Changed My Spark Plugs Today/ Writeup
#1
01-17-2011, 08:44 PM
Changed My Spark Plugs Today/ Writeup
Well today I decided to give the spark plugs the change they've been wanting. It was done on my 2004 super crew 5.4L Triton with 72,000 Miles. I am very picky and always fill up at ethanol free Conoco/ Phillips 66 Stations. I am only 17, slightly mechanically inclined, and I feel that about anybody could complete this with the right tools and amount of time.
Time- Around 2 hours
Tools- 2 bottle Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner (I used three for extra assurance), 3/8 ratchet,9/16 deep well socket, short, medium, long wobble extensions 3/8, 1/4 ratchet, short and medium extension 1/4, 6 point 7mm socket 1/4 drive, carb cleaner, 10" fuel line, Di- electric compound, Motorcraft SP-507 Plugs, High- temp Nickel Anti-Seize, lisle removal tool if you break some (I never ordered it and I never needed it).
For the last week I have been running Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner that I purchased at Walmart. It may have been overkill, but here is the procedure I used for this. I waited until I got to the red line then put one bottle in and filled it up with around 10-12 gallons, or about a half tank. I repeated this three times as I had heard great results from people who only did it two times. I figured what have I got to lose, 6 bucks is cheaper than 60 for the lisle tool if it comes down to that.
Once the third tank was very close to empty I parked it in my shop after returning from a short trip (Pickup was fully warmed up). I started by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the computer on and removing the three wire bundles and taking the computer box off the truck. Then I removed the computer holder bracket held on by three 10mm bolts.
After that I blew all the dirt off around the COP's (Theres more dirt there than you would think). Then I removed all eight COP's using a 7mm 6 Point socket (7mm 12 point would just spin and in a way round it off). It just took a little wiggling to get them out. I was sure to lay them out, so that each COP went back to the cylinder it came from.
Next thing I did was get a piece of fuel line around 10" I had laying around and I sprayed carb cleaner down into each well holding down on the button for around 1-1.5 seconds. I thought that was plenty as it got it pretty high in there. I didn't pick a brand in particular of cleaner as they are all about the same. If you are really picky (Like me) they sell Chemtool B-12 at walmart and it works pretty good, but if you already have some I wouldn't worry about it.
Now I broke each plug loose around 1/8th to 1/4th of a turn using my 3/8 drive ratchet, 9/16 deep socket, and various wobble extensions then went to the house for around an hour.
When I got back this is the procedure I followed on each plug: Tightened it back to where it was, backed it off around a 1/2 turn, tighten back, back off 1 turn, tighten back, then just kept doing that until it came out. You will feel them as you are backing them out get tighter. To me this was a sign to turn around and tighten them back down and repeat. It seemed as though carbon was building up and needed to be reset in a way. After the initial break open after letting each plug soak for an hour I would say I spent about 45 seconds working each plug. I removed each one from the whole with a magnet pen I have. Any magnet thing you have for like getting dropped parts should work. Everyone of them came out. A couple squeaked on the way out, but when you have the ratchet in your hands its pretty easy to tell if they are breaking or not.
On the re-assembly I coated the lower shank with some Nickel Anti-Seize I had laying around. Be sure to not get any on the electrode end. I lowered each plug into their holes with the same magnet pen I used to get the old ones out with. I then took my extensions and ran every plug down the threads until they were snug and used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and torqued everyone of them down to 27 ft. lbs.
The next thing I did was take Di-electric Silicone Compound and I put a little on the bottom of each COP where it contacts the top of the plug and re-installed each one of them into the hole and onto the plug. I applied a little anti seize to the thread of the bolts that hold on the COP's when I reinstalled them. Be sure not to strip them from over tightening. The next step is to plug each COP harness back in.
The last step is just to reinstall the computer mount, computer, and plug the bundles back in.
Here's a picture of the plugs I took out.
And one just for fun.
I would not have felt comfortable paying ford or any mechanic I know over 100 dollars labor to do this knowing how easy it is now. I cannot believe most charge upwards of 400 to do this either! I would say if you have the time and the minimal tools required to go right at it and get it done! -Brent
Time- Around 2 hours
Tools- 2 bottle Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner (I used three for extra assurance), 3/8 ratchet,9/16 deep well socket, short, medium, long wobble extensions 3/8, 1/4 ratchet, short and medium extension 1/4, 6 point 7mm socket 1/4 drive, carb cleaner, 10" fuel line, Di- electric compound, Motorcraft SP-507 Plugs, High- temp Nickel Anti-Seize, lisle removal tool if you break some (I never ordered it and I never needed it).
