Everyone has a favorite oil they use in their car or truck, but is it really protecting as well as we think? Oil analysis can tell us exactly what is going on in our engines. By doing an oil analysis you can see each category listed as, wear metals, contaminant metals, additive metals, non-metallic contaminants, and the lube fluid data. Each oil analysis will tell you more than the previous one because of the trend that you will establish.

Taking the oil sample is easy. Contact a laboratory close to you (I use CTC at 1-800-524-7848). Ask them to send you the sample bottle and information to fill our on your truck or car. Depending of the laboratory the samples cost between $7.50 and $20.00 each. The best way is to suck the oil out from the dipstick hole into the bottle with a suction gun. I got my vampire suction gun from EZ VAC Inc. at 1-423-691-7510 for about $20.00. The other way to get a sample is from the drain plug. If you take the sample from the drain plug let some oil out first then fill the bottle. If you take the sample from the oil drain plug, make sure that in the comment box on the sample information that you tell them where the sample was taken from. Always make sure that you get the engine to operating temperature before you take a sample.

When looking at the wear metals category, there are 11 elements that are evaluated. (1) Iron comes from Cylinders, Gears, Rings, Crankshafts, Liners, Bearings, Housings, Rust. (2) Chromium comes from Rings, Roller/Taper Bearing, Rods, Platings. (3) Lead comes from Bearing Overlays, Additive in gear oil and gasoline. (4) Copper comes from Bushings, Bearings, Thrust-Washers, Friction Plates, Oil Cooler, Additive in oil. (5) Tin comes from Bearings, Bushings, Pistons, Platings. (6) Aluminum comes from Pistons, Bearings, Pumps, Blowers, Rotors, Thrust-Washers. (7) Nickel comes from Valves. (8) Silver comes from Bearings, Bushings, Platings. (9) Manganese comes from Trace elements in liners and rings, or is an Additive in gasoline. (10) Titanium is a trace element. (11) Vanadium is a trace element.

There are only 4 contaminant sources listed on the oil analysis. (1) Silicon is sometimes used as an anti-foam agent, but is most likely airborne dirt and abrasives in the oil. Silicon can also be from gasket sealer if work has been done recently. (2) Boron is in most anti-freeze systems and cooking system inhibitors, but is sometimes used in oil as an additive. (3) Sodium is also in most anti-freeze systems but is also used in some oils to fight off acids. (4) Potassium is also in anti-freeze systems but is also used as an additive in gear oil. If your oil analysis shows Boron, Sodium and Potassium then you should have your engine looked at for a coolant leak into your oil.

Additive metals are the good ones. They are part of the formula that the oil companies use to enhance the oils ability to perform. Magnesium, Calcium and Barium are all dispersant/detergent additives. These additives keep the foreign particles from sticking together and keep them in suspension for the filter to take them out of the oil. Zinc, Phosphorus, and Molybdenum are anti-wear additives and will enhance the oils ability to reduce wear. When looking for an oil that you want to go long oil drains you should look for an oil that uses a lot of magnesium and a robust zinc phosphorus additive package.

The non-metallic contaminants are fuel %, which is the unburned fuel in the oil and may signal incomplete combustion. Fuel soot is also a result of incomplete combustion or overextended oil drain intervals. Water is the last non-metallic contaminant and any % is not good and should be looked at.

The lube fluid data will give you the viscosity and the TBN or total base number (an oils ability to fight off acids) The viscosity is usually given at 100 deg C in cSt. The range is as follows. SAE 20 has a range of 5.60 to 9.29. An SAE 30 has a range of 9.30 to 12.49. An SAE 40 has a range of 12.50 to 16.29 and an SAE 50 has a range of 16.30 to 21.89. When looking at the oil analysis and if you are using a 15w-40-grade oil the analysis should say it’s in the range of a SAE 40. If not then the oil is out of viscosity grade and should be changed. As for the TBN they should typically range from about 6 to 10 (10 being better) and should not deplete to about 50% of the original amount.

If you are going to start oil analysis for monitoring your engine, or to go longer oil drains or just want to see what it looks like, then you should send a sample of new (unused) oil in for an analysis. This will give the laboratory a base line of the new oil to compare with any other samples of the used oil.

