Official what did you do to your truck today thread.
Darren, I don't quite understand why you would need an alignment after replacing the iwe's? Even if you pop the upper ball joint off the steering knuckle, it shouldn't need one.
I honestly cringed with the last picture you posted with the road salt, as well as yours nfld. I am glad my area doesn't really use salt.
I honestly cringed with the last picture you posted with the road salt, as well as yours nfld. I am glad my area doesn't really use salt.
I just don't want to take any chances with odd wear with these tires.
Tierods will cause alignment issues, mainly toe-in/out. Ball joints will affect your caster/camber. Ultimately, if you remove the upper ballpoint/a-arm and reinstall, it shouldn't have any affect on your alignment. I replaced my upper a-arms and lower ball joints and installed my level. Had the truck aligned, and everything was good to go without them doing anything to the truck. Mainly because the adjustment is in the lower a-arm.
But if you are waiting to do the iwe's before your alignment it never hurts. It never hurts to have peace of mind on the repairs.
But if you are waiting to do the iwe's before your alignment it never hurts. It never hurts to have peace of mind on the repairs.
Not just yet, got an email from Amazon that they shipped out as of 28 Mar, their estimated delivery date is Monday, I'll keep y'all apprised. I'll replace the coil packs and if it still misfires, I'll get new plugs as soon as I can afford 'em.
Finally put my stock 22"s back on. Couldn't wait after this long winter we had in mass.
Found out I need a tie rod end on passenger side.
Next up is a long list of parts then a detail and yes pics to follow!!
Found out I need a tie rod end on passenger side.
Next up is a long list of parts then a detail and yes pics to follow!!
Cleaned my cloth seats with the bissel little green deep cleaner. They weren't stained, but the dirty water in the collection tank was the color of coffee! Definitely lightened the seats up a bit. I also don't have that rip in the side of the drivers seat that it seems most other trucks have. Maybe it's the way I get in and out of the truck and never slide on the edge of the seat. The cloth is original.
Cleaned my cloth seats with the bissel little green deep cleaner. They weren't stained, but the dirty water in the collection tank was the color of coffee! Definitely lightened the seats up a bit. I also don't have that rip in the side of the drivers seat that it seems most other trucks have. Maybe it's the way I get in and out of the truck and never slide on the edge of the seat. The cloth is original.


I have that rip haha
Got the new coil packs from Amazon in today's mail, gonna get 'em on this weekend as well as email my brother after I send this, more to come.
I got the other tie rod end in tonight and re-assembled. Torqued everything to spec, and did my 'YouTube how-to viewer certified tech' alignment job to get the toe more leveled until I get it aligned properly soon.
Took it for a spin, nice and tight now, however I still have a clump sound on and off. 4wd still causes the snapping sound that I reported in this thread here. So when I parked it I remembered to jack the front up and try to spin the wheels to see if the CVs are locked or not while engines running. My results, the drivers side spins free without the CV spinning. The passenger side however spins with the wheel. So the front right actuator is bad I presume. So my snapping sound is because it is always in 3x4 instead of 2x4.
Going to try a vacuum line test and see if there is IWE solenoid error, and give the vac lines a good look over. Perhaps I pinched a line when I did the brake lines in 2013, but I doubt it. But anyways since i'll need another alignment after changing an actuator i'll save my $70 at the moment and replace both front actuators to avoid any BS in the future with the drivers side. Since my IWE is the updated model i'd prefer not to change that but might even do that for peace at mind.
At this rate, looks like the truck is gonna stay in my ownership for a couple more years since I have sunk the time & money into these repairs.
Took it for a spin, nice and tight now, however I still have a clump sound on and off. 4wd still causes the snapping sound that I reported in this thread here. So when I parked it I remembered to jack the front up and try to spin the wheels to see if the CVs are locked or not while engines running. My results, the drivers side spins free without the CV spinning. The passenger side however spins with the wheel. So the front right actuator is bad I presume. So my snapping sound is because it is always in 3x4 instead of 2x4.
Going to try a vacuum line test and see if there is IWE solenoid error, and give the vac lines a good look over. Perhaps I pinched a line when I did the brake lines in 2013, but I doubt it. But anyways since i'll need another alignment after changing an actuator i'll save my $70 at the moment and replace both front actuators to avoid any BS in the future with the drivers side. Since my IWE is the updated model i'd prefer not to change that but might even do that for peace at mind.
At this rate, looks like the truck is gonna stay in my ownership for a couple more years since I have sunk the time & money into these repairs.
Sent from my XT1080 using IB AutoGroup
Last edited by VTX1800N1; Mar 31, 2015 at 07:27 AM.
Thanks. It needs one right now since I did the tie rods. I aligned it myself for now, but I plan to have it done at the shop. Before any of that I do believe I will change out IWEs and possibly the solenoid if it's giving vacuum issues.
2008_xl I am jealous, not only for your super clean interior, but also that very nice black shifter. That's the biggest thing I miss about my 2000. Really wish they had a manual option with the v8 in these years.
I haven't done a whole lot with the truck lately. Picked up an air damn off sterlgreyfx4's 2011.

I know it's function is essentially useless being on a levelled truck. But I do like how it's hiding the front suspension bits.

I also rewired the mirrors. So no more blinking mirror heat light while signalling. Pretty straight forward once I figured out which pins to swap. If anyone needs help, shoot me a pm.
I haven't done a whole lot with the truck lately. Picked up an air damn off sterlgreyfx4's 2011.

I know it's function is essentially useless being on a levelled truck. But I do like how it's hiding the front suspension bits.

I also rewired the mirrors. So no more blinking mirror heat light while signalling. Pretty straight forward once I figured out which pins to swap. If anyone needs help, shoot me a pm.
Thanks for the compliments, guys! I've also heard the cloth stains easily. But to be honest, I think it's more so the premium two tone xlt and up. My friend has that in his truck and it stains if you look at it.
This solid color cloth I have doesn't stain at all. You could have an oil smudge and it'll come out easily.
Baticus, one day I'll look back and miss this too. I plan on keeping it a little longer though. It's realy a shame they did away with manual transmissions in full sized trucks.
This solid color cloth I have doesn't stain at all. You could have an oil smudge and it'll come out easily.
Baticus, one day I'll look back and miss this too. I plan on keeping it a little longer though. It's realy a shame they did away with manual transmissions in full sized trucks.









