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Official what did you do to your truck today thread.

Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:26 PM
  #3511  
EveBlack's Avatar
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Originally Posted by 2008_XL
Is that one gray? Or is it the black textured kind that comes on the xl? If the latter, unfortunately you can't paint it to match. Though, at least that gap is filled!

Can you post a pic of it during the day time?
Here's the before....this is how I bought her almost a month ago....





Here you go! Not perfect but definitely better than before!!! Not sure if I want it painted, it's got a better look like it is...but who knows!

 

Last edited by EveBlack; Mar 18, 2015 at 07:30 PM. Reason: Adding info
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:32 PM
  #3512  
2008_XL's Avatar
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by EveBlack
Here's the before....this is how I bought her almost a month ago....





Here you go! Not perfect but definitely better than before!!! Not sure if I want it painted, it's got a better look like it is...but who knows!

It does look better than before. But what I meant, since it's the black textured type, it's not meant to be painted. The ones that are color matched for the trucks are smooth and come primed. Even if you smoothed it, I dunno that paint would stick. But hey, it's black anyway, so it's all good.

Is the bumper bent downward?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:44 PM
  #3513  
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
No it's not, I checked when I had it off. I looks likes it's not the right one to me. It's flush on the drivers side but lacking almost 3" from the edge of the cap on the passenger side. Definitely something not right. I'm going to tackle it this weekend sometime but I'll probably end up replacing the bumper.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:51 PM
  #3514  
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by EveBlack
No it's not, I checked when I had it off. I looks likes it's not the right one to me. It's flush on the drivers side but lacking almost 3" from the edge of the cap on the passenger side. Definitely something not right. I'm going to tackle it this weekend sometime but I'll probably end up replacing the bumper.
With the rectangular fogs, it's definitely an 04-05 bumper, so it's the right one for the truck. You sure the brackets aren't bent or something? Something is way off cause the upper bumper and the bumper should be flush. Hope you get it sorted out and let us know what the problem is.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:50 PM
  #3515  
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From: League City, Texas
Swapped in LED 3157s to the rear.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:53 PM
  #3516  
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by dbhost
Swapped in LED 3157s to the rear.
Did you need to install a new flasher under the dash so it doesn't think you have a burned out bulb? Or did it just plug and play and work as a standard bulb? I've changed a few over to leds, but haven't done the rear turn signal / brake lights due to this.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 10:24 AM
  #3517  
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Originally Posted by 2008_XL
With the rectangular fogs, it's definitely an 04-05 bumper, so it's the right one for the truck. You sure the brackets aren't bent or something? Something is way off cause the upper bumper and the bumper should be flush. Hope you get it sorted out and let us know what the problem is.
Yea, I looked at it and compared it to another bumper and I agree. When i looked at it last night and there's not any signs of bending in the metal but it's still not sitting right. There's rubbing on the passenger side and none on the drivers side. See below. I'll probably end up doing a swap. The guy at the parts place said the truck has had a major body lift....So, looks like I'll be taking it all apart to look at it this weekend.

Driver's side....



Passenger side....



With a swap trying to decide what direction to go with the bumper. I do like the stock bumper. I will be adding a Westin bull bar so....
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 10:39 AM
  #3518  
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by EveBlack
Yea, I looked at it and compared it to another bumper and I agree. When i looked at it last night and there's not any signs of bending in the metal but it's still not sitting right. There's rubbing on the passenger side and none on the drivers side. See below. I'll probably end up doing a swap. The guy at the parts place said the truck has had a major body lift....So, looks like I'll be taking it all apart to look at it this weekend.

Driver's side....



Passenger side....



With a swap trying to decide what direction to go with the bumper. I do like the stock bumper. I will be adding a Westin bull bar so....
I agree, I don't think the actual bumper is bent, but I think either the bumpers mounting hardware or your frame is bent. It's sitting 2-3 inches lower than it should. The upper bumper also looks like it's sitting strange. There's a pretty decent gap between it and the grille. Honestly, just trying to help you get the front end back to normal. It's possible your upper bumper pad was for an 06-08 and not an 04-05? The front ends of these trucks changed for 2006. A lot of the parts are specific to either the first part of the generation or to the latter part of the generation.