Let's talk about some of the things that confuse us about oil analysis. Let's say that you just worked on your engine or had someone work on it. If they used silicon sealer, then when you do an oil analysis and silicon shows up. It might not be the dirt that you think it is. This is why you should use the comments section win filling out the analysis form, and tell them that the engine has just been worked on. A good analyst should know that your silicon level is elevated because of the sealant used.

Another concern on some trucks is the copper level. Copper is an additive in some oils but you would not know this unless you asked the Mfg. of the oil or sent a new sample of oil in for analysis. Sometimes copper shows up and makes you think that you have a bearing problem. This is only true if you also have Tin and Lead. Copper, Tin and Lead is an indication of bearing wear. If you only have Copper showing up on your analysis, then you most likely are seeing copper oxides from an oil cooler. This is not a problem at all. You should only be alarmed if you have all three (Copper, Tin and Lead)

I hope that this information helps you understand oil analysis and take better care of your investment.

Sincerely, Kevin

 

Uh ...

 

Well Oilman...It sounds like you have really done your homework on the background of motor oil's. We muchly appreciate all of this information but I still have one question for you.....

What is your opinion on regular VS synthetic oil's and who should be using them?

Does a person stick with the good old fashion regular oil and change it every 3500KM OR should a person change over to a synthetic oil and change every 6000KM?

Regular or synthetic...I am stumped!

I do want the best for my engine but are we really getting that big of a bang out of these synthetic oil's?

 

Oilman...what is LE8530?

LE8530 Sounds like the Mobil1 version of a semi synthetic?

Any thoughts on Pennzoil's new semi synthetic called "Synthetic Blend"??

Thanks again for the feedback!

 

2001,
LE 8530 is manufactured by Lubrication Engineers and is a semi-synthetic 5w-30 if you were to compare it to Mobil-1 for wear and oxidation resistance the numbers are like this.

Mobil-1 wear(12) oxidation resistance (509)
LE 8530 wear (6) oxidation resistance (481)
Valvoline Dura blend Wear=(Fail), O.R.=(166)
Quaker State Wear=(11), O.R.= (157)
Havoline Formula 3 wear=(14), O.R.=(193)

As you can see most oils will have much worse oxidation resistance (higher # is better).

Sorry, no #'s on the Penz your asked about.

Sincerely, Kevin

 

Oil Man, you're ok, I guess but, Muffler Man is cooler.

He has a cape and gold boots.

 

I never was one for a cape, but I've got a black Stetson and boots, if that helps.
Kevin

 

OilMan....

I currently have 7,500KM on my Triton motor and was wondering if I should use a chemical engine flush additive at my next oil change if I decide to go from a conventional oil to a synthetic?

Comments are appreciated!

 

Kevin,

Great info. Periodic analysis is great with any type of oil. To help spot potential problems and so you know exactly what is goin on with your vehicle.

Also note, that analysis can be done on transmissions and rear differential's and just about any other type of fluid you can think of.

Now when you talk about wear numbers, exactly what do they mean. Is this some type of comparative test? I know we differ on test types but at least folks would have an idea of where that number comes from.

Would this also be a good time to bring up by-pass filteration as talked about in the F-D forums. Yes even though we have less capacity keeping the oil clean can make about any oil last considerably longer. Then we get to oils that were designed for extended drain like LE, Amsoil, Royal Purple etc... And these oil will last over 100,000 miles in some cases.

Since most wear in your engine is caused by dirt this is where the best Air and oil filtration comes in.

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Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

Oilman...

Great posts about oil.

But your post about Valv. Durablend with a fail rating in wear scared me.

I use Durablend in my wet-clutch motorcycle in 10W40 because it does not have the EC friction modifiers that can interfere with proper clutch operation. Sure is cheaper than the branded Triumph oil at $50 a gallon.

I like the oil's performance in my bike, so now I'm using it in my Lincoln LS (in 5W30 EC) and planned to use it in my F150 5.4.

I use short drain intervals, usually 1000-1500 miles in the bike, 3000-5000 in the car and truck. Not rough service, but mostly city driving.

Am I screwing up? Valvoline failed a test?



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Greg
'96 Triumph Thunderbird
'99 Ford F150 XLT SC 5.4
'00 Lincoln LS8
Wichita

 

Hi there, Oil Man!