For the last week I have been running Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner that I purchased at Walmart. It may have been overkill, but here is the procedure I used for this. I waited until I got to the red line then put one bottle in and filled it up with around 10-12 gallons, or about a half tank. I repeated this three times as I had heard great results from people who only did it two times. I figured what have I got to lose, 6 bucks is cheaper than 60 for the lisle tool if it comes down to that.
Once the third tank was very close to empty I parked it in my shop after returning from a short trip (Pickup was fully warmed up). I started by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the computer on and removing the three wire bundles and taking the computer box off the truck. Then I removed the computer holder bracket held on by three 10mm bolts.
After that I blew all the dirt off around the COP's (Theres more dirt there than you would think). Then I removed all eight COP's using a 7mm 6 Point socket (7mm 12 point would just spin and in a way round it off). It just took a little wiggling to get them out. I was sure to lay them out, so that each COP went back to the cylinder it came from.
Next thing I did was get a piece of fuel line around 10" I had laying around and I sprayed carb cleaner down into each well holding down on the button for around 1-1.5 seconds. I thought that was plenty as it got it pretty high in there. I didn't pick a brand in particular of cleaner as they are all about the same. If you are really picky (Like me) they sell Chemtool B-12 at walmart and it works pretty good, but if you already have some I wouldn't worry about it.
Now I broke each plug loose around 1/8th to 1/4th of a turn using my 3/8 drive ratchet, 9/16 deep socket, and various wobble extensions then went to the house for around an hour.
When I got back this is the procedure I followed on each plug: Tightened it back to where it was, backed it off around a 1/2 turn, tighten back, back off 1 turn, tighten back, then just kept doing that until it came out. You will feel them as you are backing them out get tighter. To me this was a sign to turn around and tighten them back down and repeat. It seemed as though carbon was building up and needed to be reset in a way. After the initial break open after letting each plug soak for an hour I would say I spent about 45 seconds working each plug. I removed each one from the whole with a magnet pen I have. Any magnet thing you have for like getting dropped parts should work. Everyone of them came out. A couple squeaked on the way out, but when you have the ratchet in your hands its pretty easy to tell if they are breaking or not.
On the re-assembly I coated the lower shank with some Nickel Anti-Seize I had laying around. Be sure to not get any on the electrode end. I lowered each plug into their holes with the same magnet pen I used to get the old ones out with. I then took my extensions and ran every plug down the threads until they were snug and used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and torqued everyone of them down to 27 ft. lbs.
The next thing I did was take Di-electric Silicone Compound and I put a little on the bottom of each COP where it contacts the top of the plug and re-installed each one of them into the hole and onto the plug. I applied a little anti seize to the thread of the bolts that hold on the COP's when I reinstalled them. Be sure not to strip them from over tightening. The next step is to plug each COP harness back in.
The last step is just to reinstall the computer mount, computer, and plug the bundles back in.
Here's a picture of the plugs I took out.
And one just for fun.
I would not have felt comfortable paying ford or any mechanic I know over 100 dollars labor to do this knowing how easy it is now. I cannot believe most charge upwards of 400 to do this either! I would say if you have the time and the minimal tools required to go right at it and get it done! -Brent
#2
01-17-2011, 08:51 PM
Well today I decided to give the spark plugs the change they've been wanting. It was done on my 2004 super crew 5.4L Triton with 72,000 Miles. I am very picky and always fill up at ethanol free Conoco/ Phillips 66 Stations. I am only 17, slightly mechanically inclined, and I feel that about anybody could complete this with the right tools and amount of time.
Time- Around 2 hours
Tools- 2 bottle Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner (I used three for extra assurance), 3/8 ratchet,9/16 deep well socket, short, medium, long wobble extensions 3/8, 1/4 ratchet, short and medium extension 1/4, 6 point 7mm socket 1/4 drive, carb cleaner, 10" fuel line, Di- electric compound, Motorcraft SP-507 Plugs, High- temp Nickel Anti-Seize, lisle removal tool if you break some (I never ordered it and I never needed it).
For the last week I have been running Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner that I purchased at Walmart. It may have been overkill, but here is the procedure I used for this. I waited until I got to the red line then put one bottle in and filled it up with around 10-12 gallons, or about a half tank. I repeated this three times as I had heard great results from people who only did it two times. I figured what have I got to lose, 6 bucks is cheaper than 60 for the lisle tool if it comes down to that.