Does the truck have fog lights? I see openings, but not see if they're missing or the bumper isn't original.

Hers a pic of the front of my truck, for reference so you can see how things are positioned.
Official what did you do to your truck today thread.-6tjlaap.jpg
 

Last edited by 2008_XL; Mar 19, 2015 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:38 PM
  #3519  
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I changed my turn signal bulb, NOW MY TRUCK DOESN'T RUN!

Pretty sure, they're unrelated though. Long story short, left hand turn signal started doing flast blink. I pulled over and checked, rear drivers side bulb was not blinking. Stopped on way to work, bought 2 pack of 4057LL bulbs.
Once home from work, grabbed wrench and socket unscrewed and popped out taillight. Removed old bulb, put in new bulb, turned key to ON and tested turn signal. Still fast blink and still no blinking from rear of truck. The mirror and front signals still work. So I fiddled around with it for a couple minutes, removed it, dielectric greased it up, took a good look at the connections, everything appears fine. All this while my key is "on" and my radio is playing my favorite rock station. It didn't even get through 1 song and I put it all back together and turned the key off.
Came out 10 minutes later to go out to dinner and it tried to start for about 1/2 a second, then everything dims and I get that familiar click, click, click of a DEAD BATTERY.
So tonight I'll be stopping on my way home from work to pick up a new battery. On a side note I found it interesting that the bulb that came out was a single filament light with only 2 wires, where the 4057 is a dual filament bulb with 4 wires. Probably one of those "lets save money on manufacturing" changes.
I'm reading now on what the turn signal failure could be. So far I've read about a mini fuse under the steering wheel and relay also under the steering wheel. The last one I've read about is a possible wire connection problem under the truck, but it wasn't very specific.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 07:11 PM
  #3520  
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From: Mansfield, P.A.
Originally Posted by slo5oh
I changed my turn signal bulb, NOW MY TRUCK DOESN'T RUN!

Pretty sure, they're unrelated though. Long story short, left hand turn signal started doing flast blink. I pulled over and checked, rear drivers side bulb was not blinking. Stopped on way to work, bought 2 pack of 4057LL bulbs.
Once home from work, grabbed wrench and socket unscrewed and popped out taillight. Removed old bulb, put in new bulb, turned key to ON and tested turn signal. Still fast blink and still no blinking from rear of truck. The mirror and front signals still work. So I fiddled around with it for a couple minutes, removed it, dielectric greased it up, took a good look at the connections, everything appears fine. All this while my key is "on" and my radio is playing my favorite rock station. It didn't even get through 1 song and I put it all back together and turned the key off.
Came out 10 minutes later to go out to dinner and it tried to start for about 1/2 a second, then everything dims and I get that familiar click, click, click of a DEAD BATTERY.
So tonight I'll be stopping on my way home from work to pick up a new battery. On a side note I found it interesting that the bulb that came out was a single filament light with only 2 wires, where the 4057 is a dual filament bulb with 4 wires. Probably one of those "lets save money on manufacturing" changes.
I'm reading now on what the turn signal failure could be. So far I've read about a mini fuse under the steering wheel and relay also under the steering wheel. The last one I've read about is a possible wire connection problem under the truck, but it wasn't very specific.
I am confused as to where did you get bulb #4057 from? These trucks from 1997 - 2008 ran #3157 in the brake light portion, and #3156 in the reverse light portion.

If you do not have an owners manual, refer to Sylvania for a bulb part # reference guide.
http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/applic...s/lrgmain.aspx


EDIT:

I see that Sylvania themselves have #4057 listed as the brake light bulb. This is weird, I'm pretty sure it is #3157 factory.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:11 PM
  #3521  
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
I am confused as to where did you get bulb #4057 from? These trucks from 1997 - 2008 ran #3157 in the brake light portion, and #3156 in the reverse light portion.

