525 to the sub at 2 ohm.

Bryan, I do not think I can get all 3 amps back there. I am hoping to get the 2 big amps back there and put the 2100 under the seat. Do you have any pics of your two 9.0 amps back there with the 350.2?