Once the third tank was very close to empty I parked it in my shop after returning from a short trip (Pickup was fully warmed up). I started by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the computer on and removing the three wire bundles and taking the computer box off the truck. Then I removed the computer holder bracket held on by three 10mm bolts.
After that I blew all the dirt off around the COP's (Theres more dirt there than you would think). Then I removed all eight COP's using a 7mm 6 Point socket (7mm 12 point would just spin and in a way round it off). It just took a little wiggling to get them out. I was sure to lay them out, so that each COP went back to the cylinder it came from.
Next thing I did was get a piece of fuel line around 10" I had laying around and I sprayed carb cleaner down into each well holding down on the button for around 1-1.5 seconds. I thought that was plenty as it got it pretty high in there. I didn't pick a brand in particular of cleaner as they are all about the same. If you are really picky (Like me) they sell Chemtool B-12 at walmart and it works pretty good, but if you already have some I wouldn't worry about it.
Now I broke each plug loose around 1/8th to 1/4th of a turn using my 3/8 drive ratchet, 9/16 deep socket, and various wobble extensions then went to the house for around an hour.
When I got back this is the procedure I followed on each plug: Tightened it back to where it was, backed it off around a 1/2 turn, tighten back, back off 1 turn, tighten back, then just kept doing that until it came out. You will feel them as you are backing them out get tighter. To me this was a sign to turn around and tighten them back down and repeat. It seemed as though carbon was building up and needed to be reset in a way. After the initial break open after letting each plug soak for an hour I would say I spent about 45 seconds working each plug. I removed each one from the whole with a magnet pen I have. Any magnet thing you have for like getting dropped parts should work. Everyone of them came out. A couple squeaked on the way out, but when you have the ratchet in your hands its pretty easy to tell if they are breaking or not.
On the re-assembly I coated the lower shank with some Nickel Anti-Seize I had laying around. Be sure to not get any on the electrode end. I lowered each plug into their holes with the same magnet pen I used to get the old ones out with. I then took my extensions and ran every plug down the threads until they were snug and used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and torqued everyone of them down to 27 ft. lbs.
The next thing I did was take Di-electric Silicone Compound and I put a little on the bottom of each COP where it contacts the top of the plug and re-installed each one of them into the hole and onto the plug. I applied a little anti seize to the thread of the bolts that hold on the COP's when I reinstalled them. Be sure not to strip them from over tightening. The next step is to plug each COP harness back in.
The last step is just to reinstall the computer mount, computer, and plug the bundles back in.
Here's a picture of the plugs I took out.
And one just for fun.
I would not have felt comfortable paying ford or any mechanic I know over 100 dollars labor to do this knowing how easy it is now. I cannot believe most charge upwards of 400 to do this either! I would say if you have the time and the minimal tools required to go right at it and get it done! -Brent
Time- Around 2 hours
Tools- 2 bottle Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner (I used three for extra assurance), 3/8 ratchet,9/16 deep well socket, short, medium, long wobble extensions 3/8, 1/4 ratchet, short and medium extension 1/4, 6 point 7mm socket 1/4 drive, carb cleaner, 10" fuel line, Di- electric compound, Motorcraft SP-507 Plugs, High- temp Nickel Anti-Seize, lisle removal tool if you break some (I never ordered it and I never needed it).
For the last week I have been running Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner that I purchased at Walmart. It may have been overkill, but here is the procedure I used for this. I waited until I got to the red line then put one bottle in and filled it up with around 10-12 gallons, or about a half tank. I repeated this three times as I had heard great results from people who only did it two times. I figured what have I got to lose, 6 bucks is cheaper than 60 for the lisle tool if it comes down to that.
Once the third tank was very close to empty I parked it in my shop after returning from a short trip (Pickup was fully warmed up). I started by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the computer on and removing the three wire bundles and taking the computer box off the truck. Then I removed the computer holder bracket held on by three 10mm bolts.
After that I blew all the dirt off around the COP's (Theres more dirt there than you would think). Then I removed all eight COP's using a 7mm 6 Point socket (7mm 12 point would just spin and in a way round it off). It just took a little wiggling to get them out. I was sure to lay them out, so that each COP went back to the cylinder it came from.
Next thing I did was get a piece of fuel line around 10" I had laying around and I sprayed carb cleaner down into each well holding down on the button for around 1-1.5 seconds. I thought that was plenty as it got it pretty high in there. I didn't pick a brand in particular of cleaner as they are all about the same. If you are really picky (Like me) they sell Chemtool B-12 at walmart and it works pretty good, but if you already have some I wouldn't worry about it.