If you do not have an owners manual, refer to Sylvania for a bulb part # reference guide.
http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/applic...s/lrgmain.aspx


EDIT:

I see that Sylvania themselves have #4057 listed as the brake light bulb. This is weird, I'm pretty sure it is #3157 factory.
I wasn't sure what bulb, so I used the the computer guide in the light bulb section of my local wallyworld. It said 4057. I don't know if they are ALL interchangeable, but I just found a candlepower link that shows a much longer lasting bulb, the Sylvania 4114k that replaces 2458, 3057, 3157, 3357, 3457, 4057, 4157.

The part I find the strangest is that the bulb I pulled out (can't read the numbers on it) was a single filament. Even the socket only has connections in 2 locations not 4, so the dual filament bulb is not necessary.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:31 PM
  #3522  
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From: League City, Texas
Thought I already posted this, but swapped out the OEM taillight bults with Pilot 3157 replacement LEDs, TONS of light output, no way I won't be seen, but not enough resistance in the circuit to keep the flasher happy...

I want to swap out my front turns with amber LEDs as well... Any suggestion for fixing the fast flashing? I do tow so I need to have proper flash rates with and without a trailer...

Checking out the options at www.superbrightleds.com and see they say I need an LED compatible flasher, but their application listing shows about a half dozen different models. Which one do I use on this truck?
 

Last edited by dbhost; Mar 22, 2015 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #3523  
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by dbhost
Thought I already posted this, but swapped out the OEM taillight bults with Pilot 3157 replacement LEDs, TONS of light output, no way I won't be seen, but not enough resistance in the circuit to keep the flasher happy...

I want to swap out my front turns with amber LEDs as well... Any suggestion for fixing the fast flashing? I do tow so I need to have proper flash rates with and without a trailer...
Check out superbrightleds.com look up flashers. You need to change out the one under your dash and that'll fix the fast flashing.

Also, check out their bulbs too. I had those pilot bulbs for a min (got them at Walmart) but the ones this site sells are soooo much brighter so I swapped them out.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #3524  
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From: Mansfield, P.A.
I took my truck in for inspection last Friday as I might have my car sold soon. Trying to get a newer faster DD. Anyway, they failed me for the tire rub, for e-brake apparently not working ( quoted me $158 to fix ), and for a loose drivers side outer, and pass side inner tie rod being shot. Explains the steering wheel vibration I have noticed since fall. Dealer quoted me about $300+ with a discounted alignment for the tie rod end work, only replacing those problem prone tie rods.

So of coarse I am not paying those prices. I just ordered all 4 replacement Moog tie rods from Rock Auto for $122 shipped. Gonna swap them out myself, easy stuff. I found this video of F150 e-brake failure and from what the tech said, this is video is what I need to do to repair it myself within an hours time. And the last fix, is to take the spacers off and go back down to pay for the inspection afterwards, and possibly a full priced alignment after screwing them out of labor fees .

Oh, and here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure.





 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 11:26 PM
  #3525  
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
I took my truck in for inspection last Friday as I might have my car sold soon. Trying to get a newer faster DD. Anyway, they failed me for the tire rub, for e-brake apparently not working ( quoted me $158 to fix ), and for a loose drivers side outer, and pass side inner tie rod being shot. Explains the steering wheel vibration I have noticed since fall. Dealer quoted me about $300+ with a discounted alignment for the tie rod end work, only replacing those problem prone tie rods.

So of coarse I am not paying those prices. I just ordered all 4 replacement Moog tie rods from Rock Auto for $122 shipped. Gonna swap them out myself, easy stuff. I found this video of F150 e-brake failure and from what the tech said, this is video is what I need to do to repair it myself within an hours time. And the last fix, is to take the spacers off and go back down to pay for the inspection afterwards, and possibly a full priced alignment after screwing them out of labor fees .

Oh, and here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure.





Looks great! What size spacers are you running and are they safe to run?
 
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