Well my wife’s Navigator just went over 100000 KM so I figured it was time to change the spark plugs. I tried to get our dealership to do it but they were too busy and didn’t seem too interested in doing it. They knew it was a pain in the *** apparantly.

I read all the topics and discussions I could find and decided to use the E3-70 Spark Plugs.

As well why in the hell did FORD use 9/16 spark plugs? Not a single parts place in the city even carries that size so I had to make my own by pulling the rubber O-ring out of another spark plug socket and inserting it into my deep 9/16 socket.

I used sea foam in the gas tank a week before attempting the removal procedure.

After spraying PB Blaster in the holes where the spark plugs sit and letting that sit for an hour I started with the plug closest to the front bumper on the driver’s side and it came out with a little effort but as expected from all the research I had done.

Then the fun began, the next plug came out the same way but was broken and so did the next 2 on the passenger side.
I kind of expected that would happen, but was disappointed, so I added more pb blaster to the driver’s side plugs and let them sit for another 30 minutes.

Well they didn’t turn out much better. All 4 were broken but it found it very strange that 3 of the 4 only the metal came out.

As you can see by the picture I took, there is no rhyme or reason as to how and why the spark plugs broke the way they did.

The only thing I can think off is the driver’s side plugs had cooled down to much compared to the passenger side.

As you can see by the picture I have 3 different problems to deal with and I am not 100% certain on how to deal with each of the different broken plugs.

I have the Lisle tool, but imnot sure it will work for all 3 problems i have.

 

It looks like passenger #2,3 &4 can be removed with it and driver #2. Driver 1,3 &4 are going to have to be pulled out if they will come with a long needle nose pliers or needle nose vice grips (not sure what will reach down in that far in that narrow hole) even if the porcelain and electrode will come out, the ground barrel probably won't. If you can't get anything that you can get a good grip with, you probably have to take something like narrow electrical conduit to slip over the porcelain and break it off flush with the top of the ground barrel, fish it out with a grabber and then get the rest out with the lisle tool. Be sure and make a small hose that will go into the SP hole and tape it to the opening on your shop vac to get any pieces of porcelain out that have broken.
Do a search on this site and in a few days, when your done reading, you'll know more than you ever wanted to about it and it will be a snap (maybe)

 

Well - it's too late now, but I don't think you've read quite enough.

First - Seafoam does squat for carbon, and does more harm than good - you needed to run a couple tanks of Techron, or get a Motorvac treatment from the dealer.

Second - did you break the gas seal on the plugs ever, ever so slightly after you sprayed in the PB Blaster (Fomoco recommends their carb cleaner, btw). If not, that stuff can sit in there forever and not help as it will never wick down to the ground shield to begin softening the buildup. I could not glean this from yer description.

Third - did you do like this feller did - working back & forth in very small increments? https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...y-writeup.html

Fourth - DO NOT use those crap E3's !!! Search for Sam1947's posts on this subject.

*EDIT* - here's one from an Epic thread, lol: https://www.f150online.com/forums/4507454-post148.html

Stick to MC SP-515's (or Champ 7989's if yer a bit more adventurous, lol). Recommend you use new boots. Don't fergit the dielectric,

Code purty much nailed yer extraction options

Remember to change yer oil & filter when yer done. ( dilution from the PB stuff).

Good luck!


MGD

 

Thanks for the info, and for the record i did do tons of research on this issue which probably doesnt help as there are numerous ways that have worked for different people.

I ended up removing them all with the Lisle tool.

The second one from the front on the passenger side wouldn't grab with the puller attachment due to too much ceramic left in the broken end. When I used the pusher tool it actual pushed the broken piece farther down the hole which scared the crap out of me. After using my Dewalt 18v hammer drill to chip out some more ceramic I managed to get a really good grip with the puller tool. Unfortunately the puller tool wouldn't work as the broken plug was sitting lower than I could get the nut on. I saved this plug for the last so I just cut a piece of the puller spacer and pulled it out without any more surprises.

My only advice would be to do 1 side at a time and make sure your engine is warm.

The E3 spark plugs work great and the Nav runs better than it has ever run. I will be installing them in my 07 mustang and Harley next.

 

You used E3's even though they are documented as not working and lasting worth a crap in the 5.4 3V? Good luck.

 

Thanks for your pointless post!

 

Just amplifying on MGD's post, referring to Sam1947's experience. Thanks for YOUR pointless post.

 

Yet another brilliant post. Just because one person had problems means that that must be the law.

If you don't have anything of value to add to this thread don't post just to be an ***!

As I clearly started the E3 plugs are working great and the vehicle is running better than it has ever run.

 

just an FYI, IMHO, E3 is likely building or has licensed Ford to use their design for the MC 515's.....as they look very similar to the E3's.

Running the MC 515's in mine, all is good.

 

WHAT??????

MC 515's are 2 piece plugs, E3's are 1 piece!

Back to the OP: Sam said the E3's ran fine - for a while. Again - good luck.

 

There have been at least 4 members that have tried E3s and had them fail. Just a fact. They don't seem to work much more than 300 to 4000 miles in the Ford modular engines.

 

MC515's are a two piece, welded. The originals were two piece crimped. There is also previous post on here testing the strength, IIRR, both the MC515 & E3 plugs did not break after being twisted with a torque wrench at 200 ft lbs. IIRR, champion broke at under 200 (which is still impressive).

 

So - are you trying to say that E3's are 2 piece welded plugs?

 

Are you saying that the MC 515's are welded? This is the first time I've heard this. Anyone else want to chime in?

HYPO

 

No one has any info??

HYPO