Now I broke each plug loose around 1/8th to 1/4th of a turn using my 3/8 drive ratchet, 9/16 deep socket, and various wobble extensions then went to the house for around an hour.
When I got back this is the procedure I followed on each plug: Tightened it back to where it was, backed it off around a 1/2 turn, tighten back, back off 1 turn, tighten back, then just kept doing that until it came out. You will feel them as you are backing them out get tighter. To me this was a sign to turn around and tighten them back down and repeat. It seemed as though carbon was building up and needed to be reset in a way. After the initial break open after letting each plug soak for an hour I would say I spent about 45 seconds working each plug. I removed each one from the whole with a magnet pen I have. Any magnet thing you have for like getting dropped parts should work. Everyone of them came out. A couple squeaked on the way out, but when you have the ratchet in your hands its pretty easy to tell if they are breaking or not.
On the re-assembly I coated the lower shank with some Nickel Anti-Seize I had laying around. Be sure to not get any on the electrode end. I lowered each plug into their holes with the same magnet pen I used to get the old ones out with. I then took my extensions and ran every plug down the threads until they were snug and used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and torqued everyone of them down to 27 ft. lbs.
The next thing I did was take Di-electric Silicone Compound and I put a little on the bottom of each COP where it contacts the top of the plug and re-installed each one of them into the hole and onto the plug. I applied a little anti seize to the thread of the bolts that hold on the COP's when I reinstalled them. Be sure not to strip them from over tightening. The next step is to plug each COP harness back in.
The last step is just to reinstall the computer mount, computer, and plug the bundles back in.
Here's a picture of the plugs I took out.
And one just for fun.
I would not have felt comfortable paying ford or any mechanic I know over 100 dollars labor to do this knowing how easy it is now. I cannot believe most charge upwards of 400 to do this either! I would say if you have the time and the minimal tools required to go right at it and get it done! -Brent
Now - go back to Wally Mart, buy some MC 5w-20 and a fresh FL-820S, and go change yer oil - it's very likely diluted with solvent.
MGD
#3
01-17-2011, 08:53 PM
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01-17-2011, 08:54 PM
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01-17-2011, 08:56 PM
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#6
01-17-2011, 08:58 PM
This is my next maintenance job. So far I've had the tranny flushed and filled, rear end fluid changed, air filter changed, changed the fuel filter Saturday (gas looked like mud) and the plugs will be next. I may change the radiator fluid sometime soon. I've done all this within the last 2K miles. She has 60K on the clock, so it's about time.
Glad to hear you took your time. You remind me of myself by being so "picky". Sometimes it pays off with a job well done. Thanks for the post.
Glad to hear you took your time. You remind me of myself by being so "picky". Sometimes it pays off with a job well done. Thanks for the post.
#7
01-17-2011, 09:00 PM
Yeah that's why I would probably recommend just doing them this way instead of the impact method. It may work for some, but I feel I probably would have broken at least 3 or 4 had I not done it this way and kept them to a light torque coming out.
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#11
01-17-2011, 09:19 PM
Thanks guys! Also MGD, when I started my pickup up the first time I did notice that it started very quickly and shot out some white smoke. Do you think its possible it burnt off what ever little solvent got down in there to justify changing the oil? I just did it less than 500 miles ago..
#12
01-17-2011, 09:21 PM
Haha farming has its benifits! But trust me, over the years I've spent quite abit of money on tools myself along with using some of my dads tools hes had all his life...
#13
01-17-2011, 09:24 PM
Thanks guys! Also MGD, when I started my pickup up the first time I did notice that it started very quickly and shot out some white smoke. Do you think its possible it burnt off what ever little solvent got down in there to justify changing the oil? I just did it less than 500 miles ago..
Yer *probably* okay, but for the minimal cost (under $20), it's a safe bet. But - that's just me, okay?
This is why I always advocate doing this just prior to the next scheduled oil change.
Next time !
You've motivated some new friends with this thread!
BTW - beautiful truck!
MGD
#14
01-17-2011, 09:52 PM
#15
01-17-2011, 10:27 PM
Alright.. I'll probably just go ahead and wait. Wish I would have known about that though! And thanks for the compliments man!
Trying to motivate people and show really how easy it is to do with the right tools and preparation was my whole purpose behind writing this. I'm glad to help!
Trying to motivate people and show really how easy it is to do with the right tools and preparation was my whole purpose behind writing this. I'm glad to help!