I've got another question for you. I am currently using LE8530 in my vehicles. I've got a '98 F-150 4.6L (the pampered one), a '95 Grand Am Quad 4 (my wife's ride), a '97 Chev. 3500 5.8L work van, and a '92 E-250 5.7L work van. The F-150 doesn't driven every day. The work vans get thrashed pretty well. And the Grand Am is a daily driver. My question is, are there parameters I should use for determining how long my "long drain" intervals should be? As in how often they're driven, conditions, driving style, etc. Or is there a set number of miles or time? I'd appreciate it if you could shed some light on this subject for us.

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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto, 4.10's, Mag-Hytec diff. cover, Magnacharger supercharger, Superchip, Gibson single cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps, Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount, Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries, 285/75R16 Goodyear MT/R's, 16x8 Center Line Hell Cats. Needs one more door.
http://hometown.aol.com/ninetyeightfword

 

Good question 98fword, I can't seem to find in the manual how often (months) you should change your oil, it used to be standard 3000 miles or 3 months. Maybe I'm just missing it in the manual?

BTW, I just changed to Mobil 1 5w30 the other day. I gotta admit I am not totally convinced about synthetic but I had to give it a try. I have not noticed any "smoothing" of the motor as some have claimed and I'm keeping a close eye on my mileage to see if it improves. Atleast I can justify it (to myself)if my mileage improves

Now what happens if I change back to conventional after using synthetic?

[This message has been edited by 2000Lariat (edited 12-06-2000).]

 

2001,
I do not recommend an engine flush when going to a synthetic or back to a petroleum. In your case you have only 7,500 km on your engine, there is notheing to flush. Most flushing oils are solvents that are made to break down oils and sludges. Some of this solvent is left in your engine after you have flushed it. This contaminates your new fresh oil with solvent. If you just have the itch to flush with a solvent, then change your oil after the first 100 miles and go with another oil change to get the solvent out.

msparks,
To answer your question about where do the numbers come from on the wear test. The wear test was an ASTM D-2670 FALEX. The lower the number the better the oil or the lower the wear rate. The other numbers are for oxidation resistance. That test is also an ASTM D-4742 TFOUT and in this test the higher the number the better the oxidation resistance. Your reference to a by-pass filter is great. I'm in favor of the best filtration system possible. If a guy wanted to change his oil on a regular 3,000 mile interval but wondered what about putting a bypass filter system on. My comments here are this, the oil that comes in a new un opened can of oil is filtered to about 20 microns. The distance between your bearings is about 20 microns. Your full flow filter filters to about 30 microns. For the most part there should be nothing in fresh oil that is 20 microns that is just what they filter it to. A bypass filter system like the Amsoil type filters to about 3 microns unless you put it under more pressure then it will be about 10 microns. You should not have this much pressure in your engines unless you have an aftermarket oil pump. Even at that the filtration is much better than the new oil from the bottle. The bypass filter will take most of the wear contaminants out of the engine. The better air filters will keep the dirt out of the engine. If dirt gets into your oil it had to pass the rings and pistons where it has already done some damage. So if you want to use a bypass filter and a better air filter you will surely have less wear in your engine weather you have short oil drains or long oil drains.

Wichita_Greg,
The tests that I have mentioned above are tough tests to pass. An average oil will not pass them. Actually the Valvoline All climate passed with (17) wear and (247)oxidation resistance, and is a much better oil than the Durablend. So if you are stuck on using Valvoline then try the All

Climate.98fword,
There is not any set mileage or time you should change your oil. I would recommend doing an oil analysis at the regular change mileage and then use that to start a trend of analysis to get a feel for the change interval. Everyone drives differend and in different climates with differend engine quality. Sorry for not giving you a number to go buy.

Sincerely, Kevin

 

OilMan: So is that Valvoline All season just their standard oil? That's what I've had in mine for the first 10K miles. I'm debating the synthetic, though I do use it in the Cobra. Where can I find info on the bypass filters?

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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.

1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17

My Home Page

 

Come on you guys, Oil Man ain't real.

A black Stetson and boots, what kind of a costume is that?

At least Transmission Man has his own comic book.