4.6 to 5.4 swap in progress
So everything is deattached and ready to go, i am waiting on help, so tomorrow is when i get it done. I am just waiting on that question, if i need to drop the transfer case or not. I see the shaft that goes into the tcase extends past the rear of the trani so it seems like the trans needs to be pulled forward then dropped straight down. Any suggestions?
With the engine out, remove old transmission and install new transmission. Unfortunately you will need to unbolt the t-case to do this. But there is nothing holding the t-case in place except the fact that it is bolted to the transmission. If you remove the exhaust you can lower the transmission and t- case as a unit because the engine is out of the way.
Here is what I would do. Lift the truck on jack stands so there is enough room to slide the transmission under the frame while it is still on the floor jack. Then run a ratchet strap under the transmission just behind the bellhousing and hook the ends to the frame so I can ratchet the tranny up and down. Pull the engine. Then remove the exhaust, the torsion bar support and the porkchops. Leave the t-bars attached to the lower a-arms. Strap a floor jack to the transmission just at the point of balance somewhere ahead of the tranny crossmember. Remove both driveshafts. Remove the transmission crossmember while supporting the tranny/t-case with the jack. Lower the transmission to the floor and slide it out from under the truck. Remove the t-case and bolt it up to the new transmission and reverse the steps for removal. I did not go into all of the detail required to R&R the tranny like umplug the harness etc.. You would have to do that anyway. With the new transmission old t-case back in place install the new engine.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
PS. you cannot install the starter unless the transmission is bolted to the engine. Long tube headers will make engine install very difficult is they are attached prior to engine install.
Jean Marc Chartier
Here is what I would do. Lift the truck on jack stands so there is enough room to slide the transmission under the frame while it is still on the floor jack. Then run a ratchet strap under the transmission just behind the bellhousing and hook the ends to the frame so I can ratchet the tranny up and down. Pull the engine. Then remove the exhaust, the torsion bar support and the porkchops. Leave the t-bars attached to the lower a-arms. Strap a floor jack to the transmission just at the point of balance somewhere ahead of the tranny crossmember. Remove both driveshafts. Remove the transmission crossmember while supporting the tranny/t-case with the jack. Lower the transmission to the floor and slide it out from under the truck. Remove the t-case and bolt it up to the new transmission and reverse the steps for removal. I did not go into all of the detail required to R&R the tranny like umplug the harness etc.. You would have to do that anyway. With the new transmission old t-case back in place install the new engine.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
PS. you cannot install the starter unless the transmission is bolted to the engine. Long tube headers will make engine install very difficult is they are attached prior to engine install.
Jean Marc Chartier
Yea I was just looking at that (Service DVD) - Says to remove the T-case first.
Nice step by step JMC ... - There yuh go FRod , print it out and hang from the brim of your hat.
Oh , you might spear a couple holes thru the paper so u can see.
Good Luck man.
Nice step by step JMC ... - There yuh go FRod , print it out and hang from the brim of your hat.
Oh , you might spear a couple holes thru the paper so u can see.

Good Luck man.
Last edited by jbrew; Nov 1, 2008 at 05:37 AM.
wow, this is a never ending processes. Alright, i will do that. BUT the problem with that is i got custom true duals and i wouldnt be able to get the exhaust out of the way unless i cut it :-( but i guess the muffer shop can fix that...dang! more money...
Your doin headers anyway - slice and dice - Shoot, pull the motor first and you can get the exhaust out of there in one piece; if you cut just before the muffler. - er's... That's what I did with the engine and trans still in her. - Only welds I had to do under the truck was at the headers.
Last edited by jbrew; Nov 1, 2008 at 05:45 AM.
Seems like a lot of work to gain a bit of power....
I kind of thought about sticking a Lightning engine in my 2004 Heritage and keeping the stock badging just to scare the crap out of people but too much effort required.
Looks like a fun tinker job.
I kind of thought about sticking a Lightning engine in my 2004 Heritage and keeping the stock badging just to scare the crap out of people but too much effort required.
Looks like a fun tinker job.
There is a rear crossmember that is riveted to the frame just behind the t-case.
To remove the t-case with this crossmember in place requires turning and twisting the t-case. I cut the rivets and used stainless nuts & bolts to put it back. I can now remove the tranny/t-case as a unit when a clutch or transmission goes south. With the exhaust in the way you may need to take the t-case off because of this. I would remove the exhaust if at all possible. Because this cross member is no longer in the way I can take mine off as one piece. My exhaust exits in front of the rear wheels. You must have a joint somewhere before the mufflers that you could disassemble and drop the front part that goes under the transmission?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
To remove the t-case with this crossmember in place requires turning and twisting the t-case. I cut the rivets and used stainless nuts & bolts to put it back. I can now remove the tranny/t-case as a unit when a clutch or transmission goes south. With the exhaust in the way you may need to take the t-case off because of this. I would remove the exhaust if at all possible. Because this cross member is no longer in the way I can take mine off as one piece. My exhaust exits in front of the rear wheels. You must have a joint somewhere before the mufflers that you could disassemble and drop the front part that goes under the transmission?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
You think that starter is fun in an F150? Try getting it out of a Crown Vic or T-Bird. Especially when the top bolt decides to take its threads out with it...I have permanent mental anguish from that deal.
i have no mufflers, just cats, and i cut them off. This is whats left is this part of the muffler and its in my way.

and is this the crossmember you were saying cut the rivets out of vecause its in the way?

and is this the crossmember you were saying cut the rivets out of vecause its in the way?
Uh, its not a little gain buddy, my 4.6 was so warn out it lost a TON of compression im sure...It didnt have crap for power but to get goin and to stop. I am gaining ALOT of horsepower with this swap. I was probably at a mear 215 horse WITH addons, i will hopefully be sitting at 295 after all add ons are placed exhaust is finished and a good tunen. So this is not worth 80 horse and a damn near new engine and trani? I THINK NOT! HAHA! i have been looking forward to this for about 6 months, it has become a priority
Last edited by FRod; Nov 1, 2008 at 08:21 PM.



